3uzfte

I'm doing this swap because my boss was driving the truck through Nebraska from Minneapolis to Denver, and it threw a piston or rod through the block.


And another.


The junked 3VZE.


It was fun while it lasted, but somethings just don't last forever.


She cleaned up real nice.


The new blood in this beast is coming from an 02' Tundra. Its a 2UZ 4.7 V8, that was than modified to fit a 2nd gen Runner, which was than sold to my boss. Here is the 2UZ/A340F, we couldn't use the Tundra Xfer case because it's a driver's side drop.


Tundra X-fer case, driver drop.


Included in the kit was complete exhaust w/ cats, Tundra cluster, charcoal canister, and a few other things.

3uzfte

ECU harness is disectected and labeled for ease of install.


My laboratory.


And my wall.


Here is my relay setup, Main EFI Relay, Circuit Open Relay, and Fuel Pump Relay.


The pass side of the truck.


The business side.

JamesD

I was going to put my 2UZ in my 93 2wd but I never got around to it. I have the complete harnesses though both under the hood and the one in the dash out of a 2000 Tundra. Subscribed!

James

RMA

nice pics What are you guys doing for the oil filter ? I know the oil filter housing on the 2uz has a cooler and is super long.. does the 1uz filter housing bolt up.. what are you doing to drop the transfer case on the passenger side .. adapter or extension housing from the t-100?

More pics and same here Subscribed!
Good Luck !!

3uzfte

Nice, it'd make the swap a bit easier, but it sure doesn't slide right in.

Hey, your pretty much right on the money. We got a T100 pass drop TC, but we have to buy an entire T100 A340F because no one will sell just the tailhousing and shifter, also the Tundra trans dipstick is right in the way of the front driveshaft, so well need the T100/A340H oil pan as well.

The oil filter housing is def. too long to fit between the block and steering box. I think both LS and SC housing will work, but I'm worried about radiator clearance with the SC, and frame/steering box clearance with the LS.

That is pretty much what this came from, a 3rd gen runner, but donor was a 02' Tundra.

Update.
Here is the T100 pass drop TC, iirc it's referred to as forward shift TC as the shifter for it is placed forward of the TC and requires the T100 tailshaft housing as the Tundra doesn't have the hole on the tailshaft housing because it's shifted electronically.


Here is the Tundra driver's drop TC, no exposure for shift mechanism due to electronically controlled shift actuators.


And the Tundra A340F, no shifter on the tailhousing due to a push-button shift, as previously mentioned.


The oil filter housing dilemma... Tundra housing w/ cooler causes filter to contact PS box.


The oil pan to drag link interference, the stabilizer is no doubt in the way.


Tundra trans oil pan won't work, we'll need a pass drop oil pan.


It's not even close...


And here is my OBD2 harness.


So.. Keep in mind, this is not my truck, I am just doing the swap for my boss, whatever he says goes. I've been able to keep the build going, but in reality this is why I put a 350 in mine, which hasn't been any easier, having a solid axle and lift helps too.

We are going to do a 2" body lift, a LS400 oil pan, and get a T100 A340F to source the tailhousing and shifter from. Everything else will come later I guess. I know for a fact the factory crossmember isn't going to work without an extension as the TC mount was moved back ~2".

RMA

well i really havent done enough reading on the 2uz swaps to know for sure .. but if the 1uz stuff will bolt up ,then you will definetly want the sc oil filter housing and the LS front sump pan.. i can tell you for sure that the first gen runners only need a 1" body lift with the LS front sump to fit . But then again the 2uz's intake is alot taller than the 1uz's intake .

JamesD

A suspension lift on that IFS would help out big time.

James

JamesD

True but it would help the drive shaft issue I bet. Have you tried these websites?

Lextreme.com
http://www.uzswap.com/forum/index.ph...26b534057a134&

RMA

The t100 trannies oil pan alone should solve the drive shaft issue. I have one here i want to install into my 1uz swap just for the added oil capacity it allows,but it does have a large cut out type deal on the passanger side for the drive shaft.

3uzfte

From what I understand, I am able to bolt the (1UZ) LS400 sump pans up to the Tundra (2UZ), as well as the 3UZ would work as well. I have seen a few people, put the 4.7 shortblock, and fit it with the 1/3UZ running gear. Since we are trying to free up room, we do plan on using the LS400 pan. I measured the 2UZ sump pan, and it's 8" deep from the bottom of the block. I haven't been able to measure my LS pan as home, but my GS430 (3UZ) front sump is 6" deep, and I would imagine their very similar. I do believe my boss ordered the LS400 oil sump pans already, as this is our 1st attempt to minimize the body lift. Unfortunately there is no way around the intake besides swapping heads and intakes.

The swap is very involved, and I will say it now, it wasn't for the weakhearted. Wiring is very easy for me, but I would easily say I have the better part of 20+ hours just into the wiring so far, and it's still not running. This really all boils down to not doing the homework that is involved in such a big swap, on my boss's part. It's not a very big deal to swap over parts, the harder part is finding them all at good prices to keep this swap cost effective. The Tundra manifolds work fine, they jsut need to be modified at the flange to account for the space constraints between the frame rail and motor. Keep in mind that nothing is ever as easy as it appears when your thinking outside the box, that being said, we bought a full running, working, engine... and it's all about the package deal, but try to make it fit in our truck has proven to be very challenging.

Yeah, since the IFS is fixed, a suspension life won't do a thing for us. We are going to try to use the A340H pan to account for the pass drop driveshaft, since the pan depths and bolt patterns are the same, and the dipstick on the driver's side instead of on the pass side. Someting I was un aware of, is that depending on the T100's trim levels, it will dictate the tailshaft housing size, and trans oil pan & dipstick. Therefore all T100 A340F's are the same, HOWEVER the tailshaft housing to adapt the TC to the tranny can/will vary in size as well as the dipstick size and angle at which it leaves the pan.

3uzfte

We ended up finding a local engine shop that has a few 1UZs, but doesn't know the difference between the LS and SC filter housings. We ended up getting a LS housing, and it seems to fit decent, considering we're going to run new lines from the pump to the steering gear anyways, it really fits ok.


Not ideal, but at least it will fit.

RMA

looks pretty tight..but does fits. check out post #13 for some pics of both sc and ls filter housings and how much one sticks out further than the other.
.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161.../#post51174392
.
.

3uzfte

Update.
The LS400 is very tight against the frame rail, and will likely be difficult to deal with if a shorter filter isn't used. My boss wants me to try to make the Tundra housing work by removing the cooler. I keep telling him that an SC housing is the way to go, but he doesn't want to listen.

However, I did end up getting a LS400 oil pan and sump and it definitely helped by ~.5"


As well as they ended up buying a A340F/TC from a 94' T-100. I had to gut the transmission for just a few pieces, you can see the output on the floor.


Shifter housings removed from their respective transmissions.


You can see the differences in the lengths of the shifter housings, it's about .5". Left: Tundra | Right: T-100


Bolt patterns. Left side drop vs. Right side drop


Tundra A340F output shaft, protrudes 2" from case.


T-100 A340F output shaft, protrudes 2.5" from case.


Speed sensors are different, 2 prong vs 4 prong, and the diameter of the speed sensor.


Yep, the final output speed sensors on the TC are different as well. The gear on the Tundra TC measured 42mm in diameter, the gear on the T-100 TC measured 40mm, I did not measure the gears on the speedo units, but there's a size difference.


I had to take the T-100 shifter housing and drill it to 14mm(IIRC), than drill and tap the case for a bolt to secure it.


I could have clocked the sensor a bit better, but at the time I was afraid of interference with the shifter housing, so I took a little off the top.


Tomorrow I will be disassembling the Tundra A340F to put in the slightly longer output shaft to connect the driveline. Any input is welcome, I will update when I can. I am coaching a hockey team so I don't have much time, but I do my best.

RMA

Great pics bro! be sure and check the speed sensor .. the t-100 sensor sits to the side of the rotor and the tundra should sit on top .. making the holes for the sensor on the housing just a bit off .. when fitting it to the extension housing i had to weld the hole shut and make a new one about 2 mm forward (i think)..

good luck .

3uzfte

Haha, your right on the money. I havent had a chance to cruise YT until now, and pretty much am going to post almost exactly what you said, however I moved my sensor a little more than 2mm. Instead of welding and redrilling, i thought the paddle wheel thing was the next best solution.

Update.
After trying to bolt up the T-100 TC to the Tundra A340F, I found that the output shaft wasn't long enough. Had we gotten a A340F with a shorter tailhousing, we probably wouldn't need to change the output shaft, but we have to. Here is the difference in lengths, and why they needed to be changed. If you notice, it isn't a direct swap. I was forced to have to use a hybrid of parts because if you notice that on the longer (old) shaft the locking C-clip is located further down on the shaft. So I was forced to use the older A340f planetary gear and a few other things to achieve that, but from there up it was all newer A340F. the 2nd issue is that the diameter of where the reluctor ring for the speed sensor sits is about 2mm too small to slap on the Tundra ring, it needs a spacer. So no, you can JUST swap shafts into the tranny.


I had to make a collar for the Tundra sensor on the T100 shaft due to a difference in size.


Once the shaft was switched, and the tranny reassembled, I found out that the rear speed sensor needed some modification. I found out that the old A340F uses a magnet in the reluctor ring, and swipes by the sensor, providing an AC signal to the speed sensor. The new A340F uses a magnet inside the sensor, and a 4 prong steel reluctor ring, which rotates infront of the sensor providing an AC signal. So needless to say my Tundra sensor and ring wouldn't work with the T-100 shaft without modification.


Here's my depiction and my modified Tundra reluctor ring.


I contemplated redrilling the sensor hole, but I can't weld aluminum very well so I did the next best thing, extend the reluctor ring prongs, like a paddle boat effect.


It should work...


On the money...


A340 Hybrid assembled and ready to go back in. Tundra bell housing, Tundra tranny, T100 tailshaft housing, T100 forward shift transfer case.


My boss had the nerve to say I wasn't making any progress... WTF?! Crossmember comes tomorrow...

3uzfte

Update.
I think I may have figured out my oil filter solution. It was to simply unbolt the cooler, and use the LS400 bolt.


By using the Tundra housing, no cooler, w/ LS bolt... It's basically an SC400 oil filter housing.


2" body lift installed, and the hood shuts.


Another shot of the BL.

3uzfte

I am not running an oil cooler on this 2UZ swap due to space constraints. The space that the cooler once occupied, is being taken up by the steering gear.


Filter fits great, a little tight but clearly the best case scenario is to use the SC400 oil filter housing or the Tundra housing, minus the cooler.


Now for the AC compressor clearance...


And another shot of the AC pulley to steering gear clearance.

yotasavg

Awesome work man! I know it's not your swap, but if it was yours is there any reason why you would not consider a remote oil filter solution? I've seen a couple 1uz swaps with this done and it seems like the way to go.

RMA, what do you think?

3uzfte

Thank you for taking the time and checking out my build. Your right it's not mine, but I've never been a fan for remote style oil filter. No matter where it would've ended up, space would always be a factor and I didn't want to add two more oil hoses running across or under the motor, so I made do. Really though it's not too bad, it's not like the oil cooler is needed.

Sweet build you got going on yourself. When I started this thread, I thought this setup was from a 2nd gen Runner, turns out it was for a 3rd gen Runner, like yours. As far as the AC comp clearance, I can't lift the motor due to hood clearance, so my choices are limited.

Update.
As Singtoe pointed out, my steering box to AC compressor clearance was not sufficient. Since we had to put a 2" BL just to shut hood, lifting the motor wasn't in the cards as the 2UZ is too tall. So my 2 options were to move the steering box outwards or forward, but I didn't want to change the steering geometry. The 2nd option was to grind the steering box down a bit, like so. I'm not sure if it's enough to accommodate for engine rocking, but it's enough to slide a belt past.


Next up is the oil filter housing. I used the Tundra housing, trimmed it a bit, w/ the cooler removed and the LS400 union bolt.


I wanted to reuse as much stuff from my build as I could. The PS lines were a perfect fit until the AC compressor was fitted. Since the stock lines were a close enough fit, I decided to just bend the sheit out of the lines to get them to fit like so.


Since the space between the compressor and the steering box was tight already, I bent the pressure line to travel under the AC comp and come up behind it to feed fluid from the PS pump to the PS box. The lo-psi return line runs outside of the box..


Than continues on under the steering shaft than under the AC compressor.


Custom PS bracket for Tundra resv.
Here is the top end, pretty much everything is plumbed.


I've been busting my ass on this build, trying to keep it at a furious pace, however both my bosses thought otherwise. Not knowing the lengths at which I've gone to keep this build possible. Needless to say, I'm exhausted and when my boss mentioned I hadn't really shown much progress, I had to plead my case. There are just so many variables to this build, and to make it happen in a short matter of time, just wasn't possible. It would be different if it were getting another 3VZE or 22RE, but w/ the 2UZ is a much bigger beast. Things like PS lines & reservior, radiator & hoses, oil filter housing, AC lines, exhaust, just to start w/ all need to be fitted, bent, customized, fabbed, etc., to make due. These things take time and energy to create, and often can't be rushed. I felt myself starting to become confused and disoriented during the build, I knew it was time to take a break. I needed to do something different, so my boss made me make a list to make an order in which to attack it when I get back on it.


I got a kick out of this though... The next car I looked at was a 95' Volvo 960, well it also uses the AisinWarner A-series tranny, kinda caught me off guard.

3uzfte

Update.
It's been a while, but between me going insane with this build, and it just eating a bunch of my time up, it gets shelved for some periods of time.

I leveled the motor mounts. Not sure if the 3rd Gen Runner's have uneven mounts, but these were off by about .5", and I painted them black.


The factory x-member modified to move the mount up ~1" and back 3"


Easy access, and should have plenty of strength.


W/ the engine mounted flat, and the trans mount in place, the LS oil pan is ever so slightly contacting the steering drag link.


The steering box was still in the way, so .5" solid aluminum spacers were made to move the box out to keep the AC compressor. Even though the ear was ground down a bit, it still has very little room for a belt to pass through.


The factory 94' Pickup heater valve was reused, however I spent a good chunk of time finding the almost perfect hose.


Another view.


The rear driveshaft we got with the swap was lengthened by 2.5", and the factory front shaft was used due to Boss keeping the IFS, so we bought a 1.75" spacer, which was the biggest I found.


The spacer.


And here is how it sit's now, waiting for me to finish the wiring.