stealth_5mge

Hey Yotatech,
I'm a long time Toyota enthusiast, especially the classics! I've owned multiple Toyota sports cars; celicas, corolla GTS, 1st gen MR2, multiple supras. Here is a pic of my current Mk.II supra (60trim CT26 turbocharged 5m-GE on standalone EMS).


I've always wanted an early 80s pickup so when I came across this busted up 82 long box 4x4 that an old hippy friend of mine was selling, I couldn't resist. I knew it was a total basket case that would need countless hours of work, but all I could see was the potential. So I bought it.

Roark

You've got your work cut out for you!! Love these old trucks!

stealth_5mge

As I said, the truck needed lots of work. This truck, unfortunately came with an L50 transmission and as many of you already know, The L50 transmission is prone to input bearing failure, at over 400,000Kms this one was no exception. It sounded like I was driving a cement mixer.


Luckily for me, The truck came with a 22R, G52/RF1A from an 84 pickup. So I immediately went to work on the swap. I had to Modify the X-member, Fab up some new Hangers to bolt the member further (~4.5")back, enlarge the transmission tunnel in the floorpan to clear the new position of the Tcase and modify the driveshafts (which needed new Ujoints anyway). But other than that, it was pretty much a straightforward Re&Re job!


Had to extend the Crossmember, as the frame is wider where it now sits.




Hard to tell from this angle, but the top of the Tcase interferes with the Trans tunnel, so it has to be cut to clear.

Cant leave a hole in the floor, so I fabbed up a hump over the Tcase. It may not be pretty but it does the trick. I have an old 7.62mm ammo case that I will mount behind as a 'centre console'. Also degreased and rocker guarded the floorpan for ease of cleaning.

When I was under the truck changing out the rear driveshaft, I noticed that the rear end has a V6 3rd member in place. I haven't looked at the gears yet but I'm wondering if one of the previous owners regeared, maybe to 4.56's? anyway, the V6 rear is good news because I have a MA70 supra Limited Slip rear / weir maxgrip bevel springs that will be installed in the future.

stealth_5mge

reserved for electrical update.
WORST stereo install ever.
The wire that leads to nowhere.
brake/tail/turn signal issues
short circuit city (oh the fuse is blown? just put a higher amp rated one in...)
and things of this nature...

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Glad you are getting her back together.
I feel your wiring pain. I pulled a wire from under my dash that was 4 feet long with 3 splices in that 4 feet..

dreadnought

thats why i like carbed engines less wiring problems!!!!!!

stealth_5mge

*UPDATE*
****heres a little update about the engine I just built for the truck. It will be a long post so I'm only doing part of it now. I will edit it later and post pics****


During a grocery run, my engine threw a rod bearing, to the point that the crank was riding directly on the connecting rod bore. I was able to limp it home making some horrendous noises along the way (if you've ever stood next to a hammer mill while its running you get the idea). I'm surprised there wasn't a nice window in the side of the block by the time I got home. So I yanked the engine, tore it down to find the #1 conn rod bearing worn to the point of nonexistence, and the other 3 worn down to the copper lining, and in some spots, to the steel backing. The cylinder walls were glazed to the point of a mirror finish and the #1 piston had a large chunk missing from the slipper skirt. The oil pan had about a 3/4" deep layer of oil varnish with steel/brass/aluminum fragments embedded in it. the timing chai n had stretched beyond the tensioners ability to keep it taught and had "chainsawed" the heads off a few bolts in the timing case, meaning that I had to spin the bolts out with a centre punch. Needless to say, this engine was MILED-OUT.




Luckily, the truck came with a spare engine/trans from an '84, not so luckily, this engine was only in marginally better shape than the one I had just pulled. The deeper I got into the engine, the more work I realised it would require. Interestingly enough, for every negative I found with the new engine, there would be a corresponding positive. The bearings were worn out, but the crank journals were good. The exhaust valves were pitted, but there was enough material to lap them back to shape. The head needed refreshing, but there was no cracking and the gasket surface was true and cleaned up well.


Block Work
I used my dial bore gauge to measure the cylinder walls, and though they were glazed, the dimensions were true. So I did a 240 grit hone job with a brush research flex hone and followed up by plateauing the walls with an ultrafinish brush. This surface finish should be sufficient for a relatively quick run-in period for the moly rings that I installed. As for the bearings, once installed and plastigauged, all the radial clearances were in spec. as well as crank endplay. The deck of the block had about 0.0015" deviation when checked with a machinist staightedge, but I was able to true it up by hand with a stone to about 0.0005" (I do not recommend trying to "machine" a block by hand, It can be done but it takes a lot of patience and some precision tools). The timing case from the new engine had seen some damage from the stretched out single row timing chain, so I used the old timing case. The newer block must have been decked at some point, because the top of timing case was about 0.002" higher than the block deck, this was taken care of by gently draw-filing the case top, then lapping it, periodically test fitting and checking with a straightedge.
I also converted the engine to a dual row timing chain with steel guides (needed to use the oil pump drive spline from the old engine).


to be continued
-Head Work
-Ancillaries (32/36 DGEF install)


Teaser Pic

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Both of your projects look great. Hacked wiring is typical for these trucks, makes you wonder what the PO was thinking at the time. Truck is looking like it is coming along nicely.