This is awesome. When you get the transfer case coupled to the transmission, would you mind providing some details of what all is involved?

Thanks.

 

which xcesive mounts did you use?? can you link them?>

 

http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com...step=4&pid=248. here they are
another guy on here used them for a 1jz and im pretty sure he didnt require a body lift.

the nice thing is they are adjustable front to back to get the motor right where you want it. i would have like to push it back for more clearance but at that point i lost clearance everywhere else. whats a guy to do, well i cut out my core support and mounted the radiator behind a trimmed grill.

 

little update, i finished the wiring and fired it up the other day. i drove it out of the shop last night under its own power. pics coming soon i have a bunch but i lost my usb cord for my phone. here is a link to a video of the first start


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

 

since this vid the dash is assembled and the wires are all soldered taped and loomed away. im so darn close but the progress is slower than i would like. still have to mount the grill somehow and get a side terminal battery. the battery is mounted in the stock location but turned 90 degrees to clear my charge pipes. the positive terminal is real close to the bottom of the hood. for now i glued a piece of rubber under the hood where it gets close.

 

guys let me know if the vid doesnt work and ill try to figure it out. ill post a burnout video when it is all buttoned up.

 

well an update. i have everything done and running. I had a low rev limit due to the engine shipping with an NA 2jz maf sensor. The one i needed is completely different. i shipped the wrong one back and am waiting to get the right one back in. After that i can post some vids of driving around and punching it. Kind of frustrating to say the least but i was excited to find out it wasnt a fault in my wiring.

 

this project has been a lot of fun even though it had its hurdles and is grossly over budget but it is done and just waiting on a MAF sensor. ill post more pictures too once i find my usb cord. its a really tight fit but the hood closes with the bumper and grill back on.

 

GZUS, it would require putting the a340e guts in an a340h trans and swap valve bodies or the easy way is to get a swap with a 5 speed, swap out the guts into an r150 trans t case combo. Im going to keep it 2wd and go with a jd fab or total chaos long travel. its too bad esb isnt in the biz anymore.

 

Its awesome to see somebody that's done a jz swap, I'm gonna be starting my in July probably will have a few questions for ya later on down the road. Did you use a stock PCM out of the 2jz? And what axles are you running?

 

Hey Awesome job Man!
What info did you use for the wiring to get it running?
That is my biggest set back right now on my 1j.

 

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring
this is for a 2j but if you look around you might find some 1j stuff

 

its the stock aristo ecu with my factory 4cyl diff. its holding up so far. I clamped the overload leaf to the rest of the pack rear of the axle and it seems to control my axle wrap. once that was fixed i started tearing motor mounts. the driver side has been replaced once and will be using trail gear bomb proof mounts or mounts from xcessive. it launches hard. I got my first ticket for exibition of speed for spinning a tire a little bit. it kind of sucked but then i realized i was just ticketed by an officer outside of his jurisdiction and the ticket is going to get dropped. Im still working on a way to use my phone camera with a gps speed overlaid on the screen to make some videos for you guys.

 

anyone have a a340 mechanical tcase? will buy if you do so i can get 4wd back. Ill divorce it if i need to but dont really want to.

 

Big update, I have been driving the swap the last two years as a 2WD auto. it has been fun with paddleshift and all. I recently put together a 5 speed swap to regain 4WD and I just finished. the transmission is a 1997 T100 R150F. this was behind a 3.4 so it has the longer input shaft like all 96+ r150f's however since its a T100 it still has a passenger drop transfer case. Ok so now I took the bellhousing off and replaced it with one from a 1jz R154 setup. this allowed me to mate my 2jz to my R150F as the R154 and 96+R150F share the same input shaft length and spline. I am running a 1jz flywheel with a stock toyota pull clutch. I was able to re use the stock crossmember with some slotting of the transfer case mount holes. I am also running 22re bombproof motor mounts now as i kept tearing the stock ones. stock front driveshaft retained and the 2wd rear i was running needed shortened up a little. If anyone in the front range needs driveshaft work I use BILLS ENGLEWOOD DRIVESHAFT, they do great work have fair pricing and fast turn around.
Exhaust was a challenge. in the pics here it was before i re did it. after i put the front diff in it needed re routed. snaking a 2.5 to 3 in exhaust under the engine and on top of the diff while crossing over from passenger to driver was a challenge but it came out good.
here are some pics enjoy!

 

adding a clutch pedal. this was interesting. the automatic pedal assembly had the hanger spot for a clutch pedal and was near identical to the manual one.

 

1JZ flywheel bolted on with 7mgte flywheel bolts.

 

adding master cylinder





doing a pull clutch is way easier than a push clutch. you just stack it up on the input shaft and the only thing you have to stab is the pilot bearing. then you bolt on the pressure plate through the inspection holes

 

I had the rear raised higher than the front so woth the drivetrain tilt I could lower the old and lift the new transmission flat and not have to tilt it to line it up and the drivetrain was sitting level with the ass in the air.

 

all bolted in. you can see when it was 2wd i had more than enough room for the exhaust. when i made it 4wd again routing the pipe was a pain