wow that explains a lot since in the 80s I was buying idf's at under 5 for a pair then they started rising fast and I always bought Italian because those are what my dad ran

 

One day I will run twin 45 dcoe on this truck, it has always been a dream of mine. Someone in the 84-85 forum adapted a honda wiring harness, distributor and ecu to his 22re, wich I'm very familiar with, and has many tuning platforms for endless precise adjustments, that's also something I would like to do, again one day,

Does following the tracking number and the location of my weber 5 times a day help make it arrive faster or slower?

 

I am running a mallory hyfire 6al box
MSD red blaster coil
Mallory unilite distributor
A mallory resistor #700
And a mallory unilite power spike unite to help save the distributor

 

finally, here she is folks, isn't she a beauty?





Cab bolted down with original bushings and a leftover set of urethane bushings I have from an old honda suspension kit, it's super solid and everything fits really well. Today I'm doing a big clean up of the garage, floors and all, I want it real clean for next week since I'll be spending my week there (holidays). I hope to have it fired up by the end of the week but we'll see!

 

Wow sweet lots of inspiration

 

What a great week, I was on holidays and spent all my days an nights in the garage, with beer, pipe tobacco, and good music it was awesome and time went by too fast!

Drop drag link installed, nice piece.



I installed my transdapt adapter which is a nice piece too but the holes didn't quite line up and I didn't like the transition it was not smooth, I didn't like the surface finish so Igot out my dremel.



After


Started assembling the interior


My suntune (before sunpro) gauges I got on ebay for 17$, new in its box circa 1984.


Where I hooked up my oil pressure gauge








ford taurus electric fan with original shroud, connected to an adjustable controller to adjust temperature (more pics of that later).


Suzuki swift gt seats before pressure wash, no pics yet of after the was will get some today



pre-pump fuel filter easily visible and easy access to see if there is any crap in it.


Bad pic of the routing of the fuel pump, 14 gau wires with connectors, 45 degree fittings (surprisingly hard to get around here...).


FINALLY, my weber 38 DGES!!







Something people often forget when they use a weber is this:

3.5 psi or 3psi max with float level adjusted 18mm for agressive or off-road driving, it is also important not to turn in the idle screw more than 0.5 turns since it unblocks an enrichment circuit and runs like crap.



Again the fit wasn't perfect with the adapter plate, got out the dremel again...


finally installed


A lot more got finished since the last picture, I'm going back tonight I'll take picture of my hose routing, wiring, regulator, fan controller, etc...

I've got a present for you all coming in a couple of minutes...

 

So, motor got ready to start, fuel pump relay made etc.. will show pics of that later
I took out the plugs, cranked for about 3 minutes with a fully charged battery, 10 secs at a time and 10 secs pause, and got no oil pressure. I did not prime the oil pump (i.e. with vaseline) during reassembly only engine oil, and that was 5 months ago, and it's something I should have done. So I said ˟˟˟˟ it I'm not taking everything appart and I tried to start it, you can see it in the video, the first 5 seconds it runs with no oil pressure, my girlfriend shouts it's got no oil coming out the oil press gauge tube so I shut it off, then I said ˟˟˟˟ it again I started it again (not on video), then it got oil pressure right away, turned the camera back on and started it two more times. I didn't let it run because it was 1 am windows closed, monday I'm getting a new thermostat and I'll be letting it run and tuning the weber and bleeding coolant. I had trouble sleeping even after spending 14 hours in the garage, man that was a good moment!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZv0...ature=youtu.be

 

Pics from today


I'm gonna get some super clean to wash them again.





coolant hose to heater


Ajustable fan controller




Custom L shaped pedal for heel and toe, why? because racetruck.







Monday I'm getting my toyota thermostat and I will be starting her up for good and adjusting fuel pressure, timing and adjusting the carb and the radiator fan I'll let her run for a while and really see how she sounds. Wednesday I'm getting some parts from rockauto so next update should be good too and the first test drive should be in 2-3 weeks!!

 

So last evening I got my toyota thermostat, put coolant in (60% water with an additive), started it up and let it run about 30 mins total but I ran into some problems:

1, the fuel pressure would fluctuate between 1.5 and 3.5 psi, and not in a constant way, I think I had too little fuel in the tank (3.5 litres) so I'll check that again, however the pump was still cold and did not seem to strain or suck air, through the first fuel filter we could see the gas flowing in pulsations. Will check again tomorrow with more gas but I'm not sure it will fix it we'll see.

2. Motor ran well only with the distributor fully retarded only, as soon as I moved it the slightest it would stumble, my timing light did not work so I couldn't check timing, I'll check again tomorrow with another timing light to see if I'm not a tooth off. When I removed the cap at tdc the rotor is pointing straight to number 1 cyl.
I'll need to look in the fsm since I don't understand the marking on the cover (0,85,??), if anybody has any tips feel free to chime in.

3 it overheated, first because I didn't put the right fuse in the fan wiring (7.5 instead of 15)...it went to 210 and 220 after we shut it off. Then with the fan working and adjusted at it's lowest point, it would come on at 210 and stop at 185. Engine ran hot all of its 30 mins and it was still at 140 when I left 1h30 after shutting it off ...seemed to be bled well too...The probe on the fan controller is put through the fins of the rad as close as possible to the rad entry. If anybody has a trick to make it started lower like adding a resistance or something I'd be happy to know.

On the up side I received many nice parts today, so there will be progress this week!

 

1 - if you don't want to fill the tank, try feeding it out if a gas can. With that little amount of fuel, you were likely sucking up air. The fuel pump technically does pulse, but not slow enough for your to see it in the fuel filter.

2 - the timing marks are 5, 8 and 12. Those are the degrees of advance. You should be at 5* BTDC at 950 max RPM with the advance cut. 5* is a base for me to start. I get it to 5* and advance it until it runs better - for my engine, it was around 8* before I rebuilt it. It will likely be even more after my rebuild.

3 - I wouldn't mess with the resistence in the temperature sender, I would get the proper sender. Plus, you should have the sender IN THE COOLANT, not close to the radiator. The way you have it you're essentially measuring the ambient temperatur under the hood, not the water temperature. That can be a considerable difference. You should also have a bypass switch wired to the fan so you have control if your sender fails.

 

Thanks Dave, I'll answer in the same order

1- Yeah it probably was sucking air, I didn't see bubbles through the glass filter, no did the sound of the pump change, but with that little amount it most likely is the problem, will be ruled out tomorrow

2- that explains a lot, I think the 12 is missing from mine, that way it'll be pretty easy

3- the sender is made to be put through the fins of the radiator and not in the coolant (like a water temperature gauge sender), it would be a lot better if it were in the coolant but I don't see how I can do that appart from making a hole in the rad and stick the sender in there with epoxy. In the reviews everybody seems pleased so I must be doing something wrong. Oh and yes the switch was brought up by my friend too it is a good idea, not sure if I'll put it on by the end of the month though!

 

You don't have to put the sender in the radiator, you can use any coolant bung on the block, head or intake manifold.

 

Kawa is right remember keep it as high on the engine as possible and as close to the front as possible

 

I don't understant how I can place it inside the coolant stream, since it is a cylindrical probe with a fine metal wire, no threads, no fitting, like this:



So I don't see how it can be done without epoxy, if I slide the probe in a radiator hose I'm scrared of breaking it when tigntening the clamp.

I've been doing some reading and apparently normal operating temperatures is about 195-205f, do you guys agree? So I may not even touch the fan controller anymore if I don't have to?

 

Just change the sensor switch to a bung style

 

X2 I would never use an ambient sensor like that

 

Allright guys thanks for the tip, I'll what I'll do for now we'll see how it works I'm really running out of money and time!
off to the garage for another afternoon/evening of fun!

 

does it have a bypass switch that you can control from inside the cab? If you are going with that sender for now, then I would make sure that you have a way of turning on the fan whenever you need it instead of relying on a sender. Or you could just wire it to the ignition switch and just have it running whenever the engine is on for now just to be safe

 

the probe just "pokes" threw the rad fins . really common , I have similar on my Trekker , and it works great


.

 

You guys are missing a big part, that's because I've been working on this thing every evenings and nights and week-ends to get it ready for the big trip tomorrow.

VICTORY!!!








There's still a lot that needs to be done but it is safe and registered and packed and ready to hit the road tomorrow for 300+km, 4 days of trail/camping and back. It drives great, engine consumes a lot of oil but pulls strong and is very responsive although I need to upsize the jets and it is only timed at 6 degrees. It sounds mean and is a lot of fun to drive with the welded rear diff, it drives in a very unique way and using the throttle in the curves is what makes it pivot, hard to explain, but I love it!