1987 22RTE to 5.3L LM7 ("iron block ls1") Swap
#142
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Well with one of those too but you can re-drill and lower it even more than that if you need the space. How is your swap going by the way? We havn't heard from you in a while.
Last edited by Krazy Ken; 03-11-2014 at 01:46 PM.
#143
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MrArmyAnt,
A quick question about the body lift: Was the body lift needed to clear the oil pan? or was it to clear enough room to plumb the exhaust, fit the tranny, and other drive-line issues? The reason I ask is that I already have a 3 inch bracket lift that I have not installed yet that would essentially drop the Diff down 3 inches. I’ve been following your build for a while now. Thanks for any insight you might have!
A quick question about the body lift: Was the body lift needed to clear the oil pan? or was it to clear enough room to plumb the exhaust, fit the tranny, and other drive-line issues? The reason I ask is that I already have a 3 inch bracket lift that I have not installed yet that would essentially drop the Diff down 3 inches. I’ve been following your build for a while now. Thanks for any insight you might have!
#147
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It was to clear the diff. That might solve that problem but you might get a new one with the steering box and alternator depending on what brackets you use. I have the Corvette accessory line which is a must, and the place I got the bracket from dropped the alternator to the bottom, and I had to ditch ym HD alternator and go for a camaro one, then get an elbo for the steering box -.-. I might change the belts to the upper side soon as I would like to add AC and either an SC or turbo in the future.
MrArmyAnt,
A quick question about the body lift: Was the body lift needed to clear the oil pan? or was it to clear enough room to plumb the exhaust, fit the tranny, and other drive-line issues? The reason I ask is that I already have a 3 inch bracket lift that I have not installed yet that would essentially drop the Diff down 3 inches. I’ve been following your build for a while now. Thanks for any insight you might have!
A quick question about the body lift: Was the body lift needed to clear the oil pan? or was it to clear enough room to plumb the exhaust, fit the tranny, and other drive-line issues? The reason I ask is that I already have a 3 inch bracket lift that I have not installed yet that would essentially drop the Diff down 3 inches. I’ve been following your build for a while now. Thanks for any insight you might have!
#149
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#151
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I'll take some next time I'm out at the shop. It's in a field, I've had to do constant work on my Z4 and Excursion. Still waiting on delivery of the harness. And this is the 3rd custom radiator I've ordered that wasn't made to specs. Need to find someone local who has an AC tig welder so I can at least plumb the cooling. Then I have the harness, front drive shaft, and the interesting fuel system.
#152
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I have been working with Bill Hillock of BP Automotive for a few years now to get an LS harness made for my L33 swap into a gen I 4runner. Orginally the kit looked good for 600 dollars plus my harness, decent fuses, etc. Service was slow, turn around was about 3 months. I then moved, got settled in a new shop, and started back on the project. I wasn't happy with the fitment, adjusted the lengths of wires as I wanted them and said I'd pay his 50 an hour in bench labor rate to have them adjusted. After calling and emailing weekly for 4 months, he finally answered after screening all of his calls and said sorry he's swamped it should only be an hour of work or I can give you a Camaro harness as thats about the same length because someone else used it on deposit and backed out. Said he was fine doing it for me saying in the forums how resilient his setup was, etc. (which it is) I said fine. Another month passes by, I start messaging him by personal email, business email, eBay messaging, and Facebook with no response. After a threat to post about his business practices online after a month of emailing weekly I received my harness back in the mail with ends missing, no work done.
If anyone would like his emails as proof, phone records, or all of the emails he refused to respond to (which by the way if you call his number he states he only responds via email) I would be happy to provide them.
STAY AWAY AT ALL COSTS. He promises a lot and delivers nothing. I'm out about a years worth of time and about 600 dollars.
Name: Bill Hillock
BP Automotive
Website: http://www.bp-automotive.com
Storefront: http://shop.bp-automotive.com
eBay: http://stores.ebay.com/BP-Automotive-and-Wiring
If anyone would like his emails as proof, phone records, or all of the emails he refused to respond to (which by the way if you call his number he states he only responds via email) I would be happy to provide them.
STAY AWAY AT ALL COSTS. He promises a lot and delivers nothing. I'm out about a years worth of time and about 600 dollars.
Name: Bill Hillock
BP Automotive
Website: http://www.bp-automotive.com
Storefront: http://shop.bp-automotive.com
eBay: http://stores.ebay.com/BP-Automotive-and-Wiring
Last edited by MrArmyAnt; 10-16-2014 at 05:17 PM.
#153
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I am sorry to hear about your problems with your harness. I used PSI conversions with my harness. The LS motor uses a stand alone harness and runs without any of the Toyota stuff if you don't want. It was pretty simple and he gives you thorough instructions. Basically besides the obvious Core sensors, Maf, map, o2, etc. you hook up fuel pump, switched power (ignition) and battery and it runs. Only other wiring I had to do was run wires for the stock toyota guages so that everything on my dash is functional. I think all in all I had to wire a total of 12-15 wires. I'm currently just shy of 10,000 miles since March and think it's great. I hope you can sort out your wiring issues so you can get out and enjoy your truck!
#154
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Well unfortunately due to frustration with the harness I have killed this project and the shell has been sold you another 4Runner nut in the area and this motor will sit on a shelf in my warehouse until something comes a long to put it in.
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