So I snagged some 30s to try out for size, (used) and I'm tired of my rusty 15x8 chrome wheels. I like the simple, utility look of the spare wheel under my truck, and I have one to match it, so that means I only need two more. Is there any reason not to run these wheels, or the combo? If anybody here's done this, how did it work out, tire wear, wheel issues, etc.? If they aren't intended for full time use, DD-ing, fire roading, I probably won't use 'em. I'll get some pictures up here this evening.
(Never did, but see below. Super tight funding had me delay everything)

 

I've run 33x9.50 tires on 15x6 wheels for many years now and they work quite well:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/BFG_AT_KO.shtml

Only downside is you can't air them down much below about 15psi.

 

Wow, I've read all thru your pages and should have seen that months ago. I know you're lifted to clear the 33's, do you get any rub (other than fenders maybe), or what kind of offset/backspace do your wheels have?

Edit..I see stock wheels, so I get the answer..

 

So getting my wheels together, got stripped, primed and rattle canned black.


Now to get valve stems in, and spoon my new used tires on. Searching for info on valve stem sizes, but I just get engine valve specs. Do any tire guys know what size valve stem to use? I have no idea, and there's apparently at least 4 different sizes. I'm lost. More to come!

 

So before I get started, let me say...it's probably worth it to pay a shop to do all this! Spooning one tire on and off, ok, not too bad....4 sucks.

Things I needed..
-Soapy water in old windex bottle
-Tire spoons
-wheels and tires
-valve cores
-air source
-PATIENCE (low on that stuff, must get more)
-a dictionary of language unfit to print here
Those spoons, they're older than me. Harbor freight carries some better ones, and there's even better ones than that available elsewhere.

The valve stems, were $1.69 at Knechts, 4 blocks away. You need the ones marked TR-413 on the butt (inner) end of the stem, for the 15x6JJ, stamped steel wheels. Like these!


You can find videos online of how to spoon tires onto a rim, the harder part is getting them OFF the rim. But finesse over brute force, and take your time. Helps to use LOTS of soapy water, and do it in the sun. Soft rubber gives up easier.
This is what I started with, they're ugly. Once upon a time, they were pretty chrome wheels. Neglect leaves this. I didn't like it, truck's ugly enough.



More tomorrow, I'm done for the night. Finished pictures tomorrow. Hopefully.

 

All done! Went from the rusty gross wheels above, with bald, stretched-to-fit 235/75s to some decent 30" tires. No noticeable difference, just quieter and a little softer ride. My saggy butt needs help, and it'll get better.
After:


It'll take a bit to get used to the skinnier look of these wheels n tires, and I think the 235s on 8" wheels with lots of backspace helped my cornering. It feels like a 4x4 in corners now. Will need to replace one stud on LF, snapped it off removing the old wheel. I'll limp around town with 5 there til next week. Need balancing, too.
The pick n pull yard rendered a cheap score, filled in the blank hole by the heater controls. Another doodad! Got like, an extra 8 HP on top, too!

 

Sweet, I used to run those steel wheels and loved them. I think running plain stock wheels give trucks the stripped down ready for action look or a little of a military look I guess. Who needs bling "look at me, I'm a drug dealer" wheels.

 

I guess I need to do an alignment now. It pulls just a wee bit, (left) and kind of has a dead feel to it. Hard to explain. The last alignment was in 09, for the relay rod recall, and they said I would need a new idler arm (I think it was) but they got it pretty close. The lack of backspace now, with squishier tires may make it more pronounced. Now, can you get a decent alignment with a saggy butt, or should I fix that first? I know it'll maybe change the caster angle a little bit. But I hate to align it, fix butt sag, and align again...any idears?