ya i saw a highsteer for 250 about 30minutes from me. called and it just sold.. so up setting. just started getting parts last week, spent a lot in a short time,, gotta cool it down on the money spending. im really hopeing on getting it done around the 4th of july

 

anyone know what process i have to go threw to relocate my steering box for my ruf, i have the relocating mounts from tg. just wondering if its a bolt on thing or is there any other mods to do to make it work

 

Those plates that come in the kit are suposed to be welded to the frame to reinforce it and prevent the frame from cracking when doing some extreme rock crawling with big tires.(39" iroks and hydrolic assisted steering puts a lot of stress on the steering box and frame, lol.) Also you want to mock your steering box in place using some clamps and make sure the drag link is running as parallel as possible with the tie rod. ( this will help prevent bump steer).You will also need to drill new mounting holes(probably 2 holes) through the frame. You might have to trim your core support, depending on how far forward you move the steering box. I didn't have to on my build, but it's tight up against the core support. What kind of pitman arm are you running, flat or a drop?

 

im running a drop pitman. im aware of the drilling and welding, i was just wondering about the steerig box itself , it can be pushed foward without lengthing the shaft from the steering column?

 

There are a couple of things to factor in. Starting at the shackels and where you cut your holes in the frame for your shackle tubes. (Some people cut them as far forward as possible to move the axel further forward. Mine are about in the middle of the body mount) Then how far forward that you mount your front spring hanger is going to determine how far forward your axel is located and in turn how far forward you will need to move the steering box.(it will also determine your shackle angle when you are done) Also how you rotate the steering box when mounting it could factor in whether or not you need to lengthen the steering shaft. I used ruf springs and a flat pitman arm, and moved the steering box as far forward as possible in order to get my drag link parallel with the tie rod. My steering box is right up against the core support, but I didn't have to lengthen the steering shaft at all. Some people do, but like I said they might be moving the axel father forward. I guess the best advice I could give you is look through some build threads, find a build that is similar to what you are trying to achieve, and do as much research as you can. Are you running TG's spring hanger?

 

ive looked around at other build threads didnt find much, im sure ill figure it out as i go. my spring hanger is home made. thanks for the help

 

no problem, if you are only moving your axel forward a couple inches, I think you might be OK and not have to lengthen the steering shaft. There are splines on both ends, you might be able to just loosen the bolts and slide it a little further out (towards the steering box). Good luck!

 

picked up a hysteer kit for 150 off craigslist today! so close to getting started, also made my bumper. pictures up soon

 

Nice score on the histeer! I've never seen it for that cheap on CL! Look forward to seeing your bumper pics!

 

plans changed so im going to try and get my sas done this weekend. will post pics if i start

 

progess today!


shop flooded aha

 

Its looking good! You made quick work out of ditching the ifs!

 

its gotta be quick i gotta drive it to work tuesday aha

 

I wish I could have gotten mine done that fast lol, good work so far, I hope the rest of it goes smoothly for you!

 

i hope so to.. although im a little bit nervous about where my axle is going to sit, ive read a bunch about how with ruf springs your spring hanger should be 3/4'' foward. when i put it there my shackels were about -30* so i made it flush with the frame and with no weight the shackel is about almost straight up and down with the weight on it im hoping for 15 to 20*

 

Yeah I moved my hanger forward an inch,(but mine is a homemade hanger, so I don't know how helpful that is) with the weight of the 4 runner on the axel ( without the motor and trans) the shackels were straight up and down. Now with the motor and trans in and after putting a few miles on them here is what the angle is at


I'm running 6 springs in the ruf pack tho, it sits a little higher than I want and I think if I pulled a couple leaves out the shackle angle might improve. I don't know of this helps you out at all, lol, might give you an idea of what to expect with your setup... good luck man!

 

Nice, looks like you will be done in no time at all, best wished with he build, I keeping my runner IFS for now, my 87 pickup did a frame swap...

 

ive been lookin for one of these trucks and or 4runners for awhile now, v6 5spd 4x4 with a newer motor, no luck yet and not being a clone thats a badass car, as far as hysteer goes i see no point in that bullcrap, ive beat my crossover steering to death and havent broke a thing, and your thirds were makeing noise at high speed? mine does too ever sense i got water in there, howd u fix it? mine doesnt seem to be getting worse just kinda chillin, no metal chunks either, more of an annoyce then anything....

 

read through the whole thread huh aha? my 3rd were messed up iltwhen i put in a broken locker.. simple fix pull and weld the spiders. everything works fine now,

 

got a bit done today

got the tubes welded in


with no weight on the springs the shackels were inverted like they should be so i figured they would be fine when i had weight on it. but when they weight was on it my shackel angle is to much close to 30+*(hard to see in the pictures)


a couple flex test pics