Oh and by the way the wrist pins where new as well.

 

I was hoping to get something done this week considering the beautiful weather we have this week in South Florida, but I've been pressed on time with a critical issue I have to resolve. Turns out I have to drive almost 200 miles tomorrow and may have to stay till the end of the week. Well there goes my time on the truck this week.

 

That stinks man. Hope you get everything sorted out so you can get back to work on the yota.

 

Hey Gizler, it really stinks and the fact is I'm at a scrap yard doing some work. They get cars, but very little imports. They said it's very rare to see a Toyota come in as scrap. Maybe once in a while. That does not make my day.

Here's a snap sot of what they had there at the moment:




Can't a guy get a break...LOL

I even called a few salvage yards and the 2 that I called said they don't have a single Toyota of any type.

 

Just checking in and see if you had any new information that might help give a clue as to what is going on. We have the same problem here with finding Toyotas and when they do hit the yards, you have to be there when they do, they get stripped fast.

 

Hey Terry, I haven't been able to get into so far after dismantling the parts you saw taken out last week.

Though over the course of this time I've pondered what can actually be wrong. I couldn't think of hardly anything other than that exhaust manifold leak which keep bothering me. Most likely everyone's comment that it is not the exhaust leak, but something else is right i just want to satisfy myself. Unfortunately I know it would take a few more hours of my time to put it back together and if it wasn't that to start the tear down again.

I should have some free time today to do this (put it back together) and perhaps start dismantling it again if it turns out that this was not the problem.

I just hate to pull the engine out again, but if I pull that head off, how much more of a problem would it be to pull that block out of the engine bay then.

 

Okay Okay, Terry you were right it wasn't the exhaust. Started right up after I assembling it together and it cranked right up only with the knocking .

I guess I should stop wasting my time and get to it dismantling piece by piece. It was a good try though, good practice at building these 22re. Pretty soon i can do it with my closed .

Cory, the part has arrived, sure hate to see what you end up doing with it, as this may be a good working piece. Guess I got to get on the stick so we can hook up.

 

One thing, I found out today the Power steering pump has a leak. When I originally took it off the truck and cleaned it up, I could see the leak because it was so dirty. When I cleaned it up I couldn't see a leak I filled it up and never saw the leak. When I started to dismantle the truck I unbolted it and leaned it out of the way. I guess with the pump filled and cleaned up I noticed that is was soaked around the pump and below it. Guess I'm going to end up rebuilding it.

 

It isnt much harder to pull the motor. It can be a slippery slope. First you pull the motor and while it is out you think I will do the clutch and with the motor out it isnt much longer to drop the tranny and seal up its leaks.

I can have a motor out in 2 hours or less. To me it is well worth pulling the motor if you are going to do the head gasket. I have done them in the truck, but you tend to do alot of bending over and it can be back breaking. It is also a good time to fix any leaks while the motor is out.

I like to start at the bottom and work up just for the simple fact of no matte how hard I try, when I drain the radiator, some how or another, I am going to get fluid on the floor.

1. I remove all of the tranny bolts from the bottom that I can reach. Clutch slave cylinder will get removed from tranny/starter area at this time.
2. Engine mount bolts if I can get to them or later when radiator is out.
3. Unhook wiring harness from tranny/tcase.
4 I cut my exhaust off under the drivers seat. Reason being it makes pulling the motor so much easier and if you dont have any leaks at the "Y" pipe or where the pipe hooks to the manifold, that saves a ton of head aches. If you ever strip or loosen the threads to the bolts that hold the pipe to the manifold, even new ones will keep working their way out. I have thrown some great manifolds away that now I wish I would of kept. I later learned you can helicoil those if you have to. I am not a fan of headers. You keep getting a ticking noise and I dont think you get any more horse power or very little. It cost me $20 to have my pipe rewelded. If your exhaust is NOT leaking from the manifold down to the exhasut pipe, dont mess with it, it can be a bear to get it sealed back up.
5. Remove your Plenum and all of the wiring connectors from their connections.
6. Remove radiator and fan. Use a thin 10mm wrench for the fan pulley. I have one wrench just for that. I squeeze the fan belt to hold the pulley still.
7. Remove Intake hoses and alernator wiring and tranny bolts from the top side of tranny. Disconnect your heater hoses and the ground wire on the back of the head to the firewall.

I think that is most of it off of the top of my head, but may be a step or two I missed. If your bolts are easy to come out, it goes really quick and so much easier to work on the motor and fix alot of other things. But it can lead to doing the clutch and tranny fixes as well as it isnt a whole lot more to pull them. I just pull disconnect the front drive shaft from the front axle and remove the rear drive shaft and pull tranny,tcase, and front driveshaft with the cross member all in one piece as it easier to work on them to when out. You have to make your self find a stopping point of how far you want to go. I have been down that road before.

 

Like your leak on the power steering, and replacing the alternator brushes, one thing will lead to another but it does feel good knowing it is fixed when you put it back in. But all of the little parts do add up.

 

Hey Terry, gotcha...

The only reason why I dread taking this engine apart is it's a freshly built motor and the tranny was also replaced. The engine hasn't even seen 10 miles, maybe 2 or 3 hours running on idle and that's it. I guess I shall start the tear down again, but this time pull everything out even if I find something wrong and that is if something that came out of the machine shop might not have been done correctly of measured correctly. So if something does turn out to be something the machine shop worked on or measured, i will definitely look over every detail that should have been check by me in the first place rather than taking it for granted that everything is good.

 

Cool. Yeah I'm in no hurry, but would love to get both our trucks going so we could have our trucks meet as well.

 

Got a little done this afternoon. I started disassembling again. And tomorrow I can pull the motor out and mount it on a motor stand to start the process of removing the oil pan to see if there is any problems below. If I don't find any thing I guess then i will start removing the head and work my way to the chain cover.

 

Didn't get around to pulling the motor out today. So many other things in the way today again. Luckily all i have to do is hook it up to the hoist and pull it out as everything is unbolted already, so the engine is just sitting on the mounts and leaning on the tranny. Would love to pull it out tomorrow.

 

Okay, I finally had some time today to pull that motor out. I got it out and started from the bottom to look at the rod bearing. Pull the engine then drained the oil. Really dark which it shouldn't be. Flipped the motor and took the pan off. Whamm... Didn't like what I saw immediately. There were shaving in the oil pan.

Played with the rods and there was movement in #1 #2 and a little in #3 and none in #4. Removed rod from the bearing and wham... I can see the bearing spun just by the position of the bearings. Removed #2# bearing looked good. It seems just #1 has the problem.

I am now headed to the machine shop to see what we can do, but i know in order to do anything they will have to get the crankshaft and rods.

This time i will measure it over before i even attempt to install it. that way If it is wrong it would be on my head. Well it's on my head anyhow for taking everything for granted.

I did shoot some pics, but I want to run over to the machine shop and speak with them.

I will post pics later.

 

Doesn't look like the Machine Shop wants to help out with this mess... They want another $95 to ground the crankshaft. I asked them for a better deal and they said that is it and that does not include the bearings or checking the connecting rods.

I told them we were done then and I shall look for another machine shop to do the work.

Sure enough, there was one down a few bays, but he wanted $75 no bearing, etc... oh and didn't speak English...

Anyhow in a few i'll post a few pics.

 

Pulled everything out of the way so I could easily pull the engine out of the bay. that was easy...






long extension to get that bolt at the top of the tranny ball.



Engine Pulled



Oil Pan ready for removal.



Spun Bearing



Check out the gap on this, I check to see if the rod bearing cap was badly worn down,(not by measuring, but by placing another good bearing in it to see how it fit, and it seated tight - still needs to be measured.





sadly i'm crying on this and i think both I and the machine shop are at fault for this. They did a sloppy job from the get go I think... And I for not checking it myself which would have been the correct thing to do.

 

Okay my question to anyone here would be, do you think i should ground the crankshaft for $75-$95

or should I just try and get a re-manufactured on Which would run me about $200 with Bearings and everything.

Need some input.

 

Oh and by the way I called a few machine shops around the neighborhood and they all want pretty much the same somewhere between 75 and 100 just to ground the crankshaft and they do not provide the bearings they tell you the size and their exact words you problem.

 

Junk, I don't have any good advice. 200 does not sound bad for a crank and bearings.