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I had good color on 1,3,4 plugs but #2 looked "lean" very little color. So maybe it is getting lightly washed. I just don't have time for this right now. There is a local guy that is a Toyota but. Everybody has him do Toyota work. He is a 22re guy as well. I might have him do the HG.
Ok so necroing my own build ish. Been running great with zero issues. Motor turned out to be fine. Zero idea on water problem, still go through water but I believe it's a external small leak and I smell it in the engine bay at startup. Oil has been fine for 10,000 miles, always clean. Then yesterday she started to puke water out the overflow. Going to pull the thermostat today and let it get warm. See if a stuck thermostat is the cause. Also ordering my shocks, brake lines, and drop drag link to finally put my springs on.
Need Ed to get my gears and install kits so I can find a shop to set up my ARB's and gears. Seems like I might get to build it this winter. Also bought a London AC/DC tombstone so I can weld up or on some sliders. 4xinovations has a 60" set with kick out in HREW for $199. Seems like it's a hard price to beat since I would have to use square without a bender. Also traded a set of rollers for a homemade front winch bumper. Need to weld up some mounting brackets and find a used Warn winch.
Praying its it's just a thermostat problem.
Last edited by thefishguy77; 09-25-2017 at 10:50 AM.
Thanks. Getting ready to sell the car. Going to try and get it running then throw tires on it. Then bringatrailer.com. Hopefully it will go for decent money so I can throw that at my 4runner.
It begins now I guess. Took a trip to Yakima yesterday and decided to stop by harbor freight because my wife wanted a scroll saw for some projects. Well say their 9000# winch for 249 and had a 20% off coupon the guy behind the register said wouldn't work. "They never do". I convinced him to try it and BAM 20% off and that about paid for the universal wounding plate to go with it. Calling rocky-road today to order 4 shocks and 1 front bushing for my Dakar lift.
I need ideas about frame reinforcement on the front end where the winch mount goes though. I like the All Pro one but $50 seem like a fair amount for a piece of 3/16 steel and 4 small gussets when I have a cutoff wheel and some time. Also looking over on Pirate and noticed some people were fully boxing in the front of their frame rails when they welded on bracing. A few people also threw a few cross members in for good measure.
Edit: accidentally posted
Does anyone have any good pictures of their gussets on the front end. Also any dos or don't you care to pass on?
Thanks all
Last edited by thefishguy77; 10-09-2017 at 07:29 AM.
Ok worked on it a bit today. About 6 weeks ago when the weather was nice and I didn't really care I went to adjust the temp and heard the dreaded crack of plastic breaking and then the heat selection and position selection controls were frozen. Fast forward to cooler weather and having to drive a pass with only the rear heat and windows down to keep the windshield defogged and it was now time to do something. I somehow got lucky and did not have to pull the dash out to get a fix on it.
The broken white clip that goes through the heater and defrost control lever had broken. So I pulled the radio bezel, clock, glovebox out and was able to remove the broken piece by pushing a piece of wire up the whole them finding a bolt that was long and skinny enough to replace it. Took some hemostats and grabbed the bolt, washer, & lock washer. Then through the clock opening I was able to get it to slid down the hole and left it clamped in the hemostats. Then came up from the bottom and hand threaded the nut and washer. Then just tightened it down and tried it out. It works just fine. Dropped a new thermostat in from the local parts store to replace the dead Toyota one and I have heat.
Sorry no picture as I was doing this while my son took a nap. Ran out of time before I could get the glovebox back in. So close.
Parts are showing up. Hope I didn't ruin the motor today. Fired it up to warm up. Came put 10-15 minutes later and jump in. Temp gauge is almost touching red. No heat coming from the vents. Shut it down and popped the hood. Wet around the T-stat area. Going to deal with it tomorrow. Hope I didn't screw up the motor. If I did and it's not just a head gasket then it's 2rz or 3rz. One thing after the other it seems.
Last edited by thefishguy77; 10-19-2017 at 07:51 AM.
Ok so some moisture showed up on the oil filler cap last night. My hydrocarbon tester showed up yesterday as well. Will try and run a compression and hydrocarbon test tonight. But looks like it's a head gasket. Assuming the head and lock are fine I am thinking Toyota head gasket and 22re performance 1/2 moons. Does anybody else make the aluminum ones for under $30?
The world seems to be conspiring against me to put my suspension on.
Bummer. I've got a spare set of alloy half moons from Yota 1 Performance. There's nothing wrong with them, I ended up buying a head gasket set from 22reperformance that included theirs and I prefer no-logos. You can have them for $10+shipping, you just need to clean fipg off and they're like new.
I'll include an Engnbldr (DNJ) head gasket free if you want it, but shipping will cost more. Up to you, I'm not gonna use it cause I convinced myself OEM or nothing after a Fel-Pro gave out on me. For what it's worth, Ted says it's a good but inexpensive copy of Toyota's current headgasket design.
Last edited by gsp4life; 10-25-2017 at 09:26 AM.
Reason: Add photo
I will take both. Although compression test came back clean. 160,165,165,170. 1-4 and hydrocarbon test is good. Ran it twice. Think the water residue I found on the oil cap was from the stuck open thermostat not letting the engine warm up. Plugs looked good as well. Although number 3 smelled a bit rich. My 1/2 moons leak and I'm sick of the rubber. And I like teds gaskets. That's what I'm running now and always have in the past. Any failure has always been on me. I will send you a PM
You weren't kidding about having no spare time! I understand, though cause right now I barely have time to change oil. I gave a nephew the garage for an engine swap so anything I do right now's outside in the driveway.
I recently replaced my master, slave cylinder and flexible clutch line (marlin crawler's braided ss steel). I had to adjust the pedal linkage several times, but you'll have the job done in no more than a couple hours.
Ok put on just shy of 500 miles today for work and with a new O2 sensor it didn’t trip a single code. Was tripping 4,5,6 and/or 5,6,7. I will check them tomorrow morning but zero CEL flashes today.
Ok so had a small moment with the rig the other night. Drove it around like I said. Then when I went to start it the next morning I heard a god awful rattling sound. Shut it down and just walked away. I’m sick and didn’t have the patience required to figure it out. I was now shopping 3.4 motors.
Today before I left for work in my other rig I popped the hood and started it. There is that noise again but now I had time to realize it was from around the cat and not the motor. It might need a new cat or could have just had a bolt come loose from the flange. Either way she still runs good. It’s the small victories sometimes.
Yeah, dodged a bullet it sounds like. You've done too much work on that 22re for it to die so soon. Tap the exhaust with a rubber mallet and you'll find out what's loose in no time.
Ok so it's the cat that had something break loose on the inside. Just going to bypass it for now with a straight pipe. I will put a cat back on eventually.
So looks like the 1st or 2nd week of January I will be putting my lift on, weather dependent might end up doing it cramped in the car port if there is to much snow. Going with new u-bolts, drop drag link and extended brake line to go with the Dakar springs. So this leads I. To the next stage of planing, gears and lockers.
Currently I have a set of used ARB's in 3rd needing new gears. I am somewhat second guessing going with ARB's due to having potential air leaks. I can get a good deal on E-Lockers. There is a local guy in town that parts out 3 gen Runners and Tacos, he would probably hook me up with a good set up, wants more people to wheel with.
So would you go with E-Lockers front and rear? E locker rear ARB front, or Air in the rear and E-Locker up front, or stick with ARB front and rear. I figure I can sell my ARB's and have some money left over to put towards gears.
Got a new windshield today. Pulled the dreaded chrome trim of and expected to find a disaster. Instead the were to areas with some pitting but no major rust at all. Replace the chrome trim with a rubber gasket. Got lucky.
06-06-2017, 08:23 AM
Shut it down and popped the hood. Wet around the T-stat area. Going to deal with it tomorrow. Hope I didn't screw up the motor. If I did and it's not just a head gasket then it's 2rz or 3rz. One thing after the other it seems.
My hydrocarbon tester showed up yesterday as well. Will try and run a compression and hydrocarbon test tonight. But looks like it's a head gasket. Assuming the head and lock are fine I am thinking Toyota head gasket and 22re performance 1/2 moons. Does anybody else make the aluminum ones for under $30?
I will put a cat back on eventually. 
