3uzfte

Hello YT, I know this is my first post on here, but I am not beginner to this whole underground world of knowledge. I am currently posting this because if ever in my life, I need to start planning ahead and making the best possible decisions. Well with my last attempt being an LS400 I bought on Craigslist for $400 in order to flip for some cash, ended up turning into a great learning experience turbocharging and megasquirting, what an endeavor... If you'd like to check out the build, here ya go...
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls40...bought-it.html

Anyways, my love for Toyota's has brought me here. I currently own two Lexus V8s, and a dismal 89' Toyota Pickup with an absolutely and utterly GUTLESS 3vze V6 w/ 247k on the clock. Needless to say it's a bit rusty, but everyone knows these are great trucks, so I bought it knowing likely I would be dealing with HG, oil, idle, issues etc. I have gotten through pretty much the heart of winter and it's been an OK truck. I have no heat at idle, due to a blocked heater core, and it will stay on OD for as long as I try to keep it at OP temp. If its extremely cold out, the temp drops on the freeway, if I'm in traffic, I'm fine. Did I say worthless P.O.S. motor/electronics...? I just hope it gets me through until February, than I can bring out the other cars. (Rant over)

Now, please, I am not a newbie, and have done my searching so if I am asking, I am out of luck searching or needed to be pointed in the right direction as you've all been doing this for quite some time.. My theme of this build is budget oriented, I bought this truck for $650, and have put about $300 into it to keep it running over the last 3 months. I am without a doubt going to pull this motor as I could easily change the HG, I want MO POWAH!!! With that being said, I have been wrestling between the GM 5.3 found in most trucks w/ a 4L60e and TC, or keeping it in house and putting a 1UZ/a341e/VF2A setup in. Being that this budget build is going to happen slowly and over the next few months until I can find some decent weather to rip this 3vze out, I have some time to decide on this, hence doing it the right way. I believe I am going to do an extreme budget build, and go down the Toyota path as I think I can achieve it for around $6~700, as I have spare 1UZ parts, obviously this doesn't including my time nor the preexisting stuff I have laying around. I also have no intent of putting in a crawler, I just want a V8 with a transmission that won't puke.

Details are as follows. Starting from front to back, I am not running AC, so condenser is out, I am going to be running a pusher fan, likely a Taurus efan from the local yards. I have heard that the V6 radiator doesn't work, I will cross that bridge when I need to. Not running AC, so I'm left with PS, ALT, Crank, and tensioner which leaves me with a 44" serp belt. Power steering high pressure and low pressure line appear to attach in the same location and by the same manner. Radiator hoses will be custom no doubt, but will wait once rad is determined. I don't want to spend money I don't have to, so I'd like to keep the driveshafts the same length. To do this, I want to keep the transmission in the same spot, keeping th TC in the same spot. After some measuring, the 1UZ engine and bellhousing are longer, it's going to leave me with about 2" of clearance between crank and radiator. I think it was RMS, (not sure) who first tried solid mounts than welded up the original v6 mounts to suit the V8, I will go that route as I already have some mounts, and can fabricate fairly well. If need be, I can source some SC400 mounts, and just build some frame mounts so I can use the OE mount setup.. The motor is only .5~1" taller than the 3VZ, but is longer, and wider as well. I notice the driver's exhaust manifold will be tight, as it's close to the steering shaft, and I am aware that both manifolds will have to be reworked to fit between the frame rails, which isn't going to be a problem. The yard mentioned the 1UZ will likely be from a 92' LS400, SC400's are a little harder to find, but they always want more $ for some reason. I am debating using the factory ECU vs. building a bare bones Meagsquirt setup to run the dual dizzy setup, but than I have to run some sort of shift controller or convert to manual valve body. I'm not very crazy about manual converted automatics, unless it's drag racing. At this point in time, I plan on buying the 1UZ/A341E and running it on the factory ECU and harness as it will be coming with the motor and trans, if I buy it. Now Megasquirt ins't totally out of the question, I think the Lexus ECU might just be a bit easier as I already have one. Obviously there's a bit of wiring involved, but being that all the info has been provided, and I have a decent working knowledge of the engine/trans, it shouldn't be too difficult to make it look OE. I do NOT want to do a body lift. I am currently on IFS, but planning on doing an SAS/chevy 63's around the time of the engine swap, and the Lexus V8 pump is a direct swap into the Yota' V6 hanger.

I do have a few questions for the experts...
1) Is it easier to just cut the Lexus 2WD output shaft down to size, or dismantle the A341E to install the 4WD output shaft.
2) For the tailhousings... Obviously the Lexus A341E doesn't have a tailhousing that will allow me to attach my VF2A transfer case to the otherwise 2ED tranny. Is there any reason why I shouldn't just transfer over the A340F tailhousing from my V6 instead of buying one from a T100 or Tundra, or is there an advantage to swap over those instead?
3) Speed sensors... I see the A341E has a speed sensor built in the side of the transfer case, the A340F doesn't and need to be drilled and tapped? Since I'm going with the Lexus motor/trans combo, I don't need to worry about this, correct? I guess I am confused as what to do... might alter #4..
4) I have an SR5, so the cluster is decent, but I like the Lexus cluster and think I could make it work. The SR5 unit is a mechanical unit, and it's below 0* out, so I'm reluctant to venture underneath, but I can't tell where the speedo comes from. If it comes from the tail housing, than nothing should change as I'm bolting the existing tailhousing to the Lexus tranny. I would imagine I would have some issues with the tach, but again haven't really settled on one of the other.

Engine/Trans/Harness = $350 I spoke with the yard today, and because they are dealing with more than 3ft. we couldn't do anything immediately, but mentioned he'd make something happen soon. I asked if he could possibly keep the wiring harness, for the most part, in one piece. I went on to tell him what I was after, and said he could likely just cut the harness at the firewall and just unbolt and go. I said that was fine as long as he was able to ensure the engine harness was mostly intact, as well as most of the tranny harness, I claimed that most of the connectors are a biotch to find, but not impossible. I'll keep you updated on that.
Tailhousing/Transfer Case/4WD Output shaft = $Free, I currently own the 89' Yota A340F w/ VF2A case.
Megasquirt (Maybe) = $200, I just built an MS3/x setup to run LS2 coils and sequential fuel injection on my NA-T LS400. Building an MS is pretty easy, and if just building a basic setup, MS2 is pretty much all that is needed to run the dual dizzy setup. But will likely run the OE ECU just to get everything running, and eliminate the special trans-controller.
Steel/Welding materials = $200, I own a pretty sweet Lincoln TIG, and have access to a local discount metal yard. Up until recently, I had a friend with a sheetmetal shop, but has since gone out of business...
ECU, Cluster, injectors, alternator, PS pump, U/L intake manifolds, air intake w/ MAF, pass. cylinder head, LS400 exhaust manifolds... Not to mention I am ditching the dual dizzy setup on my NA-T LS400, so I have tons of spare stuff. = $Free (But to be honest, they were paid for before but collected at such a slow pace I didn't pay much and they are now just sitting around.)

Thanks for checking out my pre-build, soon to turn into build thread. Please feel free to comment with any additional information as I tried to be as clear as possible what I know and what I plan on using. If something isn't correct, I'd really like to know. Thanks again.

3uzfte

Damn, I figured someone would throw me a bone. I recently got hired as a tech at a small shop and now have the ability to use the shop after hours and on weekends. As soon as I lay my hands on a reasonable 1UZ/A341E combo, I will start the tear down. I am just confused on 4 things for now.

1) Is it easier to just cut the Lexus 2WD output shaft down to size, or dismantle the A341E to install the 4WD output shaft?

2) Am I correct that my V6 tailhousing will work, instead of buying one from a T100 or Tundra, or is there an advantage to swapping over one of those instead?

3) Speed sensors... Since I'm swapping motor/trans/harness I shouldn't have a problem running the mechanical speedo in the SR5 cluster, and the speed sensor in the front of the A341E. Will this alone run the Lexus speedo, or will I need to make some VSS instead?

4) I am in the process of rebuilding an 85' solid axle. As it stands right now, I going to run my existing 4.10 gears, with an Aussie locker in the rear, open diff up front. Will I need a rear sump, as the 3vze has a similar front sump like the LS4.

Please help...

RMA

Whooaa! Lots to read up there .. just glanced thru it real quick .

1) Is it easier to just cut the Lexus 2WD output shaft down to size, or dismantle the A341E to install the 4WD output shaft?

way easier to just cut the shaft ..

2) Am I correct that my V6 tailhousing will work, instead of buying one from a T100 or Tundra, or is there an advantage to swapping over one of those instead?


if you truck has these types of shifters .. then your extensoin housing and transfer case should bolt up. if it doesnt then you need the t-100 parts. thats a canadian model 4runner .


How about posting some pics of your truck .. tranny also.

3) Speed sensors... Since I'm swapping motor/trans/harness I shouldn't have a problem running the mechanical speedo in the SR5 cluster, and the speed sensor in the front of the A341E. Will this alone run the Lexus speedo, or will I need to make some VSS instead?

you need a 92-95 electronic speedo cluster from a 4cyl .

4) I am in the process of rebuilding an 85' solid axle. As it stands right now, I going to run my existing 4.10 gears, with an Aussie locker in the rear, open diff up front. Will I need a rear sump, as the 3vze has a similar front sump like the LS4.

you need the sc 400 rear oil sump stuff .. better yet the whole sc 400 engine instead of the ls 400 engine .


good luck man .

3uzfte

Ah Yes, thank you for responding. I felt the presence of the cold shoulder. I tried to include as many details as I could, clearly it was a lot.

1) That is what I was thinking as I've read up on the instructions and could easily save a few hours.

2) After looking at your picture, I seem to think I have the A340H as I have a plastic shifter for 2/4WD, as opposed to the knob and boot in the photo. So I'll have to find a T100/Tundra tranny/tailhousing, no biggie.

3) That make's sense because the LS400 cluster reads off of one of the banks, easy enough.

4) The problem is that I can find an LS400 engine about $100 cheaper than an SC400, plus the LS400 is coming with an A341E for $150 more, and he was going to keep the engine harness intact. I believe if it comes down to it, the mounts and sump can be easily found/fabricated for less than the $100 difference. Not that it's a big deal, I just would have to drive over 100 miles to get the SC, where as the LS is within reasonable distance.

Thank you RMA. I definitely liked your idea for the mounts, so we'll see how that goes. I will post the pictures soon as I'm in the process of a SAS, I started the axle tear down. I just got hired as a tech at a small import shop and the owner was more than happy to see my projects at the shop so that was nice. I am going to be buying the 1UZ/A341E combo within the next few weeks. Thanks again, I do appreciate the help.

toyminator2000

4) You will also need to come up with an oil filter adapter from an SC400 and some exhaust manifolds from either an SC400 or a 98-03 Tundra.

3uzfte

Update as I've not forgotten about this build.

I was pissed to find out I had an A340H as it just makes me have to spend more time and money searching and buying parts. Anyways, I was about to find a VFA1 TC, minus the shift for $100 at a local yard.

I still haven't completely decided if I'm going w/ the 5.3L/4L60E and AA Chevy to Toyota adapter or 4.0L/A341E. Obviously one would be a bit cheaper, but being that I do all my own fab work with extensive knowledge of both motors, I'm torn. The way I see it, I can either save $500 and be capped at 300hp, or I spend the extra dough and have an LS motor with endless aftermarket.

I'm essentially, building a mall crawler, SAS, V8, automatic, 33" swampers, Aussie locker in the rear, open diff up front, and homebrew sliders, bumpers, flatbed, etc.

1) I can buy an LS400 1UZ for cheap and locally, but have to spend more money to get it to fit, i.e. IS300/Supra union bolt for oil filter cooler/housing, SC400 sump, etc.

2) I can buy an SC400 1UZ for $100 more, 150 miles north, with likely no engine harness, which isn't too bad, I can't build my own.

3) I can buy a GM 5.3L/4L60E for about the same price. I will need to source an ECU, and supporting accessories, as well as the Chevy to Toyota adapter.

Eiher way, I'm aware that I need the VFA1 TC anyways, so I'll go ahead and get that, but I'm still tying to figure this one out. My wallet says Toyota, my balls (man stuff) say Chevy....

rebelrunner

keep it Toyota. putting in a chevy motor is somewhat sacrilegious IMO. plus you dont need any more than 300hp.

3uzfte

Sorry guys, I haven't been updating this more regularly as I'm in the process of doing 2 other projects, I simply am still in the planning process in order to do a cheap and time efficient motor swap.

I first must apologize again I decided that I would try something different, or at least to me. I know an SBC swap is far from original, but to me, I already have 2 UZ power cars, and I was born around domestic V8s, that's why I own Japanese ones. Anyways, after doing some wrestling on the net, and some thought, I was able to find an SC400 1UZ for w/ 200k for $350 and it was 120 miles away, but wasn't the deal breaker. What was the deal breaker for me was the Trans/TC. I could find a A341E, but the yard wanted $200 for it, than I needed the VF2A from a 5-speed TC, $75 at the yard w/o shifter and $100 of Craigslist w/ shifter. I did not want to adapt to a 5 speed, as I didn't want to have deal with the bellhousing, master, slave, etc. With that in parts alone, I at roughly $650, which doesn't include wiring harness which I'm sure could be source over time, and I already have the ECU, alt, etc., but I'd likely be dealing with new timing belt, water pump, seals, etc.

I was able to find a AA TH350 adapter w/ a VF1A chain TC already bolted to it. I actually found this guy when I bought my solid axle, which I am also in the process of rebuilding/swapping. The guy also has the headers and motor mounts, and he's asking $750. Too me, that sounds like a deal. I def. preemptively pulled the trigger, however I don't have THAT much cash off hand, nor can I just drop it at a blink of an eye. I emailed him back to find out if I can only buy the adapter w/ the TC for $500.

Fast forward to today, I bought a 93' TBI 350/TH350 for $350. It is complete from the computer, wiring harness, TBI unit, pan, torque converter, accessories (minus water pump), coolant overflow, exhaust manifolds, starter, dipsticks, filter and intake w/ snorkel, and trans cooler lines and I'm sure I forgot a thing or two. The engine was from a 93' GMC 2500 Van w/ 94k miles and no title, so he parted it out. The transmission was rebuild 10k miles ago according to paperwork and ODO, and he mentioned the 350 burns a bit of oil, but what 350 doesn't? I am going to degrease the harness/engine/trans, paint black, do crank seal, timing chain, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gaskets, pan gaskets, water pump, plugs/wires/cap/rotor, and in the mean time I am going to shorten/build the wire harness to my specs. Since it came from a van, it's suuuuuuuper long.

Sorry for the long story, I know it can be a bit long winded, but there are many details to a build. If you guys would like I can post some pics up, but I know how people tend to be on these boards, I'd imagine I'll need to start a new build in the domestic thread now... Later guys, thanks for your time.

94toyota

a properley tuned 1uz can make much more power eassily than a chevy small block the small block is a great motor but they just don't belong in any toyota

3uzfte

There's a saying for this... It goes.. There's no replacement for displacement. It's about torque, most V8s make decent power, the 5.7 is dollar for dollar the best motor out there. I own an 01 GS430 and a 92' LS400 that I turbocharged, when you say a properly tuned 1UZ, what does that mean? The factory ECU tunes it pretty well, and will make 250hp, but no where near the amount of torque that the 350 makes at 300 ft-lbs torque.

I'm sorry, I don't mean to come down on one side of the fence or the other. Please underhand it was a matter of circumstances, and all said and done... I bought a
Donor vehicle is a 93' GMC 3/4 Ton G2500 Van w/ 5.7 and 4L60-E with 94k miles, and the tranny was rebuilt 2 years ago, about 20k mile ago. I got the complete motor, TBI to pan, snorkel, air filter, wiring harness, starter, computer, tranny cooler lines, serp belt acc., for $350.

The 2nd transaction ironically enough is coming from the same guy I got my sold axle from, and out of the blue email me about an SBC adapter kit. Fast forward to today, after buying the motor, I get serious. He emails me back with and list of parts and I bit. I am a proud new owner of..
A TH350/400 to Toyota transfer case, VF1A transfer case, bolt on SBC motor mounts, which I will revise and weld to the frame, headers and exhaust back to duals, mount for 3VZE power steering pump to bolt on to SBC, extra 3rd member with 4.10 gears and an Aussie locker for $750, the adapter alone is $600 from AA.