Yea it only takes a bit of breakage to allow contact to happen. For your new kit are you using the steel backed guide?

 

Yeah, I went ahead and got the LCE dual row with metal guides. I've been checking my guides pretty regularly since buying the truck --- what did it in though: purchased a carburetor from a guy that said it was in good condition, put it on, fired it up, and I swear the truck shot up to its highest RPM possible. I ran around, tried to adjust the screws thinking they were just out of whack, but it was just a messed up carb. Right after that I heard a new noise that I knew wasn't a valve. Kinda glad it happened in my front yard though.

 

We're getting there!!!!

 

Getting rid of the Aisin carb makes life so much easier on a 22r. Once you get everything set up, with one or two pumps of the throttle and you can have a 22r starting in 1/2-1 revolution of the motor. One quick starting motor. I need to get one of my trucks converted to 22r, not going to miss CELs.

Anytime I have the valve cover off, I recheck the torque on the head bolts. Seems to me the Exhaust side likes to loosen up and feel that it is a major cause of head gaskets blowing. I set the torque to 5-10 pounds less then what the factory recommends. It is tight enough to tell me if any head bolts have loosened up but not so tight to disturb the gasket.

 

Careful. The fsm says 58lbs I believe and there was a revision I think to 65lbs
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-22re-225595/

If your going light that would explain why they loosen up. Just a thought. And I know what you mean about the CEL. I just finished a full rebuild and am chasing codes like crazy drunk man chases his beer.
First a code 6 and won't stay running. Then find that one with a ground. And get 3,5,7. Now she won't run again and I am getting 3,6,10,13. Going to look for my spare igniter tomorrow and swap that a see if that helps. Man carbs do simplify things.

 

I set my head bolts to 65 but when I check a truck I go to 60. I work on numerous other trucks other then my own and I see several that the head bolts are loose on. Some I think have never been into. For the most part, it seems to me that #2 and #4 Exhaust side seems to be the biggest culprit.

Really is not a check for the Igniter. I have a known good one that I swap for testing purposes. Three sensors I pay close attention to is the O2 sensor, TPS Sensor. Those if they are old, I just replace. I have seen where some clean the TPS and get it working but they are usually so worn out. You can get them to pass a test with cleaning but still deal with issues. The AFM, I have never gotten a code off of it unless I forgot to hook it back up and that is the only time I have ever gotten a code from it. I have a known good AFM just for that check. You can run resistance checks on it and if it is bad it will fail the resistance check and not throw a code. All other sensors usually just need a good cleaning. The Cold Start Injector Timing Switch can go bad or sometimes just needs cleaned. A resistance check will tell you if it is good or bad. I stick it in the freezer and test at different temps.

 

I didn't mean to imply you didn't know the proper torque specs for these motors. It was more of a PSA for others reading this thread for help.

 

So much work. Almost there...

 

It's running, but I can see a little smoke coming off of the header. I think it's something to do with a valve but every search I've done just takes me to overheating issues dealing with the coolant system. I will borrow a timing light and see if I can zero it in. Good lord I was worried about something happening but this is really really left field.

No there's nothing on the header either, and the truck isn't at operating temperature yet. This is happening after running for a couple minutes.

Hmmmm.

 

https://sendvid.com/il67dxbt

 

Link doesn't work for me. But could it just be not all the way sealed. Or some oil residue that's burning off? The last time I did just a timing chain I had a bit of smoke that took a while to dissipate.

 

Sprayed some carb cleaner on the header and let it run for a little while, the smoke cleared. I'm just paranoid and didn't want to damage anything.

Small oil leak at the oil pan, I've got some fipg on it now and I'm hoping it seals it up.

Truck fires right up with no problem though. Timing is almost 100℅ on point.

I can't believe I did this!

 

Good work. It always brings a smile when they run right.

 

Great job on getting it fired up. I still get concerned when I have done some major work to it. Paint, oil, and other contaminates will burn off and make a smell or smoke that can worry you. Just make sure you have your fluids topped off, no major leaks and keep an eye on your temperture for a while. I have seen it take up to 15 minutes for all of the smoke and smells to finally stop.

Another thing is I have let them idle for up to 1/2 an hour and no problems. Then take one for a test drive and have issues. Idling is 850ish but driving your rpm double or triple and that is when leaks can start happening or other things as the pressure increases. Take it on small trips close to your house and have some tools with you. Most time it is something you can correct on the side of the road like tighten up a loose hose clamp or similar.

Congrats on this being your first time and getting it running. Doing things like this is what makes it so addictive. I have fired many motors up for the first time and still get excited each time. You are taking a bunch of nuts, bolts, and parts and then when everything goes right, you get to hear and see them operate.

Congrats again!!!!!

 

Thanks dude. I need to send 4crawler a message and thank him. That write up is the cats meow.

 

oil pan leak won't stop.

tried 3 different RTVs and followed instructions each time.

put a gasket on it. still leaks.

puddle of oil has a dab of fresh green coolant sitting in it.

im frustrated as hell. Parking the truck until my 9 day Christmas break where I will be pulling the engine to carefully and correctly redo my work.

I'm thinking I may have disrupted a part of the head gasket, and it's leaking coolant into the pan via the timing cover, and the oil pan leak is letting it out because it floats on top of the oil. This is just a theory. I'm contemplating having the head reworked and using all new bolts, etc.. but still using my LCE chain. I'm sure it's not hurt.

Rant over. I feel better lol

 

Did you check the timing cover for wear from the timing chain rubbing?Just a thought but maybe not an issue.There is a bolt in the timing cover that does require sealant on the threads.As far as where the headgasket and timing cover meet that should only leak oil if its not sealed good.

 

Careful having the head reworked. Did you already have it milled? If so how much? If you have it milled again you will probably want to look in to an adjustable timing gear.

I personally won't mill a head. For me if the head needs to be milled I should change out all the valve stems, valves, etc. then I'm going to want to probably do a cam if I haven't already done one. So I just get an engnbldr head setup to what I want and a cam with free shipping.

 

BARELY touched the cover. Basically scratched it lol

 

I *think* this head is untouched, but I don't know 100℅

​​​​​​I'm flustered right now and not making any serious decisions yet because I need to think my next move through.