Hey, I found a bolt up solution to the alternator clearance problems.. Good timing huh.
If you use a 1Z Non AC bracket and alternator it clears by quite a bit. I have pics if you want them. I tried this out recently while replacing my waterpump. These brackets, etc are not easy to find in the US but you might have an easier time since you have more AAZ availability.

 

What is a 1Z option? How much does it give you? My spacer is 1" that I put on the steering box. THis changed the steering shaft about 1/2 inch. That would be a very good solution to this problem if it will clear without changing anything. Post some pics up in here if you have some. I may look into changing later as I don't like those blocks in there.
Thanks for the info.

 

I think he's talking about the 1KZ toyota diesel engine.

 

A 1Z is a VW TDI engine code like ALH, AHU, etc. 1Z are in early Passats and some Jettas but I bet this same bracket was on the 1.9 td cars also. I'll post up pics tonight with any luck. It gives you a couple inches at least. The alt, positioned where the AC compressor normally is.

Here it is:

 

That looks good. So it is a whole new cast bracket? Does the serpentine work the same way with this setup?

 

I stand corrected...lol

 

Yup, its a whole different bracket and alternator. There is no tensioner either it adjusts like a V-belt alt. would. The alignment and everything is the same for the belt and the power steering stuff is not affected. The Non AC water pump pulley you have is actually for this setup. My steering box is only spaced out a 1/4", btw.

 

YAhoo. took it out on the road today. Got it up to 70kmh and seems good. I have a slight vibration but I think it is the tires. I also have a slight vibration when I ride the clutch a bit. This might be due to oil or something on the disk or plate from when I put it together. The turbo sounds awsome and the engine pulls the same as the 22re. I am only running 10-12 psi boost (stock) and stock fueling settings on the pump. Once I start driving it I will start playing with stuff to get more power.

 

It sure does look nice. I like the bed too. Great to know it runs well and can get out of its own way as good as the 22R can. Slap a bit of black paint on the box and you'll have a brand new truck.

Just wondering and I don't know if it was asked before but what size tires are you running? And also before you start in with the tuning you will be fitting a pyrometer right? Don't want to go cooking anything.

 

Ya i am going to throw some paint on the box and get some new LED tail lights. I have the probe for the pyrometer mounted in the manifold (early pics show that) and just need to get a gauge. I think I am going to get a GlowShift one off ebay.

I am running 31 X 10.5's. Thats whats in the pic except I have some other ones that are not so wore out as those. I also have to lift the bumper 2 inches because of the body lift. I hate that gap.

 

Sounds fantastic flash... once you start playing with it you may even be able to get 3.0 performance out of it [not that thats a lot to cheer about lol but still a little zippier than the 22re]... I agree that vibration might be from the rubber they look like they've worn a little weird... be sure to check the alignment after you get the new tires on... don't forget a diesel only sticker for the bed by the fuel cap or some pump monkey may put the wrong fuel in it... also be prepeared to do a lot of talking into intercoms telling the idiot inside that your truck is a diesel and please turn the pump on...

 

That funny!! I only go to self serve pumps so not a problem with the sticker. The vibration seams to be gone from the clutch now that I have drove it a bit. Must have been oil or something. I changed that one bad tire out so I will see what it is like now.

 

I'm sure you will get a few people coming out to tell you to stop fueling up your truck. I only self serve as well but I have had people come running out of the stores to tell me to stop and I was doing it wrong. People have even argued with me about it.

 

I don't blame them for doing that. There are some really stupid people in this world.

 

The only thing you can blame them for if they start arguing with you. In that case, they are assuming you are one of those stupid people when they are instead.

 

Ya that could happen to, what do you do................I will just peel off and smoke the station.............not tire smoke

 

Well just an update.

I got my Dakota Digital tach box coverter. The box takes an alternator W terminal signal and makes it inot a regular tach signal. So I have a full working cluster now . I had to add a wire to the back of the cluster because the original cluster was the standard one with no tach and the hrness does not have the wire. I also had to run the tach wire to the High output terminal on the Dakota box.

I have also put a 1.6TD aneroid (boost) pin in the pump to allow more fuel sooner under boost. I didn't notice much but it is a start.

I also got my E-brakes working. I wasn't going to but all the talk about the MTO got me worried. I wanted to put on a t-case brake but the case I have on there is a chain style so the kit won't bolt up. I will wait for that trans to blow and swap it to a gear case. I have 2 gear cases laying around.

I also welded up some brackets onto the front frame and mounted the bumper to them up higher. No more body lift gap . Rear shocks and a cert and I am ready to go.......... I will post numbers once I put a tank through it.

 

Sounds good flash...

 

You say that you just adjust the injector pump to get more hp, but wont you overfuel the engine during all of the rev range including idle? Or does that injector pump have adjustments for far more fuel with more revs?

 

You can put to much fuel if you go to far. The adjustment is for the max fuel added. This increases it through the whole range but they back it off a lot from factory so there is no smoke any time.

When you have boost there is a pin that pushes the max fuel more depending on how much PSI you have, thus adding even more fuel. This is where the tweaking and stuff comes in because you are trying to mach a boost/fuel curve without to much smoke and hot exhaust.

Unlike a gas engine, a diesel you can dump as much fuel in there as you want. The more fuel the more power you can get as long as you can get air in there as well (does not have to be a perfect ratio like a gas). Ever watch a diesel tractor pull on TV? They are just pouring the fuel to those engines that is why there is a steady stream of black smoke coming out. Your exhaust gas gets very hot when you do this, you also go thorough a ton of fuel but when you are doing it for a sport it does not matter I guess.

All diesel pumps have governors in them that will start to back the fuel off (VW around 3500-4000rpm). The governor overrides the max fuel setting so a higher max fuel setting does not mean more revs just more fuel per injection up till the governor starts to back it off. So if you have the boost, get as much fuel in there as you can until you start getting to much smoke.