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Picking up a new daily today. 1992 Geo Prizm. 126K. One owner!! It's basically a Corolla. It's gonna be nice getting 35mpg with cold air conditioning. This is really gonna help me out as I can stop driving the pickup so much. I love my truck but it SUCKS as a DD. Pics soon. Man I'm excited. I love old school square TOYOTA cars as much as I do trucks!!
Bought my brother's 31 10.50 general grabbers. I have got to paint this bad boy soon. It's happening. I decided what I'm doing with my suspension for now: RUF and off shelf 3" springs in the rear, with probably rancho shocks. I dont need articulation honestly. It's on the highway and some mud every now and then. So I'm just not putting too much into suspension. Got a free bull guard that I'm gonna start making into a full front bumper. Want to utilize the stock front bumper and just reinforce it / bring it out about 3 inches. Now that I have the material I can dilly with it.
Just catching up on your thread. Welding just takes practice and where you had to weld it doesn't have to be perfect, just needs to work. Sometimes getting good gas mileage is a nice thing and especially when having to do a lot of driving or a long trip. They are a little more comfortable for trips too.
Picking up a new daily today. 1992 Geo Prizm. 126K. One owner!! It's basically a Corolla. It's gonna be nice getting 35mpg with cold air conditioning. This is really gonna help me out as I can stop driving the pickup so much. I love my truck but it SUCKS as a DD. Pics soon. Man I'm excited. I love old school square TOYOTA cars as much as I do trucks!!
"cyclone" rims from the 80s + 31x10.50x15 Kenda MTs. Rims were $100, lugnuts were $50 (seat style flange), and tires were $508 after mounting and balancing. They are awesome.
I have been checking my guides pretty regularly, and when I heard that weird chirpy click after blipping the throttle, I knew what it was.
Dual row chain on the way. Mechanic says it'll be 2 weeks before he can touch it. I don't have two weeks, so I'm going to do it myself. I seriously think I've read 4crawlers write up 50 times. I'm not that afraid to do it. Can't be mad either because I've had the truck 2 years hassle free!!!
A Haynes Manual is great about swapping out the Timing Chain. It takes a little longer then you might expect but just go slow and steady. When putting on the Timing Cover, be careful about not bending the head gasket. I put a dab of sealant to hold it to the head when installing the cover. It is possible to put a bend in the head gasket where it surrounds the Timing Chain.
A Haynes Manual is great about swapping out the Timing Chain. It takes a little longer then you might expect but just go slow and steady. When putting on the Timing Cover, be careful about not bending the head gasket. I put a dab of sealant to hold it to the head when installing the cover. It is possible to put a bend in the head gasket where it surrounds the Timing Chain.
I've read Rogers how to at least 20 times this week alone, I've got my Haynes manual at the ready, and I found 92 TOYs thread. I'm seriously trying to soak up every bit of information I can before I break a bolt loose. I do have a few questions though. Few minor details I can't seem to find anywhere. Thanks for the tip Terry!!
A trap that got me was not having enough tension holding up the cam sproket. The strong new osk tensioner did it's job and I was not able to get the sproket up high enough to seat on the camshaft. Had to pull the timing cover a second time, wasting a few hours all while being afraid I was messing up gaskets. I got lucky, but don't let it slip down even a millimeter!
Some people are scared of the starter bump method to remove the crank pulley bolt, but it works! I fastened the breaker bar to the frame with a bungee, and for extra security tied the socket end to the pulley with some nylon cord.
A trap that got me was not having enough tension holding up the cam sproket. The strong new osk tensioner did it's job and I was not able to get the sproket up high enough to seat on the camshaft. Had to pull the timing cover a second time, wasting a few hours all while being afraid I was messing up gaskets. I got lucky, but don't let it slip down even a millimeter!
Some people are scared of the starter bump method to remove the crank pulley bolt, but it works! I fastened the breaker bar to the frame with a bungee, and for extra security tied the socket end to the pulley with some nylon cord.
Looking back, what would you recommend to keep good tension on the cam sprocket? I've seen people using tie straps.
I just use a bungee to the hood latch to keep the sprocket from falling, I don't keep it so tight that the tensioner stays collapsed. Instead, I just use a long prybar or screwdriver to push the tensioner back in when installing the cam sprocket onto the cam.
Okay so I'm down to one question. Before putting the valve cover back on, can I rotate the crank by hand and make absolutely sure everything is going to work? I was thinking I could do this and check my valves to make 100℅ sure they're opening and closing when they're supposed to? Is that too paranoid? If I can, should I add oil to kind of prime everything before firing up?
Lol I'm just weary of crunching something or whatever. I know it seems crazy, but I'm just wondering.
Since you have an 84 if you pull the oil pan off it makes getting the timing cover off without damaging the head gasket a lot easier. Just pull the pan bolts and 2 nuts off. Then it should drop don a few inches. I believe you rotate the back end of the pan towards the passenger side and then it should come the rest of the way. Took me about 10 minutes to pull the pan on my 85 last time I did just the chain. Then just remove the cover as usual and replace the worn parts with new. When you put the cover back on use and ultra thin coat of rtv on the bottom of the head gasket with a thin bead there the cover meat the block and head (very thin bead). The rtv on the head gasket will act as lube and help it slid back in with out buggering the head gasket. Then bolt you stuff back together and your good to go.
Just don't use too much RTV anywhere it can break off and float around your motor finding bad spots to decide to stop and plugging an oil port.
Good luck hope I didn't confuse you more. 4crawlers guide is rad.
Work!!!!!! I've got the crankshaft pulley off, just waiting for a solid day to replace all components.
Buying a 1985 4x4 from my neighbor for $600. It still runs. Lots of parts.. like a rebuilt G54 that I will be getting asap. Probably going to swap over the whole brown interior too. Good grief I can't wait to have my truck back.
daylight savings time? I call it The Hitler Solstice. Lol making some progress. Dad's 1974 Charger is sitting in the shop so I'm doing this where I parked it and found the guide missing. Bag and tag baby!!! Yee haw
Tomorrow! And Sunday. I have to get this finished. Pulled the oil pan today and pulled these pieces from the bottom of the timing cover. There really wasn't anything in the pan! Upon further inspection most of the guide is still on. You can see where the chain made a small amount of contact with the cover. Thank God I might not have to order a cover. Because I don't know if this block has been decked and a new cover presents a whole new problem with interference with the HG. I miss my truck.
May 11, 2016 | 01:53 AM
