Hello everyone.

I've been peaking around these forums for a year, but haven't had much to add before now.

A quick background: I'm Danish and in Denmark married on 10th year to my lovely American wife. I'm a sparky by trade and fairly "handy" with almost anything. Never did explore combustion engines and thought is was about time. Last year I bought an MF35 and a California 2nd gen 4runner (4x4, 3VZE) as a fun learning project.

The MF35 had been sitting for 15 years but is now running and work the field. The 4Runner was running, but not great and has had a lot of work done.

The latest project on the 4Runner was the infamous headgaskets (yes I totally I
Underestimated the the scope of it! Took me bloody 16 hours to tear down #˟˟˟˟ingexhaust)
It's now back together but won't start... I got spark and its reads of fuel after cranking for a while, do I'm reasoning it's a spark timing issue. The reasoning behind this is when I took the valve head (bracket, not cover) off the distributor housing came with it, when I had to put it on the spindle gear woulden go back in with the bracket on. Instead of taking it apart by loosing the degree bolt, I in my wisdom loosened the screws that said "Do not loosen" yes I'm very bright!! I after a lot of fiddling got the distributor gear (under the rotor) spinning again without any problems. But I'm not sure I'm within in specs of 0,2-0,5 mm on the G1 + G2 pickup coils (and the 3rd one, can't remember the name, I'm currently in a bar &#128512

Would this absolutely fu.. my timing or do I need to look somewhere else for the problem.

 

I'm not sure I understand exactly what it was you did to your distributor, BUT: If you pulled it out, you need to "stab" it back in oriented properly. Make sure your engine is at TDC of the #1 cylinder. Take the valve cover off, and turn the crankshaft until the timing mark is at 0. Then check to see if the valves of the #1 cylinder are both loose. If not, rotate the crank once. That should set everything correctly. Set the distributor's rotor to about the 12 o'clock position, and insert it into the engine. It should rotate to about the 10 o'clock position as you slide it in. If you look, it should be pointing right to the #1 cylinder's tower on the cap.

Put the valve cover back on. Put the bolt that holds the distributor position in snugly. Not tight, but snug. Now insert a jumper in the test jack, between Te1 and T, or T1. Now, check the timing with the engine running, presuming it will start. It should be 5° BTDC. If not, loosen the distributor's bolt, and rotate it until it is showing 5°. It shouldn't take much, ie: somewhere near the bolt being centered in it's slot. Snug the bolt down again, and pull the jumper out. The timing should go to 12-15° BTDC.

Does all my rambling help any?
Welcome to the forums, BTW.
Pat☺

 

Hey Pat

Thanks for the quick reply and sorry for my tardy response. Just got another kid so the last 2 weeks have been a bit hectic 🤣

My original question was about the coils inside the distributor housing that sends rotation speed to the ECU. However your post did solve the problem as I had pointed the rotor towards to where plug 1 looked to be on the inside of the distributor cap and not to the tower of plug one on the outside of the cap. Moved it one tooth and she fired right up.

Gonna take har for a test drive tomorrow, and will update after that.

Thank you very much for the help.

Great forum.