gbruner

Hello, I have been wanting to build a Toyota 4x4 with a 617 for a while now, so yesterday I purchased an '83 300D Turbo with 230,000 miles. It runs great, and I've put around 60 miles on it so far.

I only paid $380 for it, and it came with a full tank of fuel. It had been sitting for 9 months, and all it needed was a battery.

A couple of questions:

1) What gen truck is easiest to use? I have not purchased a truck yet, because I wanted to find a good running engine. I want a solid axle so either a ['79-83] or ['84-85].

2) What all needs to be saved from this vehicle when I pull the engine out?

3) Is a manual fuel cut-off possible, and if so, is it possible to do away with the entire vacuum system?

I am not planning on having an AC system in the truck, I would like the engine to be as simple as possible.

Thanks

PowerstrokeJoe

I think you will find that the later year trucks will be better as the engine compartments are longer. If you look on page 13 or 14 of my thread there is a list of everything I saved. The manual fuel cut off may be possible but its going to be a huge PITA. The vacuum setup isn't that hard but it to is a pain. You probably want to keep the vacuum brakes.

gbruner

Thanks, yeah I forgot all about the brake booster. I guess the brake and the cut-off is all there is. I found your list also. I'd like to get most of this right the first go-around.

As far as transmissions, W56?

Thanks

PowerstrokeJoe

I used the R150F and it was a colossal PITA. The W56 would be the better choice.

gbruner

What are you using for a shutt off switch?

gbruner

Removed my EGR, and noticed all of the soot build up, so ended up removing manifolds to clean. What is the best way to clean the inside of the intake manifold and for cleaning the intake ports? Really dont want to pull head off. Thanks

riddarunner

I used about a half can of engin brite to flood the inside, let it sit about 20 minutes then took it to the car wash to pressure wash it out worked well.

gbruner

Is that spraying into manifold or ports? What's best way to clean out intake ports?

PowerstrokeJoe

Get a small wire brush and go to town with carb cleaner. Hold a shop vac near the port while doing it so it sucks all the crap out. Id take the injectors out and crank it over good before I started it too just incase. As far as the manifold. I soaked mine in diesel over night and hit it with our pressure washer. For the shut off I used the maroon vacuum solenoid off the passenger fender well wired to the ignitor power wire.

gbruner

Found an 84 Xtra cab that I may be getting.

I guess this means it has a G52 trans? Would it be best to swap this for a W56? Any driveshaft length problems?

B-yodaful

Subd. What are adapters are you going with or are you building you own?

gbruner

Ill probably go with the middle kit from tdswaps.

gbruner

Bought this '83 for $380. Came with full tank of fuel ($80), so I drove it away, drained the fuel, pulled the engine, and sold the car for $200.So I have $100 in the engine plus some time.



Then we got the truck. '84 SR5 all original. Runs so good, I hate to take the engine out.

gbruner

As far as adapters go, it's a toss up between tdswaps and 4x4labs. What are thoughts on these? 4x4labs comes with a drilled flywheel, but tdswaps comes with motor mounts. Also need to replace front and rear springs. Heard a lot about chevys on the rear, how about the front? Not looking to lift it a lot, just compensate the sagging and Prob a few inches over stock. Thanks

B-yodaful

I just ordered tdswaps kit because of all the stuff you get with it. And his motor mounts allow you not to have to use a body lift. Brian on the phone seemed to know his stuff time will tell I guess. I'm using Chevys for the rear and a blaze land kit for the front. But I have ifs so can't help there sorry.

gbruner

Just realized the typo in my title should be "617 Swap in Process" or "617 Swap Progress"...

What tool is used to remove the Mercedes flywheel? Bolts look like a 12 pt of some kind. Do I need a special socket for this? Thanks

Transplanter

Just use a good 12mm 12 point socket,be careful and make sure you socket is in new or near new shape,as the bolts are soft and the heads like to strip. If they end up stripping,just grind the heads off. Good luck!

gbruner

Received the 3" HD front lift and hi-steer kit from Trail Gear. Will I be required to notch the oil pan with the hi-steer? Would like to do that ahead of time if need be. If so, how much? Thanks

gbruner

Just an update, we have installed TG 3" HD springs and hi-steer. Ordered tdswaps mid kit yesterday.

gbruner

I have received the tdswaps kit and have also purchased a w56.

I am needing a clutch and am looking at the 1200 lb clutch and flywheel from Marlin. Anyone have luck with this one?

I am planning on running dual 10" fans with a stock Toyota radiator. I will not be running AC, so can the stock 617 alternator be used in factory location? Will amps be a problem? I'll try to get some pics soon. Thanks