I have 3 inches. And yeah I just put it in a vice. It dosent make of to thin. The inside diameter is like 11.86mm and the input shaft is right around 12.00mm depending on how much ware it has. I didn't hard a 12.00mm bit it ended up being 12.34mm when I www done so I stuffed some high tack in it so it wouldn't move around to much.

 

Oh man a 93 ls just came in the shop I wanna start pulling parts off. This thing is in mint condition. All the plastic covers on the engine are in one price. I want.

Oh an RBX I cant do that frame mode as easy as that guy did. My runner has the coiled rewrite with the four link and the upper links mount to the cross beam over the tank. I could do it I think if I raise the perches on the tubes and it shouldn't mess with Tue suspension geometry.

 

^^^ I did not know that. You're creative, I'm sure you will find a solution.

Cheers

 

Ok, shaggy two questions for you.

1. I put the sleeve on the the end of the output shaft on my transmission. It slips on about 3/4 of the way up then stops where the old pilot bearing wear marks end. Did you have to drill your cap so it would slip all the way up, or did you stop where the grove was? It is about 2 cm from going all the way and KS racings web site says that the output shaft on R150 tranny's is about 2 cm too short? Just want it to fit the first time.

2. I put the clutch kit on and the bell housing on. I find that when I put the clutch fork in the slave is about 3/4" too far out. Did you just trim the bell housing where the slave bolts too? I need to cut it so the slave fits, just scares me as i paid so much for this thing and I don't want to screw it up.

 

yeah i was pretty worried about that. but yes i did cut some off. ill post a pic tonight after work of how much i took off. and with the 3vz fork the pivot is wrong. 4.0 used washers to space the ball out. im going to try a 5vz throwout bearing first but may end up doing the same as he did. but you have to be very carefull about it as it can really throw the clutch travel out. so i put the stock 3vz clutch in for now to trail run it. ill let you know. as of now im hung up on the wiring right now. every time i try to work on it its been after work, and when you stand around all day the ambition is sucked right out of you. so thursday is my day off and im gonna go in and work on it all day. fingers crossed i get it all done.

and as for the sleave it wouldnt even go on my inputshaft. maybe i got a defective one. but i dreilled it out all the way.

 

I took a dead blow hammer and pounded the spacer onto my input shaft. It only took a couple light blows.

 

it wouldnt even go on my inputshaft.

 

after i cut it off i had to run a tap into it as the chunck that was cut off contains most of the threads.


and here is some of the stuff i have been up to i took the nipple out of the front water cross over. i dont know if the older models had it. the 93ls that came into the shop had the coolant tank on the drivers side. well my tank was on the pasangers side and there was a bleader hose that went to the tank. i heated the housing up and pulled it out. then drilled the hole out and tapped it. then put some thread sealer on it and put a bolt in it.





i also got a 4.7 left header from a guy at toyota i worked with at toyota. has the typical 4.7 issue. nothing a welder wont fix.


also pulled the front diff apart so i can get rid of that ADD no i only have to go pick up a new tube and an inner seal.

and now to try and work on my wiring. when i get a chance ill put a picture of my wiring up.

 

ok so here is how i am doing my wiring set up.

i spliced II1 and II2 from the lexus bulb head harness to IH1 and IH2 of the 3vz engine harness. so there will just be in intermediate harness so its all plug and play after i get it all done. dont have to worry about taking it apart later on down the road.

 

I like what you did with the wiring. When I re-do mine, I will be doing the same thing.



I did have a coolant line on my 94' SC engine like yours, but I just capped it.

 

I'm gonna plug it up next year when I get my welder. I wish I had 700 to drop on it right now but its so low lately. I only pulled 3.1 today and 2.8 of it was a carry over from 3weeks ago.

 

How long were you on the floor? 3.1? Damn! That's gotta be hard tokeep yourself fed with.

Flatrate sucks ass about this time of year.

 

I was here all day. And the sad part is I pull from 2 car lines for work. Yeah and gas price isn't helping anything either.


Well I'm working on ma truck right now I got the fuel line hooked up I moved the inlet to the passenger side rail and the regulator to the drivers rail. Pulled the tranny twice. But I got the new throw out bearing in. Very much better. But I did have to cut more off the bell where the slave mounts to it and redrill the holes and move the slave. But the fork is sitting right where it should be now. I'll post some pictures when I get home

 

k so here is the new release bearing i put in and it works like a charm.

i had to cut some more off the bell and redrill the holes o move the slave.


and for the fuel line i took the rails off. the passanger side has a wider bit where an o-ring sits in for the regulator. so i just drilled the drivers side aout a little bit and rounded the edge off .




then made a little piece of line from the line i cut off the lexus and put a union on it and put it in the truck. looks ust like i knew what i was doing.




now i jsut have to run a rubber line to the return rather then haveing to make a hard line.

 

I am looking at the coolant line you capped a few posts back, where did that coolant line go to? I have the line, and think I will just run it for now. I don't really want to pull the housing to cap it. So you must have swaped the fuel rail on the passanger side front to back. I looked at mine and don't think I am going to bother swaping stuff around, I will just have a custom line built.

 

that coolant hose runs to the expansion tank. so there is gonna be pressure behink it. so i dont think you can run it to the cooling system on the runner. you may try capping it off like dunkin did. i dont know how he did it but he said he did.
and the fuel rails i didnt move them i just moned the inlet and outlet on them. that is how they were on the in the begining.

 

well i tried to order my clutch but for some reason it wouldnt let me so i then tried to do the radiator. then chanced my mind when i was thinkin about my tranny mount and how far up the tranny sits and how i dont want to have a big steel block under it. then started thinkin about RBX's comment on the flush belly. so the gears got going in ma brain and i think i figured it out on how to do it with the rear upper links. going to raise the mounts up off the axle tube. and when i went down and talked to shawn down at Jims used toyota parts. he said he could do the frame parts that i need for a good price and when i was down there i picked up a electric speedo head and speed sensor with the harness end for it. also got a sas front double cardon joint so i can have my rear shaft made. also picked up my front diff tube to delet the ADD. also im gonna get a taco battery tray to move the battery to the drivers side. well here is what i ordered insted of the clutch. and after i get the speedo wired in ill put a pic up of the wiring i have got done as i have made some progress. i found out the reason its takeing me so long on the wiring. unlike the motor mounts and some of the other stuff that i did to just get it done and will go back in and redo it it later. i never want to have to go back into the wiring again. and as it sits i have opened up the engine harness twice now. and i will be doing it for the third time now to to the speedo.

 

well i did a test run on the wiring i plugged the ecm in and hooked a jumper box up to it. was sweating bullets when i was ready to turn it on. but i didnt let any of the magic smoke out of it. and the first time i did it i had every code in the book set as the ecm is the only thing i pluged in. so i put the rest of the engine together and turned it back on. the only codes i have is a P0100 for the maf circuit and all teh tranny codes. and not to mention a code for the sup throttle sensor. darn it. now i have to figure out how to trick the tracs to. but as for the maf i did a little diag on it and i dont have any power going into it from the b+ wire. so i think i have a wire not hooked up or maybe 2. as the fuel pump didnt kick on either. but hopefully i can drag my lazy self out of bed and get there early to tinker some more. i had my driveshaft made. its really nice other then the fact that i cant put the darn thing in. i had them put a double carden on it from a solid front axle drive shaft. well the flange is not the same. im hoping i can just put a flange of the front of the t-case on the back. otherwise that is some money that i wasted. but i so hope i can start it by monday i want to hear it run so bad i can taste the burning rubber.

 

Yes yes yes yes yew yes yes yew yes yes yes yes yes. Sorry for all the yes but its the only thing I can do not to have a string of profanity on here. She fired up only for little bit though. It has so many vacuum leaks but I just needed to hear her run I was really starting to loose interest on finishing her. I tried to start her last night but the coils wouldn't fire. Turns .out they really do have to be grounded to the body to run. But holly balls I wish I didn't have.to work today so I could keep going on it

 

I bet it feels like Christmas.