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I recently found and bought a 81' SR5 4x4 short bed with minimal rust and i'm very excited! The 22r inside had a rebuild 12k miles ago, but the last owner ran it hot for many miles and blew the head gasket and likely caused more damage(to be determined).
I was able to find a cheap enough 22r that i was hoping to be able to just swap in its place, while i repaired /rebuilt the original so i could take my time. The issues i'm running to right away is i can see there are different electrical plugs and i'm wondering what is needed to modify these to make this work? also curious what year these engines are as sensors/plugs seem to be different? The truck! Engine to swap in (was told out of an 84) unknown miles/ running well Plugs on engine inside the truck Plugs on (84) swap 81? engine in truck More plugs on 84 swap Sensor locations on engine in truck, top left one seems to be placed where bottom right sensor is on (84) Swap Two empty plugs in truck (there are many more wires with no ends not hooked to anything)
Any insight to what year engines i am working with here? Are there adapter kits to connect these plugs?
Thanks in advance!
Jack
i believe i have figured out the wires, I switched the plugs on the distributor, along with moving what seems to be the pressure sensor to the spot on the other engine, as well as adding the other sensor to the swap engine.
Swap seems to missing this piece outlined in yellow, is this needed?
That's the EGR and vacuum modulator and you can remove it and buy plates from LCE or Low Range Off Road. It will be more difficult to pass emissions if you have to do that sort of thing.
That's the EGR and vacuum modulator and you can remove it and buy plates from LCE or Low Range Off Road. It will be more difficult to pass emissions if you have to do that sort of thing.
The swap is done, engine is running good, and i think all my wires found their homes, and even more with the temp gauge now connected/working!
When i bought the truck the previous owner was surprised when the headlights, horn and hazard lights were not working, and said the last time she had drove it everything was working fine.
After reading this post, and many others, i assume there is a problem in the steering column ( switch?), but i have not read anything about all three of these going out at once?
I have checked both circle relay near the steering column and they both seem to be functioning, with the drivers side being hot (tail lights, blinkers, running lights have been working), but the pass. side being cold. I then swapped the relays and had the same result so I assume they are working.
When checking the fuse box under the dash, the fuses for all 3(both headlights, hazard/horn) are not receiving power but all the fuses are good.
Is there a certain spot you would check first? is the steering column switches for each of these the first place to check for bad ground etc?
the three on right side of fuse box has no power to it. could this corrosion on the lever be the issue? left side works, right side has no power to it rest of wiring looks good to me no corrosion, where would i start to finding the power, i'm having much trouble with this.
i am very confused here, would be wonderful if someone can point me in the general right dicrection
I would first check the fusible link at the battery. Do a continuity or power check from the battery to the any one of the 3 fuses with a jumper wire, possibly through a red/blue wire on the right side of engine bay through the fire wall. Look at the fusible link for any bubbling of the outside shield and move it around feeling for knot like areas or breaks. If bad, replace the fuse link
That would be a start, check that those three fuses are good. If everything checks good, then the headlight relay socket may be corroded or the relay is bad itself. By the looks of the relays, corrosion might be the culprit if all other items check good
I would first check the fusible link at the battery. Do a continuity or power check from the battery to the any one of the 3 fuses with a jumper wire, possibly through a red/blue wire on the right side of engine bay through the fire wall. Look at the fusible link for any bubbling of the outside shield and move it around feeling for knot like areas or breaks. If bad, replace the fuse link
That would be a start, check that those three fuses are good. If everything checks good, then the headlight relay socket may be corroded or the relay is bad itself. By the looks of the relays, corrosion might be the culprit if all other items check good
Awesome, thank you so much Lons this helped big time! When i went to find where the fusible links were i found them missing, and two green circle plug style fusible links(one single with the red/blue wire, and another double with the other two wires) for the 3 hot wires coming off the positive side of the battery i believe in their place. All three of these had much corrosion, and the headlight (red/blue) wire was hanging by a thread inside its connector before the fusible link. Before i found the nearly separated section, i was able to clean the prior connections enough for the headlights to come on very dimly, and at the same time, all the dash/turn signals, and hazards dimmed and barley started to function, and after 30 seconds everything stopped.
After replacing these two fusible links with three new 30a fusible links (shown below), i attempted to reconnect to the battery, but immediately had spark on the red/blue wire and the flasher relay on the passenger side kick panel began to click over and over. The other two wires have no spark when attached, and the dash comes on and when i try to start the truck without the red/blue wire, but all i get is a starter click like a dead battery?
Did i ruin the flasher relay by sending to low of voltage though this before i had replaced them? was it a bad idea to replace the corroded fusible links with these new type? does this sound like a bad ground somewhere to you?
Thanks again so much in advance, feel like we were very close to having this figured out! the three new 30a links the clicking relay
Well thanks Punjab and Lons clearing up those questions i had, and giving a good place to start for testing back from the battery. The clicking was the hazard sticking on turned off and on a few times and it stopped, explains the draw and spark i think when plugging in the wire, why the truck wouldn't start all those times still i have no idea, i just cleaned and redid all the connections, new links seem to be working, lights working, truck starting each time, now for the final long range tests see how engine is doing/everything holds up.
Jul 28, 2019 | 01:09 PM
turned off and on a few times and it stopped, explains the draw and spark i think when plugging in the wire, why the truck wouldn't start all those times still i have no idea, i just cleaned and redid all the connections, new links seem to be working, lights working, truck starting each time, now for the final long range tests see how engine is doing/everything holds up.
