racehoss' 1985 4Runner Build-Up Thread
Jul 19, 2011 | 05:55 PM
#61
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From: Austin, Texas
Looks Nice man...throw the sway bar as far away from you as you can...you dont need it. I drive my truck 20 miles everyday to work and never thought for a second about putting it back on. And well for the steering...I know u can get away with high steer with those OME leafs if ur running at least a 5" shackle up front(stock is 3.5")...thats exactly how my truck is set up. Good luck...sweet 4runner.
So no issues with the drag links or tie rods hitting the oil pan?
Stock oil pan?
Jul 19, 2011 | 07:23 PM
#62
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From: Austin, Texas
Kind of isolated the veering to the right as my passenger front brake is grabbing harder than the driver side. What's up with that? Could I have gotten oil or grease on the driver side rotor? But wouldn't that wear clean after a bit? What would cause week braking from one side?
Jul 20, 2011 | 08:29 AM
#64
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From: Los Angeles
Kind of isolated the veering to the right as my passenger front brake is grabbing harder than the driver side. What's up with that? Could I have gotten oil or grease on the driver side rotor? But wouldn't that wear clean after a bit? What would cause week braking from one side?
And about the oil pan...on my truck i have no issues with it. Its a stock oil pan and you probably want the extra 1.5" from the shackles to make sure it clears.
Jul 20, 2011 | 08:36 AM
#65
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From: Austin, Texas
Jul 20, 2011 | 09:20 AM
#66
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From: Los Angeles
Thanks SoCAL. Don't you think I'll be fine with the U Bolt setup I have? Here's a picture. AND, Do you think I can just get the longer shackle plates and use the same bushings and bolts I already bought? IF so, where and which plates do I get? Mine of course are not flat, they widen out for the frame and then close up for the springs.
Jul 20, 2011 | 04:12 PM
#68
I just bought a set of shackles off a guy that makes them and they are just like yours but 3/8" plate and bent to be wide at teh frame and slim on the spring and only paid $65 shipped with hardware and painted black
Jul 22, 2011 | 08:53 AM
#71
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From: Los Angeles
Looks like some more fun...I welded my rear bumper on to the frame after i bolted it up and im SOooo glad i did because that thing get abused like a red head step child...just some food for thought.
Jul 28, 2011 | 06:04 PM
#73
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From: Austin, Texas
So I'm noticing my front axle is twisting a little when I apply the brakes. I've removed the sway bar and the dog bone torque bar thing. With the lift I can't fit the original torque bar. Do they make an adjustable one? Will that decrease my flex dramatically? Or should I blow it off? It's just seems like that could be bad for the diff to be flexing and rotating that much? Thoughts????
Nice work on the paint job!
Jul 29, 2011 | 02:49 AM
#75
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From: Austin, Texas
Thanks Chef.
Sooo, I opened a can or worms I wasn't ready for. I was going to have the new windshield popped in this morning and the tech said why don't you paint your car before we put the windshield in so the paint line is covered with the glass and trim. I said, good Idea but i'm not even close to painting and my car is sitting under a carport without a front windshield. So that got me kind of paranoid about the new paint job peeling or bubbling around the window opening. So I went to get all the sanding and body work tools and I guess I'm going to tackle that before I put the window in.
I agree and follow what the windshield tech is saying but It could seriously be weeks before I'm ready to paint. Or I'm going to rush the prep and I'll have a cappy paint job because I was trying to hurry and get the window in place.
I thought about getting the windshield set in place but not put on the chrome trim yet. Do all the body work and get it painted, then glue those shotty chrome trim pieces in place. They don't hold back water and are just for looks anyway.
Any suggestions?
Sooo, I opened a can or worms I wasn't ready for. I was going to have the new windshield popped in this morning and the tech said why don't you paint your car before we put the windshield in so the paint line is covered with the glass and trim. I said, good Idea but i'm not even close to painting and my car is sitting under a carport without a front windshield. So that got me kind of paranoid about the new paint job peeling or bubbling around the window opening. So I went to get all the sanding and body work tools and I guess I'm going to tackle that before I put the window in.
I agree and follow what the windshield tech is saying but It could seriously be weeks before I'm ready to paint. Or I'm going to rush the prep and I'll have a cappy paint job because I was trying to hurry and get the window in place.
I thought about getting the windshield set in place but not put on the chrome trim yet. Do all the body work and get it painted, then glue those shotty chrome trim pieces in place. They don't hold back water and are just for looks anyway.
Any suggestions?
Where did you get those shackles?
Aug 1, 2011 | 05:57 PM
#77
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From: Austin, Texas
Does anyone know the size and thread pitch for the bolt hole on the roll bar where it looks like a shoulder harness would go? I want to rig up a mount for my hilift and have seen people bolt a long screw there and then put a wing nut on it.
Aug 7, 2011 | 04:35 PM
#79
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From: Austin, Texas
Sliders getting welded on this week.
I replaced my rear brake shoes yesterday and cleaned everything nicely.
Im guessing the rear drums just won't lock up the rear when you put 33s on the truck???
Rears work "ok" but I'm getting some mushy pedal feel. If I pump them once it builds up nicely. I'm not a brakes guy. What's up? Do I need to bleed them?
I replaced my rear brake shoes yesterday and cleaned everything nicely.
Im guessing the rear drums just won't lock up the rear when you put 33s on the truck???
Rears work "ok" but I'm getting some mushy pedal feel. If I pump them once it builds up nicely. I'm not a brakes guy. What's up? Do I need to bleed them?
Last edited by racehoss; Aug 7, 2011 at 04:43 PM.
Aug 7, 2011 | 05:56 PM
#80
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From: Canada
http://www.toyotafiberglass.com/4Runner.htm .. we have complete stock 1/4rs , custom 1/4rs or even 3" flared 1/4rs .. just have a look ..
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ive been looking EVERYWHERE around where i live for 1/4's and rockers and they dont sell them for old 4runners. WTF!
ill be contacting you soon
