ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Go to 4crawler for this one, Boosted. He deleted his VSV in the rear(not sure on the front.... maybe he still has AC, can't remember, lol)... and he used the freed up vacuum ports for Vacuum Gauge, etc. The AC VSV one would be 2 freed up vacuum lines. The Rear VSV for the FPR..... that has 2 lines as I remember, .... so you'd route the one feeding the VSV to the FPR, directly, deleting that VSV on the Valve cover, as well as the AC VSV if you wanted. Hit up 4Crawlers pages on this.... he's got quite the write up.

PS> No one worth anything will call you retarded....and if they do, who needs em, right? lol. BTW, I personally chose to keep the FPR VSV as a couple other Guru's told me it was part of the EFI-ECU relationship and controlled Hot Soak and better controlled the regulation of fuel pressure via the regulator...... I still don't know if that thing is needed or not, lol..... and Roger(4crawler) is an electronics and otherwise "GURU".... so I'm IN NO WAY saying he's wrong! lol. Plus, actually..... he has a Vacuum gauge now because of his deletion! lol. You could get that from deleting the AC VSV alone, I believe.

PSS> Far as deleting anything else.... most of it is EGR related, aside from the power steering pumps 2 hoses. Not sure what TX is like with that type of deletion/smog check/inspection, etc. >????

87 'runner boosted

ha, wonderful thing about texas is that unless youre in a semi....nobody cares ill hit up 4crawler and see what he has done. Thanks again

87 'runner boosted

Alright guys. I know I havent been on in awhile, but good excuse....IVE BEEN DROPPING THE ENGINE IN!!! First thing I learned from this experience in the "reassembly" portion of it....TAG TAG TAG. If anyone else out there is doing a 22re swap/rebuild, take my advice and tag/label every freaking thing and take a butt load of pictures...or else youre stuck in the position I am.

First off, here is some yota porn :

























Now here are my problems :

1 ) vacuum lines - besides the fact that im deleting a bunch of them (which is confusing enough as it is), I didnt mark any of them and have no clue where any of them go. I have an FSM and figured all the info I'd need to assemble this thing would be in there....WRONG! I am having problems identifying what is/isnt EGR related so I can get rid of it.

2 ) I have two electrical connectors that are open, and I have no clue where they go. One of them is in the same line as the Injector connectors and it looks just like the injector connectors, but there are 5, and this is the only one that had different wire colours than the others.



3 ) Here is the other connector, its attached to a really long wire and it may run under the intake manifold to something in the back, but I cant determine what.





4 ) I have tried starting it (without rad and all that installed, just in case I have to pull anything back out), I just want to see if the thing will start and.....NOTHING. I had my sis turn the key forward while I listened to the fuel tank....and nothing is going on in there...I dont know about the yota system, but I know on my old chev, when the key was turned forward, the electric fuel pump would prime the system to start....

If anyone has any info or help on this matter, it would be greatly appreciated. My buddy is out of town until monday, and then im afoot if I dont have this sucker running...starting to trip out a little bit. Thanks again for all yalls help in advance!!!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

First connector ....not sure. What year is this again? 87??? Hmmm, It sure looks like an injector wire to me. Your Cold Start Injector should be Black... But is this harness you have in there from the Turbo? Maybe that's what it is?

Far as the second pick.....KNOCK SENSOR, NO DOUBT in my mind! reach under there and pop that sucker in! lol

Far as fuel pump engagement... Well, did you reconnect the AFM? If not, it WILL NOT start. Also, the C.O.R. controls fuel pump action related to "IGN key on/STA"... But I doubt you've been behind the glove box, tinkering with that thing, lol. Hmmm, not sure what that first connector is. Lemme think on it.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> I went over this stuff in my build thread and many other guys threads, many times. ... Including video. (regarding the EGR and other vacuum lines location). did you leave the BVSV in and are just going to not plug anything into it? (it's in the front of the intake, mounted vertically, 2 hoses go to it, should be above the CTsensor and CSI time switch. You can delete those two, I would imagine. Might wanna ask Roger.

Far as the rest of them... most of the lines on the vacuum rail behind the intake/runs along head/ are EGR related.... in fact, I think all of them are. The FPR, AC, Power Steering, Cruise Control... all those lines plug right into the Plenum. Even the EVAP CAN doesn't connect to it... It just runs off the throttle body(last to left) and runs alllllll the way back along the plenum, then over to the EVAP CANISTER. Between the modulator and EGR, ...yep, I think that's all running off the vacuum rail. The last two in front run off the rail to the BVSV. The next from front to back... I'd have to get pics up for ya. Lemme look on Youtube.

87 'runner boosted

Where is the knock sensor located??? under the intake? Ill do some searching. And I have no idea if this is a turbo harness or not...it very well could be...freaking hate PO's that dont know what they are doing (ha, I say that and I cant get my engine running....lol). And ya, I wasnt messing with the COR at all...cant imagine that would be the problem. Knock sensor wouldnt keep it from starting though I wouldnt think??? And the AFM i didnt disconnect, just the intake pipe, but its on there right now when I am trying to start it. Im at a loss...freaking confused and really kickin myself in the @$$ for knock marking EVERYTHING while disassembling. Sucks to be me right now...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Maybe this one from a while back will help? >>>

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'll get you a pic of the knock location, bud... I know I have one, no worries... BRB, lemme look.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

See the yeller sucker in this pic? Basically, it's right to the right of the fuel filter mounting bracket...... Take a lookie>>> lol>>>>

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

You musta crashed out... I was hoping to hear back from ya that "IT'S RUNNING!" lol..

BTW, I meant to mention.... sometimes, if you've just slapped in a new motor... it's taken me up to 40 cranks on the starter to get it running/build up pressure, even with a new pump, clean lines, etc. Not sure that the knock sensor being unhooked would stop it from starting.... doubt it... dont' think so. Might throw a code right off, but other than that, should be ok to start. Better to have it hooked up though.

PS> Tried to look at every pic of yours...to see if the knock was installed in yours... But that K&N is in the way. lol.

87 'runner boosted

Ha, ya, I went to bed and beat my brains out all night trying to think of the possibilities, and all night all I figured out was....ENDLESS. So many things that could cause it to not start...thing is though...when the key is initially turned to "on" before starting, you should hear the fuel pump cycle to prime the system (or at least I thought...) which mine doesnt. I talked to some of the guys at the shop this morning and they suggested checking a relay that is supposed to cut the fuel pump off in the event of an accident. They were telling me that maybe that relay had "reset" or something and not allowing power to get to the fuel pump. Not sure about all that...im going to be checking all my fuses/relays and what not tonight and see if maybe something blew while connecting the battery or something...who knows. at a loss right now and getting really stressed out as my buddy is going to be here on monday to get his car back so ill be afoot...I guess all I can do is all I can do though...Cant be anything difficult (i wouldlnt imagine). But hey, while im thinking about it...wouldnt the ecm need some kind of sensor for timing to know when to inject fuel and what not??? I wonder if thats the other sensor (other than the knock sensor) connector that I have left over maybe??

87 'runner boosted

and ya, i know exactly which sensor youre talking about. Ill get it connected tonight.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey bud, .... man, sorry on the 'afoot' possibilities! Been there, ..... many times..... SUX! lol.... Don't worry too much, ... I can promise you this, ... IT DOESN'T HELP! IN FACT.... yep, it definitely makes it harder to focus on a good P.O.E. and checklist, ya know?

Far as the "sensor telling the ECM...(ECU) what to do" ... ??? Ok, as I understand these fairly rudimentary systems..... I believe the 'Signal' to 'Injector pulse' is regulated simply by the rotation of the distributor(Can't remember, off hand, exactly how.... think via signal through the Pick-up coil, Boosted).... YOu know, the Crank turns the chain, the chain turns the Cam, the Cam gear turns the Dizzy, the dizzy then, accordingly, 'Distributes' spark, the contacts in the dizzy tell the ECU when to fire either the No.10 or No.20 pins???? Maybe I'm wrong, maybe there's a sensor I don't know about.... But there's not any coil packs on these... nothing more advanced that goes with OBD2... so I just don't think so.

Far as an "Accident/Fuel Cut Off"... ? Yeah, ....um, when they show you/explain where that is in the FSM, or point it out to you, etc., ... could you let me know? I'M NOT being a smart ass.... that's something I had no idea existed on an OBD1 System with simultaneous injection. Now, ... I DO know of the "BRAKE System Fuel Cut"... which cuts the fuel to the injectors in waves if you have a foot on the brake while the RPM is over 1000RPM. IIRC, ... I think there's a couple threads, maybe from WAY back when I read em, that people had a faulty brake/fuel cut.... something to do with the brake pedal needing adjustment?

Most common are things like;

AFM not plugged in, Coil Connector not plugged in, Dizzy plug connector not plugged in, C.O.R...... I'm not sure on that loose connector... let me look around on mine. Need to see one in person, ya know? lol.

87 'runner boosted

First off : Chef, you need to be put on payroll...cant say enough about you and the help you have been. You truly are a "Chef" in the "Yota" world.

As stated above, these are all things that people were suggesting, and im sure none of them have even owned a yota, much less worked on them, so, i have taken those suggestions with a grain of salt.

Im going to take some contact cleaner "a.k.a. starting fluid" home with me tonight and see if i can bust it off with that (thanks to a handy dandy snorkel, all i need is myself to do this ). Hoping to go it starts so I know my problem then lies with fueling which shouldnt be too hard to figure out...knock on wood.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well shucks, ...lol. thanks man..... I just know how it was to need help and get so much.... and I know how it feels to need it and EVERYONE IS ON VACATION! lol. (heck, weekends on here are like that, WERE like that for me, anyway)> .....


Isn't this a brand new rebuild? Be careful with the ether, ok? Things is tight in there, ya know mon? lol. But yes, it should tell ya, IF it tries to fire up but wont.

Listen in the glove box area as you turn the key over, BUT NOT QUITE START the rig.... You should hear a decent 'CLICK' in the glove/to the right of glove/ area. That's the COR you're listening for. If you turn it over, while sitting or leaning in from the pass. side... then you can hear much more clearly what I'm speaking of. If you hear nothing, something's wrong.

Don't be mad when I ask this... many have experienced it..... Did you possible unplug the ECU or 15A fuse while clearing codes or something, ... maybe just forgotededed? lol.

87 'runner boosted

ya, ill be careful with it for sure. I know not to use too much on them. and nah, i didnt unplug the ecu or take any fuses out, just d/c the battery...

87 'runner boosted

and about the COR, should it click continuously while trying to start?? or just once and then stop?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

It depends on the clicking, Boosted. When you turn the key from on to STA, but not quite start... it makes a 'click'... but at times, when I've almost committed to turn the key on, then backed off, then forward a lil... I've heard it "click-ck-ck-ck" really rapidly, ...you know, like an injector pulse, but more erratic.

This is why I said, "Be near the glove, leaning in through the open pass. door, ...reach over and turn the key, mess with it. BTW, you'll hear the Fuel pump engage much more clearly from there as well. You could also have someone down there by the FPump, ...listening as you mess with the key/Push in the AFM door w/key on, etc., ya know?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> You can also lift up the rear/pass seat... MUCH easier to hear the fuel pump kicking in from there, than through the seat, ya knowskie?

87 'runner boosted

Heard that man. Now, if there is no clicking, first off i guess i should check and make sure im getting 12 volts to the COR. if im not getting 12 volts...i guess im missing a fuse/connection somewhere to power that sucker up huh?