irab88

iTrader: (4)

i was drooling the whole time while looking over this build

love it!

slacker

iTrader: (1)

lookin sweet brutha !!


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Gotricebogger

Thanks for posting bud, truck looks awesome and I will be using these pics here shortly to help with the mods on mine. couldn't find where you picked up the birfield liters or were they just painted factory?

Gotricebogger

Arg birfeild outers not liters. I hate spell check sometimes. Love the high steer too by the way.

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, frame to ground is just over 24". Eventually will change the transfer case cross-member, maybe to FROR or a custom one.


Are you talking about the knuckles? The knuckles are the original ones, painted Ford blue.


Steering is straight now, pitman was 1 tooth off. Steers great! Feels really good going down the road, even without shocks, a little bouncy bouncy though

Installed the stabilizer:



Truck is going to sit for a few weeks while I work on other things. Then it's time to install shock towers & shocks. Probably Davez towers and Bilstein 12".

VANCE164

iTrader: (1)

Really clean! Looks very nice I'm excited to watch how this whole thing unfolds

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

Just a quick touch up on the rear bumper, welded on some Ballistic clevis tabs and painted it with some non-slip bed liner paint.

dirtdobberoffroad

where are the updates on this...

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

Coming soon! Thanks for asking. Work has put the blue truck project on the back burner. Plus my '87 4runner has been acting up and I finally started messing w/ that last week.

But the blue truck will be pulled in soon, and finish a few things on the front end. Items that get it are: front spring hanger, shock towers and shocks.

Then it gets Andrew's sweet 20R motor that I bought

Good sig btw.

westjohns yota

great build for sure! makes me wanna get undeaneath mine, never pulled a sfa apart before, how hard is it really? ive rebuilt a motor so im fairly inclide mechinically

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! It's not really that hard, just take your time and use a FSM to make sure you don't miss anything. Read a few threads on here and maybe Pirate to get some advice. I'd say the knuckle shims are the hardest part, but it's not too hard. The bottom shims center the knuckle on the ball, so don't change those. The top shims adjust the knuckle bearing preload, and must be done right, without the ball seals in place. If you aren't changing your knuckle bearings & races, then just put the same shims back in the same place. Label everything and tie it together w/ zip ties when you take it apart.

saabota

LOVE IT IM BUILDING MY 82 ALOT LIKE THIS ILL START A BUILD THREAD SOON. AS GOOD AS I CAN CAUSE ITS BEEN A WORK IN PROGRESS FOR 6 MONTHS NOW

saabota

LOVE IT IM BUILDING MY 82 ALOT LIKE THIS ILL START A BUILD THREAD SOON. AS GOOD AS I CAN CAUSE ITS BEEN A WORK IN PROGRESS FOR 6 MONTHS NOW

salanord

great rig =)

limited#279

Awesome build man!

TJW24

Appreciate The help and the info you gave me on the OME springs , Thought id hop on here and thank you and show you the outcome. I ran 009a's and 009r's with the 5 inch shackles i already had. I had some 6in all pro springs but the stance was ridiculous and way to big for my likings. I had already welded up and installed and ifs box so there was no going back to stock suspension/steering haha
I seen in your picture just as on my truck the rear shackle was way off angle. Did you even get it to straighten out? I am tempted to more the rear shackle hangers in a few inches and see of i can get a better angle, I aint getting any flex from the rear and it is VERY STIFF ! And the rear is sitting a bit higher becasue it is just sitting on the shackles. I am temped to put the stock 3.5's back on also.

Anyway thanks again!
and let me know if you ever got the rear shackle to straight out

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

The front looks good. The FA's will break in nicely.

About the rear, well funny you should ask, I have about 900 lbs (2 x 55 gallon plastic water barrels) in the back to settle them down. The truck has been sitting because of other projects, but I set that weight in there to see what it's going to do. I would say pull the very short bottom leaf out, put weight in it, and flex it out for a while. And try the 3.5" stock shackles too, or re-drill your new ones shorter.

If my shackle doesn't look good, I'm going to get some rear hangers and move them forward a bit. But I am also thinking of using some F150's and run them reversed, so I can get that 56" spring length. The OME springs are the same part for 4runner and pickup, so in a pickup you have to really load them to get them to work.

TJW24

Awesome thanks. My fronts are starting to settle in nicely . Deffinetly not at 45 angle, but I only have about 500 miles on them . Also the rear I was thinking the same thing with a longer spring . I wish I would and bought a longer ome spring but o well .
I seem someone on here that ran some RC springs and the rear shackles did the same thing with 3.5 shackles so they just ended up moving the hangers

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

Well the OME 019R is the 89-95 spring, 47.5" not much longer. I would pull the lowest leaf out, and then go wheeling w/ a load of weight in the bed a few times.

If I do F150 springs, I will use the main leaf from them, and maybe the 009R leafs to make a hybrid rear pack. And I will save the 009R main leaf for future use as a RUF pack if I need it.

I can't do much in the rear because the frame is cut off w/ the bobbed bed, so the shackle hangers can't go rearward any more. Running F150 reversed would be a perfect fit, just weld on new hangers on the front side.

TJW24

Yeah mine was bobbed already also but I found it before they cut the frame . Looks goof as hell running around with the frame sticking out but I evently want to put a stock leanth bed back on it . Would love to go with the long bed but I don't think I have enough room on the frame to make the wheel base longer