As soon as I get the body back down on the frame I am going to get safelite out here to pull the window so can fix any rust and reseal it. I am going to pull the dors also and epoxy them and the jambs. Then it is time to work on getting it back on the road. Still haven't told the wife how much drive shafts r going to cost.

Later

 

That looks amazing!! I like how its comin out.

 

all i can say is wow. i havent had any time what-so-ever for my runner lately and its burning me up inside. you are hitting every detail and it shows by the outcome. really impressive stuff...

 

Thanks man. I haven't taken any pics but the doors are off stripped of hard wear and paint, and shot with the epoxy primmer, and I started tonight doing a little body filler work on the rocker panels to fill in the shrinkage from were I welded up the body holes. I picked up a quart of PPG DCC GM under hood black. Hopefully this week I'll get the filler on the rockers, cleaned, scuffed, seam sealed, and the engine bay shot with the under hood black. Later

 

Nice work, I also used spi products when I did a repaint on my 85. I used their epoxy, 2k and Euro clear with great results. I used ppg Deltron for my base. Barry is a great guy and the fact that he is willing to answer the phone just about anytime to give advise is a definite plus. I'm glad I came across them when I was researching my paint project.

 

I have just read some of your build. Still got aways to go. Dont know how I missed it. I still catching up on it. Great job. Subscribed.

 

Ok time for a little update. All the seam sealer has been reapplied.









Then I scuffed everything and gave it another shot of epoxy.

After that I decided to her joiner then inner fender wells.








Then shot two thick coats of PPG DCC GM under hood black on the engine bay and under side of the hood, and a few other little bits.



















No more until after the fourth, now it's off to Bush Gardens, and water country USA. Later

 

Very nice work

 

Wow....... keep it up

 

Wow that looks amazing. You are goin the extra mile on this build and I like it. Keep it up.

 

great build - subscribed!

 

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the encouragement. Work has still been going on on the runner but I have been slow to update this tread. Parts are coming off the floor and going back on the runner and it feels good.

I had been having a hard time finding different springs and fasteners and such that really should not be painted, and needed to be replaced because of the old corrosion. So after about a week of research on the net, I decided to try and zinc plate some of this stuff myself. Turns out it is not as hard or hazardous as you would think.

Here is the process that I have good luck with so far.

First clean the part real good


Then sand blast it


Then an acid bath with 50/50 muriatic acid and water. Note pore the acid into the water not the other way around.



Then rinse the crap out of it.

Then immediately drop it into the plating bath


The plating bath is nothing more than 2 gallons of distilled white vinega, 1 lb of epsons salts, and about a 1/4 cup of sweet and low. and a zinc anode from the local boat supply store.

I am just using an old car battery as the power source and have found that it does not
need a lot of charge left in it. Hook the negative to the part to be plated, and the positive to the zinc. You need to plate out the solution for 12 hours before you try your first part. Do this by hooking up the process to old piece of cleaned and blasted steel scarp.

Once the plating bath is ready it really only takes a few minutes to plate your part.

Here is some results.





Once it comes out of the plating bath rinse it again, blow it off, and buff it out with a brass wire brush.



Springs or hardened steel really should be immediately baked at 375deg for 4 hours to off gas the hydrogen, but the wife would not let me. And I don't have my oven hooked up in the garage yet. Bolts, washers and the like are really easy, and it is much cheaper than buying new ones. I even did the clutch master cylinder.


Nice thing about is, just like OEM cadmium coatings on the bits the zinc is sacrificial.

Well time to get some sleep. Will post more tomorrow.

 

Great write up and looks great. I have been checking in on you from time to time. I like seeing someone take the extra steps getting it right. Great job.

 

Thanks Terry, sometimes I wonder if I am being to detailed about it. I could really use to just get it back on the road. But I know it will be worth it in the end. Later.

 

Excellent, and I thought being able to powdercoat my own stuff was cool.

 

Thanks rbx. I actualy thinks this is easier than powder coating. And they say that the zinc is a great sub straight for the powder coat. Later

 

Very cool.

Spring would be pointless and near impossible to PC, it would crack off.

Looking good

:wabbit2:

 

Good to know, do you have a link you used for research?

 

http://www.vmax4.com/vbulletin/showt...2-Zinc-Plating...

http://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vi...g-at-home.html

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/zinc.htm

Here you go guys. Just a few of the links out there if you google "home zinc plating".

Hope you enjoy it as much as I have. Bolts are getting expensive. And this seems to be a good way to rejuvenate them for cheap.

Seems that nickel plating is just as easy. But I need to order some nickel oxide which is running about $50 a lb.

Later

 

Thought I would post a few more picks.

Here is the zinc anode I picked up from west marine for $13.50


I wish I would have taken pictures of the head light adjuster screws and springs before, but here they are now. Pictures don't do them justice.




Later