scooper

Well I have horrible news folks. I just got home and had to be towed from Auburn Alabama, to Phenix City Alabama where I live. I slung a rod about 13 miles away from home and it ended up costing me 120.oo to have it towed home. The 22r i just put in did not leak a drop or make the first rattle or sound and then while on HWY 431 N.. KABOOOM

This really breaks my heart, I love my truck and after going through all this trouble just to get to drive it fore less than two months is devastating to me. I sad.. very sad.

On another note, since I still have the 20r engine and the block is not cracked on the 22r, Im going to build a Hybrid. I just need to find a good guide on one and find out what else I need for the build.

Anyone know where I can find a good rebuild kit for the 22R?
What pistions should I use if I'm going to use the 20R head?
Should I have anything special done the to stock 20R head?
Should I have anything special done to the 22R block?

Will I need any special gaskets?

Idea? Opinions? Data?

scooper

I'm sad and I can't sleep.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

for parts and advice get a hold of Ted @ http://www.engnbldr.com/

edit: also try this Google For Toyota Websites it came up with a ton of links for 20r-22r Hybrid

hybrid: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...details-97188/
found this on another forum:
This is a quick simple guide, to try and answer any questions you have about building a Hybrid 20R/22R engines. It is done in a Q&A format, and will be revised later on.

Q.) What is a Hybrid 20R/22R?
A.) A Hybrid is the process of taking of 20R head from an older 79-80 Pick-up, and putting it on to a 22R Block. There are other 20R heads but 79-80 is when they started getting mounts for power steering and the mechanical fuel pump.

Q.) What makes a 20R head superior to the 22R head?
A.) A 20R will flow for enough 6500 RPM's a 22R head will flow enough for 5500 RPM's, and uses a hemispherical combustion chamber, as opposed to the 22R's (81-84) Swirl Type, and post 85 uses closed chamber head.

Q.) Which 22R block can I use?
A.) You can use any 22R block you want as long as it's in good condition

Q.) What's the difference in 22R blocks?
A.) Well for those that don't know, in 1985 Toyota introduced EFI into their line of 4wds, in 1985 Toyota also started decking the block by 2mm and started putting dished pistons in the blocks. Prior to 1985 the blocks were 2mm taller and used partial domed pistons.

Q.) Is it a direct bolt in?
A.) That all depends if you use the early style 22R block (81-84).

Q.) What if I use a post 85 22R block?
A.) You can still build a hybrid but it's going to be a little more tricky, the head must be milled down to accept the single roller timing chain of the post 85' blocks.

Q.) How many lengths of Timing chains are there?
A.) There is 2 lengths of timing chains. 20R/22R to 1984 are longer then the post 85 Timing chain lengths due to the 22R block being decked by 2mm.

Q.) Why does the 20R have a double roller timing chain but my 22R has a single roller timing chain?
A.) Toyota still put double roller timing chains in there 22R's up to 1982, in 1983 Toyota started putting the single roller timing chain with plastic chain guides in.

Q.) Can I use the double roller timing chain?
A.) Depends if you use a post 85' block then no. If you go with a post 85' block I highly recommend DOA Racing Engines metal backed guides.

Q.) What about the valves?
A.) It's not necessary to change your valves, you can run 22R valves into a 20R head for what is called a 20R Big Valve head. You must cut the 20R valve seat to accommodate the 1.5mm larger 22R valves, the installed spring height will also be .100 shorter, you must also address this issue. I'm using stock diameter valves in my 20R head.

Q.) What else do you recommend I do?
A.) Swap over the 22R rocker assembly it is a 100% direct bolt on and use the 22R carburetor because it flows more then 20R's 190CFM.

Q.) Why should I swap the Rocker Assembly over?
A.) Because the 20R uses steel rockers, and the 22R uses aluminum.

Q.) What about the intake?
A.) You will have to use the 20R Intake, I also suggest you take it to a machine shop and have it ported.

Q.) What about the exhaust manifolds?
A.) Exhaust manifolds are interchangeable, no problems there.

scooper

Thanks OCD, I found that last night as well.

Well, here's the plans and I'm going to place the order this upcoming week.

22r block, machined, cleaned and prepped.
22r enginebuilder.com rebuild kit. Master overhaul kit
22r enginebuilder.com "crawler" cam.
20r head high ported/polished.
20r head high rev valve springs.
22r head rocker assembley.
Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Clutch kit. 1500lbs hold !!! (stock is 900)

Everything will be machined, balanced, and prepped like new.
My neighbor and I will put it all togather in his garage. He's MASTER certified
( And one of the few people who has as nice a gun collection as me. Rare )

Any other ideas or suggestions folks? While I have it all ripped apart

scooper

Got the motor out of the truck and will start disecting it in the morning. I'll take some pics and let you all know what it turns out to be and how it looks. I dont have an extreme power loss so i dont think it's too bad in there.

sa51

thats a nice little toy, cant wait to see the final product


if you're going to run 37s, i would recommend 5.29s

scooper

Here's just a few pics I took, I didnt manage to tear into the engine tonight because my bolts were not long enough to properly hold the engine onto the engine stand. I'll pick some up tomorrow and get to ripp'n her apart.

Up she goes...








The secret stash...


My friend/neighbor Matt... Automotive GENIUS..


Here's she comes...





Ohhh yeahh...



She came...






Nothing fancy, just was giving you guys an update.

scooper

Well, i found the culprit.. Anyone care to guess what cylinder it was on? Anyone .. anyone? Bueller? ..

Spun a bearing in the #2 cylinder....

Engine is completely broke down now, took some pics for you guys, if anyone has any questions or comments, they are always welcomed.

Here's where I left off the other night...



Drained the fluids and dropped the pan, If anyone looks real close you will notice that it's actually a 2WD oil pan. Now that it's off I will put the oil pan off of my 20r back on there when we it's time. The oil pan will fit with 4x4's but the drain plug is in a different location compared to the 4x4 pan.





If you look at the pan here you will see the metal flakes from where the bearing ate into the crank.. I have pics of the bearing itself as well. This is something you do not want to see when you drain your oil. When I put the 20r pan back on I will also be putting in a magnetic drain plug.



I then stamped my main caps so I can identify them and properly put them back in the same place that they came from when I get ready to put it all back together and seal it up.








Then I flipped the engine back over and started on the head. Valve cover is gone, 22r rocker assembly is shown.





Can't forget the hidden bolt that's under the distributor..





Little bit of careful prying, a few smokes, some mountain dew and ...







I then cleaned the piston tops with a wire brush and checked for marking to see if they were stock or aftermarket, usually one after market pistons they will have the size stamped on the top.. mine are all stock.



For those that are curios of where the block ID and #'s are.. there are right here, right by the oil dipstick tube.







Next i began on the front of the engine.. Timing cover, water pump, etc.

Water pump...




Oil pump...


Then timing cover..




Then I took the oil pressure sensors off the block, drain plugs.. motor mounts.. etc..

Then I flipped the engine over again and started on the crank and pistons..





Then I smoked again.. and quenched my thirst..





Here's the damge:

Scored crank:




burned up bearing:



I'm gonna go ahead and punch it .30 over, and now i have to order a crank kit as well. I'll have the crank balanced too.

freddy

waoooo nice tread. I always wanted a 1980-1983 truck.Kip em coming

AP4CHE

I wish I knew how to do all that, I have a second motor I'd like to rebuild myself so I know how everything's put together. I'm sure I could take it apart fine but the little things and certain tricks you might need to know, as well as re-assembly, are a mystery to me.

scooper

Well, i'll be honest with you, This is my first Toyota, but i have done some man ford and Chevy engines it's ridiculous. I do have to admit, If you are pretty mechanically inclined and are pretty careful to mark everything (bolt locations, etc.) This is one really easy engine to work on. It's about straight forward as they get.

83

Your engine confirms what I thought I saw in a photo of mine. The oil sending unit is behind the oil filter on these engines, instead of under it, like on the later engines. Caused a little confusion for me.

Anyways, nice work! Looking good.

stagger_lee

Thanks a lot for the pics coop! I am about to start a rebuild on a spare block I just picked up. Your pics helped immensely. And thanks to OCD for that hybrid info. Good stuff! Keep those pics comin coop!

scooper

I plan to take plenty of pics for you fellas. If the machine shop will let me, I plan to get pics of them punching the block out and everything. I'll even do some pics of the 20r head build when I get to it. All the power in these engines comes from the heads. You really don't want to skip out on the head build when rebuilding. Alot of people will bore it and put big fancy pistons in there and then they are generally disappointed when they get it all put back together at the lack of power that they thought they would get.

freddy

more...more..more!!!!

scooper

Just updating you fellas, I'm waiting for the rebuild kit to come in.

I'm getting .20 over forged pistons,
new rings
new clevite 77 bearings
new freeze plugs
new gasket set
high rev valve springs
3 angle valve job
port match intake and exhaust
little bit of head and block machining
new crank
Rods are reusable
"crawler" cam
20r head swap

Shooting for 130 -150 HP and close to 200 lbs of torq.

All i need to know now is what color to paint all the new goodies. The truck is going to be army green so Im not sure about hte block yet. Might just go orange or grey or black.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

What kind of 2 post lift ya got?

yotaboy82

HEMI ORANGE, and a chrome valve cover, chrome header, black intake and all black pullys and brackets, and a nice holly 750 4bbl carb to top it all off

scooper

It nothing fancy, I got it from a buddy who opened a garage then got smacked with a divorce soon after. He ended up selling 90% of everything he had and I got the lift off of him for 800.oo. It's rated at 12k lbs and it's all hydraulic. I didn't have to break up the concrete and put any cables or a reservoir down for it, it just bolted right it. It spoils me tho, I don't know why I didnt get one sooner.

If you want an exact name brand let me know, i'll write it down for ya, I just dont know off the top of my head. I think it was only about 1500.00 new.

scooper

But it's not a hemi! It's actually dependable.