Camping, Expedition, & Overlanding Gear Discussion pertaining to outfitting yourself with gear for the great outdoors

irab88's 1983 Coleman Sun Valley Build-Up Thread

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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 09:22 AM
  #261  
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Had a thought... not sure if I had it before lol... with the axle flip how much extra length left over do you have with the corner feet?
IK they usually have a little more length to allow for uneven ground but with the flip you may have lost that allowance... you may want to be sure to carry a few blocks of wood to provide for uneven surfaces... you may even want to use some blocks anyway I remember when camping as a kid seeing some trailers tip over when they were set up on soggy ground after a bad rain storm... some blocks would spread the load over a wider area and prevent this.
They would'nt need to be anything crazy... some squares made of 4 pieces of 2x4 would probably be enough... UK 4 pieces cris-crossed on top of each other glued and screwed...
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #262  
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not infinite, but i do have a bit of room to play with. i will probably be welding extensions on, since they flip out of the way.

thanks for that

and kind of an update:
for the outer trip, i was thinking of using "T" channel on it's side, along with some press-n-stick gasket on the inside edge. like this:



that would replace all the trim that's there now
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #263  
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aviator- something like this:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech...ml#post5415050
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:01 PM
  #264  
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Wow, good thread link there! He's goin all out like yourself, eh? Like his wood work, and the LED lighting isn't a bad idea.

Excited for ya, Ian... looking good/good plans.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 04:01 PM
  #265  
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I see... so you're going to switch to frame mounted legs instead of the current ones that slip into the body? Cause if you are planning on extending them you may run into clearance issues inside the trailer body.

That trim/edge idea looks good... I'd use some marine grade Urethane sealant around the outer and bottom edge and rivet the bottom side to the roof frame, then stick on that rubber seal. That will give you a clean visible edge appearance and eliminate any spots where rust will want to start... the urethane will also give you some "flexibility" to allow for expansion and contraction of the roof from heat/cool cycles during the day/seasons.
Unless you are going to use the edge to help secure the roof skin to the frame in that case I'd go to it with SS rivets as well.
All you'd need is a few beers to pay a buddy from the A&P course to buck for you...
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 04:51 PM
  #266  
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the legs are frame mounted. the bottom of the frame is flush with the bottom of the side panels, making it look like the legs are in the body. i have plenty of room

i'll be sealing everything up, not to worry

i can't rivet the bottom up into the frame, as there's nothing to rivet to

aluminum and ss seem like they'd be more corrosion-prone than al and al (dissimilar metals vs. similar metals). plus, i already have 400 al rivets

solid rivets are not an option. there is no place to get a bucking bar inside the aluminum channel. unless i cut the backside off

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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:55 PM
  #267  
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Well if you've got AL rivets no worries then... as for the dissimilar metals there is a goop you can get to prevent the galvanic corrosion issue.

as for the no bucking room just use blind rivets like you'd use on a control surface/thin wing section... probably a better option than simple pop rivets...
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 04:17 AM
  #268  
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i thought pop rivets were blind rivets... what kind of rivet are you thinking of? cherry? mechanical?
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 06:06 AM
  #269  
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Wish I had the equiment and skills to fab. Been following your thread for awhile. We really enjoy camping and your thread just makes the itch that much worse. Looking great and great job.
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 06:13 AM
  #270  
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i really don't have that many "special" tools. i'm borrowing a welder, which i'm almost done with, and all the aluminum was cut with either a dremel, chop saw, band saw, or hack saw. everything else is parts or standard tools.

the hardest part is getting time to do it. i can't work on it any during the next two weekends because of my clutch. but i know that i can get a lot done if i have a weekend of nothing but metalworking

so go find one of your own! scratch that itch! haha
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 01:04 PM
  #271  
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last of the parts came in! woo!

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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #272  
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Gonna be a sweet trailer, Ian... stoked for ya!
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 05:29 AM
  #273  
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From: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
Originally Posted by irab88
i thought pop rivets were blind rivets... what kind of rivet are you thinking of? cherry? mechanical?
Yeah Cherry rivets...
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #274  
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yeah, that's what i got 400 of

went to the dulles rv show today... $7 all day +free re-entry +6 issues of a magazine. pretty sweet. a little lacking in the pop-up department, but some really nice rigs, nonetheless
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #275  
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I may be too late and I read through the posts and didn't see an answer about those plastic clips from the first page.

Those are to hold an ice box that came with the trailer. I have an '82 Shenandoah that looks very similar to yours, same fabric and everything. I can take a picture of the ice box if you want, but I've never even used mine.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 05:00 AM
  #276  
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yeah, i found it on another forum, thanks!

and actually, if you don't use yours, i'm interested in purchasing it
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 06:27 AM
  #277  
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Originally Posted by irab88
yeah, i found it on another forum, thanks!

and actually, if you don't use yours, i'm interested in purchasing it
My garage is a mess and it actually may be behind about a cord of firewood, but I'll take a look this weekend and if I find it, I'll send you some pics.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 05:43 AM
  #278  
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great, thanks!
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 11:35 PM
  #279  
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Cool build. Thanks for sharing.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 09:36 AM
  #280  
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Trailer bumper sticker idea

The Shagin' Wagon
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