blake.nemitz

old a340e or 30-40le 2wd auto that came stock behind the 2jzgte.





my rig 1986 4runner with a touch over 4oo hp





old trans mount for the 2wd. with tearing the driver side engine rubbers all the time and this i had some dshaft vibes and it just felt sloppy. now with the bombproof mounts and solid tcase mount the drivetrain doesnt move at all. fells way more solid.

blake.nemitz

before anyone asks why the trans i put in is so dirty the the pressure washer is broken and I put new seals in it first so it just looks like it leaks ha ha.

blake.nemitz

wiring was really easy to convert to manual from auto. the neutral safety switch needs jumped to start but only to start. if you leave it energized i get a 4-5k rev cut. when you give the ecu no input to what gear its in like its used to seeing it runs fine with no CEL other than a speed sensor code but who cares as my stock cable driven speedo works again. from what i read some guys come up with a relay circuit to start it in neutral then energize the D wire in the ecu for driving. When you do this or give it any input it looks for feedback from the trans and can make you go into limp mode without the proper resistors simulating solonoids in the trans. I read a guy that just cut off all input as to gear selection to the ecu and it ran fine not knowing what i was in. i did the same and so does mine with no valve or ignition timing pulled. if anyone is interested JOBD can be read with a bluetooth obd2 reader and torque pro android app for live monitoring. you just need to modify a line of code to get JOBD read by the bluetooth device.

blake.nemitz

code fixed by removing speed sensor from old auto and cliping into wire harness and taping up.

blake.nemitz

since the start i have now gone full BPU. Basic POwer Ups. boost raised from 9-10 psi to 15 psi. some ecu's cut fuel at 14.5 some at 16. mine does it at 16(ARISTO ECU). if you run 16 psi for more than 3 sec. it shuts down for a second then picks back up. this can be over come with a boost cut defenser but i feel its not needed as 16 is rarely seen and only on 100 plus pulls getting boost creep. not to mention the ecu isnt mapped for over 16 psi. it runs a little rich at WOT so guys get away with upping the boost to close to 20 and running a little lean but im running ceramic turbos and 20 psi goes boom. big denso supra tt fuel pump in the tank to keep it fed. one step colder plug. and 3in exhaust after the dump pipe. I have also rigged the vacuum switches on the sequential turbo system overriding the vsv's giving me sequential operation, one turbo spooling to 4k then both, virtually no lag but can be finicky running hard up and down rpm wise, then at the flip of a switch i get true twins operation where they both spool together like a big single but are a little laggy this way but boost comes on smoother and kicks you in the nuts when it hits hard. you can get full boost from both turbos before 4k this way. also shimmed the wastegate springs and that helped a lot.
neither one gives more power in the end over the other it just changes the way powerband and how it is applied. carrying a heavy load up a hill going slow on a hot days like 2 dirt bikes and camping gear it gets true twins as a lot less heat build up in the engine bay running on vacuum rather than sequential operation running boost all the time. each has its advantages and disadvantages. in a truck rather than a car its nice to be able to choose

blake.nemitz

ill try and get a video in the next couple of days when i can get a friend to film. something like a 0-100 run.

8784 runner

I have the bomb proof mounts on my 1j. They let in such a considerable amount of more vibration I wasn't really to happy with them. 4wd is pretty ridiculous, you'll see real fast that the truck wants to go where it wants. With mine when I'm on the gas the front wheels just completely tear things up and jerk the steering wheel all over the place. Although I will say I'm a little bit jealous of the stance your truck has over mine. Mine is to high to really do and fun high speed action through the woods. Yours how ever is gonna be a ken block rally championship lol through the trails.

blake.nemitz

i dont think the mounta are that bad. you can see the trans mount and i kept tearing the stockers and the drivetrain was flopiing all over the place. i do feel some vibration at idle and high rpm but im already getting used to it. I have my overload leaves clamped to the main pack in the rear and with the drivetrain rigid its chirping tires now on 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. i did a 4wd launch and see what your talking about. its just better to take it easy in 1st then put the hammer down in 2nd. 1st gear is a traction nightmare even with new 33's. fun though i like having an extra gear before direct drive rather than the 4 speed auto power robbing slushbox. how is your swap doing these days? im thinking my next move is sas with a cruiser front and retain the coils and radius arms. it will be next year though as this swap robbed my truck parts budget down to nothing again.

blake.nemitz

anyone in the denver are with a go pro wanna go for a ride and film the speedo?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

As far as wiring goes, are you able to reuse most of the existing efi components/relays? Or are you needing to set things up like a stand alone system? Having done many many many 3.4 swaps into 1st gen runners and trucks, most cases I only add a relay here or there.

blake.nemitz

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blake.nemitz

the only things i had to wire separate that wasn't controlled by the ecu were the fuel pump relay, like most swaps, and my fans and stuff. i built a little vsv circuit that controls the turbo operation from sequential to true twins by a switch in the cab. other than that it only needs like 4 wires powered up the alternator circuit and the MREL circuit wired and that was it. i did buy a fuse box and some wire from a toyota camry at the junk yard to splice in to keep it clean looking under the hood. if i remember correctly its the mrel, alt, fan relays and fuses, and what ever was in the stock fuse box under the hood like headlights and stuff all got moved into the new fuse box. this wasnt needed but cleaned things up nice and i was able to get all of my relays and fuses in two fatory boxes from the camry under the hood

Ruslex22

Just had to give you props. Was considering a 2jz swap into my 87 IFS runner. I love what you've done, but also showed me how much more work it is than I may want to take on in the short term! Wish i was closer to come take a look at that bad boy

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I like seeing a big project getting done. Great job!!!

blake.nemitz

well it might not be as bad as you think. the entire conversion took 4 days and the 4wd swap took 3 but i wanst trying that hard. if you do decide to let me know and ill give you a list of all the nickle and dime stuff needed.

blake.nemitz

thanks terry

stokes

what clutch set up are you using?

DIESELWRANGLER

What a great swap! Thanks for sharing the process. I would be interested in seeing a list of parts used for this conversion