did this swap many years ago i went with sas on my 86 excab problem with ifs is the clearance on the oil pan and the k member i believe that there is a dished oil pan but if you plan it and you know a welder modifications are always possible as for motor mounts i just did solid mount welded right to the frame and electrical well just google your model yota with 350 chevy and its out there fairly simple

 

can anyone give me advice on how to install a tbi system in my yota or what all is going to be required and required to do? i know i have to get the wiring harrness but which one?, also the computer and throttle body. how do i do the fuel system, do i install the chevy gas tank and pump? thanks for the help

1988 toyota ext cab straight axled dana 44 front/ 12 bolt gear 4.88 350/400th/np208

 

hello everyone havnt been on here in 2 years . I have a question hope some body could point me in the right direction. my 91 p/u has been blowing head gaskets ( whats new)
i bought a used motor put that in 30k miles later HG blows !!!! so i got totally fed up and im done with the 3vze and Toyotas failed design in this motor. i have a ton of labor and $$ in my truck rearend, wiring, paint body tires, welding fab work . Im not just going to lay down and say here California take my truck to the junk yard.
If i can get a 350 diesel motor run it on Bio diesel get a permit from the state to do the swap ( biodiesel has very low emissions) i think this might be possible and id have one badass pickup thats powerful small and light .
i welcome everybodys. comments im good with a welder and plasma cutter and a big hammer !

 

how do you get by the smog laws???

 

No smog where I live!

 

i am stuck with smog laws . I called the CARB TODAY calif air resource board
they recommended i convert it to CNG gas then of course i have to have it fully inspected no fuel tank etc then i can qualify for a carpool sticker but i could then switch it back to gas powered , im a bit of a red neck in terms of my fabrication skills im lucky i have a nice plasma cutter and a nice lincoln welder. well money really aint a factor as ive had my rig for 7 years now and i was thinking if i had to buy a new toyota id spend 18-22k so WTF why not buy a 350 motor and trans and for about 10K have a whoop ass super powerful truck with no smog and cheap insurance and cheap registration.

 

I'm in the process of upgrading my 22RE to a chevy 400 small block, I also removed the IFS and mocked up a straight front axle from an earlier yoda. What company would you guys recommend going with as far as the straight front axle conversion kit goes given the fact that im going to need one that accommodates the extra weight of the small black chevy.

 

i have a 1980 toy 4x4 p/u that in 1980 i put in a 350 chev and a tb350 trans i used a stock toy transfercase and to this day that case is still in there and working great, theres a nuber of adapterplates out there that work great

 

ive about had it with this v6 in my grossly underpowered 91 ive decided i cant afford to plonk down 20k for a new truck,,, so im going to put a chevy 350 in there and also go and make me a flat bed ( increase the width and length of be bed by a foot).Since ivh had this truck for 10 years now ive had heating problems radiator after radiator seems to crack, i have just bought a millermatic 200 mig welder and plasma cutter so im ready for some serious work Being i live in CA i have to worry about smog laws but not to worry i have that plan figured out (costly you need a secondary pre 75 pickup) I love the 91 dearly it fits me perfectly its not too big and is great at hauling stuff as long as you dont mind waiting 3 mins to get to 70 mph !!
im going to put the Trail gear lift kit for the back and a solid axle on the front so any tips are greatly appreciated ive been a long time member here but im more of a reader listener than a talker ,i could also use some tips on how to post pictures on here

 

Wow, a lot SBC action going on here. As one who's been there and done it, I suggest a call to Marlin (marlin crawler) for advice and parts for the SAS. Advance Adapters has any adapter needed for these swaps and I also have been running the stock gear driven transfer case with the 700R4. Keep it simple. I can't comment on which springs to use to hold up an iron block 350 as mine is aluminum. And check the weight of the diesel before going one step further with that. Get busy!

 

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I actually have an 88 with a sbc350 and a turbo 400 with the np 205

 

got my 350 fully dressed out and with 1 1/2 suspension blocks in the front and i have no spongy feeling in the front end at all actually it rides better than with the 4cyl with the suspension blocks. whats happening with the blocks is its pre-loading the torsion bars and when the 4cyl was in it rode like a brick. also i read a lot about having to do a body lift and cave in my firewall for the distrib. but after getting the v8 in i call BS on having to do a body lift. mine is in a stock 91 single cab with IFS front end and everything went in fine fit fine as well the only struggle (and not much) was the drivers side exhaust but used stock cast iron manifolds and some of my 40+ years of welding fabrication skills it was no match,

 

so i am putting a 1989 pickup body on a 78 k20 frame and for now all the wireing has been pretty stright forward but as to finding the wires for the rpm, temp, and oil pressure on the toyota harness its a bit confusing. I also dont have the engine harness or ecu in the truck anymore as it has a 350sb all i have for toyota harness is the interior cab harness and the 2 connecters that go to the engine harness some help would be greatly appreciated

Green yellow white red purple white black green white Black green black red 12 gauge distributor power blue Yellow black black white green blue

Green yellow black red blue yellow green black orange red white yellow blue Black green white black white

This is the project

 

You need to forget about the toyos wire harness and ECU, TACH, all that. You can build yourself a snazzy new cluster on a piece of flat 1/8" aluminium all polished up. You can get the tach, water temp and oil pressure gauges in a row just put them into your aluminum background anyway you want it to fit. That toyo will not work with you on that.. treat it like an ex girlfriend. People may joke about the quality of the aftermarket gauges at poopboys and autobone but theyre actually not bad and if you dont have big money to buy autometer then theyre a pretty good choice. They even come with instructions not written or with the grammar of the heathen chinee. Your ECU is gonna have to come from the same source as the engine or one of the same year and model. I did an engine swap for this guy a little while ago and not only had his motor been shot out but everything else as well. I told him I could get it running old school anbd not have to worry about the ECU and the MAP and throttle position sensor and all that garbage but it wouldnt smog... ever. I did it for him, but youd be surprised at how engines these days are actually spoiled for that sweet little cold start up and sound great the entire range of its temperature band. I dont know if everyone or any one of you remembers back in the day where cars had to 'warm up'. I have a 75 Ranchero with a built 429 pushing close to 600HP and I tell you that bitch is downright nasty till she gets her dose of heroin (I likened my car to this girl I went out with back in the day, she was a real heroin addict and lemme tell ya, she was like night and day. In the morning I was every kind of piece of s**t but after I took her to get her dose she was as sweet as pie, you know where im going with this.. Dont quite remember what happened with her, but you understand there have been hundreds not heroin addicts, lol) Getting back to your hot rod truck, nows the time to become creative once you get your electrical sorted out. Dont worry about your toyo lights and horn and such, the wires will still be the same just diff color. I have a few plymouth relays, a couple of chevy parts, and my front blinkers were on my Harley before I got rid of it. So its kind of a frankenstein.

That was an earlier pic of it, I have most of my pics on my phone, oddly enough..

Theres a shot of my beater before I painted it in my driveway...

its got 2 batteries, one for the 1300 watt stereo, K&N filter, mild cam, hedman headers, 2 and a quarter downpipe, stage one clutch, flowmaster 10 muffler. This truck was only 2500 lbs before I added that ridiculous sound system. Still beats the stock 6 cyl toyota trucks all day long. Oh yea 84 celica bucket seats.I have to admit I'm on my 7th tranny. I drive hard..

 

89 extended cab with a chevy 305 sm block with a chevy TH400 Trans & 205 t case. It will fit. I have only a 3in body lift

 

Sorry to revive and old thread, if necesaary I can start a new one.

Working on a 350 SBC swap on a 1989 Toyota 4x4, 1 Ton, V6, manual transmission.

Using a EFI crate motor to replace the V-6.

Advance adaptors for bell and associated components.

Currently has 3" body lift and 4-5 inch suspension lift is in process.

While installing the suspension lift I'm replacing (as needed) and servicing all drivetrain components along the way.

Ball joints inner and outer tie rods.
Leaf springs, Brake Rotor, Shoes, Drums, Calipers.

Overall platform is very solid and I've been impressed by the quality of many or driveline original equipment is in excellent condition after 36 years.

Have about 99% of what is needed for the swap and plan to run a GM one wire alt and retrofit an AC compressor to existing factory lines and use factory ac components for remainder of assembly (if clearances are not a problem).

Plan to run a 35" tire,
has 32" on it already with the 3" body lift only.

If anyone has any guidance or short curs to offer. any input would be appreciated.