Is anybody else turning their head sideways to look at the pictures? LOL That's a good looking engine (that means a lot coming from me too!). I'm anxious to hear how it performs

 

So am I brother, so am I...Looks like it will be late Monday evening or Tuesday..
Everything is ready....just waiting on the air injection block off plates.

 

Did the new motor not come with a new water pump?

 

Nope.....But I put one on it..

 

Do you have orange bulbs in your marker lights? It looks like it from your picture. I tried to see of there was an orange bulb I could put in and couldn't figure it out. I don't really like having clear ones.

 

I did put Orange (Yellow) bulbs in.. I bought some Ford turn signal sockets and cut the Yoda ones out. Then I wired the running light to the low side and the blinker to the high side of the bulb...Signals and running lights together.....

 

I got it fired up, but have a header leak... I've been up for more than 30 hours, so I will try again tomorrow..

 

I did get it out of the cave under its own power... Forgot to get power steering fluid. UGHHHHHHHHH..

I did experience some technical difficulties.. I will post pics and go in to more detail tonight...

 

I promised pics and an explanation of the technical difficulties..

I DO NOT WANT anyone else to have this problem, so PLEASE inspect your parts as soon as you get them. Especially if you by a product from a manufacture from a supplier..for example, Headers from Doug Thorley Headers from Summit Racing.

I had the NOT so pleasant experience of one blaming the other for the issue I experienced.. I feel Summits customer service is quick, but lacking when you have a problem.. I feel that Doug Thorley headers is NOT taking responsibility for their product.... In a nutshell the header leaked at the air injection plates. The reason they leaked is because the weld for the tube to the flange is all the way up to the air injection port.. See photo:


I called Doug Thorley directly, they said that it is the wrong header for my truck, because my truck is carbureted and that is why it leaks, even after sending them the same picture. They also informed me that they make 6 different headers for the 22R and I needed part # blah blah blah.....They also said I had to take it up with Summit. So I called Summit and explained to them what was happening with the header and gave them part # blah blah blah... I was told I would have to send my header back and would be charged a restock fee, because my header is now "USED" and cannot be sold as new. I was also told it would take 2-3 (if not more) weeks to "special order" part # blah blah blah.....

So to make a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooong story short, I YODARIGGED IT.
15 minutes with a Dremel and NO MORE LEAKS...

So please do yourself a favor and look real close BEFORE you install your parts...

RANT OVER
I also forgot to tell you, "You can't put a 85 and up 22R in a 83 truck" no doo-doo that is what I was told..

 

On a lighter note, it does run, but my oil gauge is showing zero oil pressure. I put it in the port in front of the filter this time (don't know if that is why), I will look into that more this weekend...
Out of the cave:


And the big brown santa dropped off some more goodies:
The seats

Seat belts:

The cage:

And the spark plug loom:


Looks like I have enough to keep me busy for a few days...

 

Honestly, I would skip the air injection plates. On my old headers i just welded up the holes and ground them flat - guaranteed no leaks!! Others have tapped them with 3/8" NPT threads and plugged them (seams pretty easy to do). 22R headers are finicky with pre 84, 84-85 carb, 84-85 EFI, 2WD and 22R cars. Either way, the weld shouldn't be that tight on the port on any of the different models.

On to those seats... I like them! What kind, how much and how do you plan on installing them?

 

I got the seats from C.S.E. Offroad they are for a cj or wrangler.. they're made by Rugged Ridge Black Denim Sport... They have them on sale now for $177... 10 bucks less than I paid.. lol the shipping was free and only took a few days.

Right now I have a Recaro on the drivers side and a seat out of Ranger on the passengers side... I know the recaro mount will work, and I may have to modify the Ranger mounts or come up with something else..

 

I been trying to get the oil pressure gauge to work and I finally did.. I ended up using the port below the oil filter..

On another issue, I can get it to run smooth and jump right up to 4500rpm while it is in the cave... As soon as I pull out on the road, it falls on its face.. I know it is something simple, but I am baffled...

 

So it idels fine but you try and drive it, it dies?

 

Falls flat on its face....Sputters, spits, coughs, & gags... I got it back to the shop and went to check the float level.. It is perfect on the secondary's, but I can't see any fuel on the primary's.. I am gonna try again this evening..

 

That's weird. Are you running a weber or Holley? Have you checked the timing?

 

I have a Holley on it now with the Offenhauser intake..
The timing is dead on at 5 degrees....

Any ideas will help.

 

Well I gave up... I set the float level to where Holley says it needs to be.. Air / fuel mixture set with a vacuum gauge and the timing is at 5 degrees with the vacuum advance closed off... It idles beautifully and revs up smoothly while in the shop.... as soon as I try to take off it goes straight to the crapper.. I'm gonna load it up and take it to the guy who gave me the truck in the first place.. He raced 4 cylinder stock cars, so I'll let him give it a whirl..

I'm tired of working on the engine and want to go wheeling.......Then when we tear my buddies Jeep down, I can start on the interior cage and seats...

 

The decision was made to put the stock intake and Weber back on for the break in period.. Donnie (the guy that helps when I can't figure something out ) has to have a heart cath. next Friday (pray for him please) he feels it is something simple that I am over looking.. He wants to get it broke in then put the cam, distributor, carb and intake back on... Then set everything at once... and DERN IT I wanna WHEEL...

 

My opinion is that you should break it in with the hot cam, as the rocker contact pad has to be broken in WITH the cam that will be used, not the stock one. Some cam manufacturers recomend changing the rockers when upgrading the cam just for that. I also don't see why you would change the setup for break-in since essentially all that is needed is to seat the rings and have the cam properly ''mate'' with the rockers. It is more important that you don't run too rich to wash the oil from the cylinder walls which would cause the rings to not seat properly, not too lean also. Also not to run it for too long on idle and not to rev the motor if the rings have not seated. Remember a motor that has a strong break-in will be a strong running motor!