rustED

iTrader: (2)

Engine is looking great...got any pics of the 4runner?

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

4Runner pics per request


Only real rust


Sorry about the reflection. I was greasy and didn't want to open it up. She's really clean on the inside

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Wow, that's a nice looking runner! Interior looks really nice, like the exterior stripes too!

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

So I am finally renting my engine hoist tomorrow to pull the old motor. Then I should be able to get the fly wheel turned in a day or two. Then rent the hoist again and install the motor. Want to get her fired by the end of next week at the latest.

ON A SUPER AWESOME NOTE!!!!!!!
I picked up a set of light duty almost new OME set of springs. The guy mounted them on his project and then changed his mind before it was even driven. I will post some pics of the springs tomorrow. It will be a bit before I can install them. We are getting ready to sell our house and get house in a different area. Closer to trails and fishing for me and more land for a garden for her. And in a perfect world I will have a shop as well.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Ok so got my motor installed and running finally. She runs great lots of power, (for a 22re)

I am getting a code 4, 5, 7. The TPS has a damaged plug so I need a new pigtail male end. Is the a aftermarket source for this?

The Code 4 is possibly the plug in the thermostat cover as it is damaged as well. I think this is a spade connector but I need to check again. If so easy fix.

And code 5 I believe is a damaged wire as this started right after I put my header on so I am assuming i bent and broke the 31 year old wire. So once again I will need to find and splice a wire.

So is there any aftermarket TPS plugs?
Water thermostat plugs? (Plug at top of thermostat housing)

Thanks

But since she runs good i get to look at getting the rest of the parts for my OME springs. Thinking I'm going with their shackles. I have read several installs of their lifts and I am aware I need to check the clearance by the gas tank. Do I need to get a drop pitman arm for it as well? Using new U-Bolts of course, OME spring bushings. Drive shafts should be fine it's only about 2-3". I was fine with a broken in rancho 4" on my last 85.

What am I missing?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Part of this is listed in your troubleshooting thread. Some gathered from elsewhere I bet you have seen also.

The pin layout doesn't change and the signal levels stay the same, the plug key ways, and most importantly the armature's orientation varies.

To use the late model on a first generation you will require.
The late model armature off the TPS side of the throttle body (held on by a 10-12mm nut, and the corresponding pigtail. Of course the sensor also.

The first generation plug is slightly larger and more square, it needs more modifications(filing) than just cutting off the keyways to fit into the late model sensor.

​​​​

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Awesome thanks so much for the info.

bruner

We need some engine bay pics now that you got the 22re back in! Also, are you just going to be running OME's stock length shackles?

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I will try and take some fresh pictures today. As far as shackles go I am undecided. All I have at the moment are the springs and bushings. So everything else is negotiable. My one concern is I have seen a lot of these lifts that have a contact issue near the gas tank. If longer shackles would prevent this then I am all for it. However I am only going to run 33's on this rig. Gears, lockers, and armor will make up the rest.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Well found some older pictures. It's been in the high teens low 20's for a few day and I don't want to spend anymore time than I have to outside.

Got to get her loaded on the trailer yesterday. I just can't get these electrical issues figured out. She's going back to my buddies shop. Everything is harder when it's frozen. Hammers and torches make things move when they don't want to.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

She back up and running with zero codes. Shorts in the fuel circuit amongst other things. I will get the full list in the next day or 2.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Ok long time no update. She's still running great but I think I have a bad ECU. It either trips 4,5,6 or 5,6,7. I am looking for a new ECU but until I find one I'm driving it and loving it.

I am picking up a pair of ARB's, solenoids, and switches tomorrow in 4cyl thirds. Both have chipped R&P but worked when pulled. I am going to get 4:88's installed in the future but for now just excited to get the ARB's in my possession. For a compressor I was thinking small ARB compressor for the lockers and then get an inverter so I could run a small ridged compressor I have for tire inflation.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Ok FML. Changed the oil tonight and saw a small amount of water in it.

Going to pull the valve cover next time I have a minute and check the timing chain guide. Then compression test. Then light it on fire.

But on a serious note. Timing chain cover or head gasket. One more try and then engine swap. I don't care anymore. Taco 4 banger is coming if I can't get it right.

bootscootboogie

iTrader: (1)

You going 2.4 or 2.7?

I see 2.4s for SOOOOO much cheaper. My 97 Tacoma had a 2.4 and that was probably the best engine I've ever had. 323,000 miles when it started having issues, but I got it with 220,000 and it had not been maintained. I vouch for the 2RZ personally. It's a sweet little engine.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Probably 2.4 as I have no money and it gets great reviews. I just hope I can get this one back and up so I can spend what little money I do have on my lift and lockers.

With the 2.4 can I get an adapter for the W56. I know I know read the swap section.

bootscootboogie

iTrader: (1)

I've READ that the w56 bolts right up? I could be mistaken. You should read up on boosting a 2RZ. the stock internals can take a good bit. Lots of guys on toyotaminis throw turbos on em and get good power. I think it's fine in stock form but it's interesting to research.

jakey poo

Use the w59 bellhousing, but yeah the w56 works after that

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I do don't want to go there yet. I am selling a rifle and mags that should give me enough to have my ARB's set up, compressor, welder for sliders etc. and a few bucks left. If I have to blow my wad on a new engine I will be very sad. Marlins site said it's around 1200-1500 for the swap and I don't want to yet. But if I have to the 2rz seems like the right choice. And not boosted to begin with. It will still be like adding a cylinder to the 22re in stock form.

I haven't had the courage to pull the valve cover yet. Something in the pit of my stomach says timing chain cover.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Ok so been super busy with work. I believe I have a head gasket issue. I have condensation on the oil cap and have a water leak I can't find.

Just did a compression test. 155, 160, 165, 165
1-4 respectively.
I still need to pull the timing chain cover to make sure the chain tensioner didn't fail. So ready to just do a 2 or 3 RZ motor swap and be done. If I'm going to have the headaches at least get some added power out of it.

Edit: could I have damaged the head gasket when I retorqued the head bolts?

gsp4life

Sounds like a hg failure but it's weird that your compression #'s are all low for such a new build. At 6k miles I get 171, 171, 168 and 171psi (1-4). #3 is a few lbs low due to an assembly accident - I had to remove the new pistons more than once and the cylinder wall got a tiny gouge near the top.

Engnbldr recommend 65 ft/lb torque rating and a retorque, so I don't think you did anything wrong there as long as you stuck with the correct head bolt pattern and only backed each bolt off a tiny bit.