Glad you mentioned that. I found a used driveshaft at a place in Zielenople, hope I don't have the same problem with the bolts. I'm going to go soak my bolts with PB Blaster so I can hopefully swap out my driveshaft later tonight. They wouldn't budge even with a breaker bar? Is there room to get the impact wrench in there?I know its pretty tight clearance around the U joints.

 

Drive shaft nuts/bolts. You use a box end wrench with a second wrench as a lever (hook them together) or get a pipe and use it as a cheater bar.

Only thing I have ever been able to get on there is a box end wrench.

 

I'm picking up wobbler impact sockets to fit that. I remembered DMG using those about the 3rd time I skinned my knuckles.

In the home stretch of pulling the motor: Driveshafts and Shift linkage, then split the trans from the engine. So fa the worst part has been dealing with rusted/seized bolts.

 

Nice progress on the swap. I would think that pulling the engine out, and dropping the trans/t-case seperatly would be the easiest. Don't forget the pics.

 

When my friend did my engine swap it took him 4 guys and a lot of time to pull out the engine/tranny combo. I'd suggest unbolting it and dropping it like its hot

 

Great! That's all I need - a little Snoop running through my head when I'm down there... Thanks alot! Fo' shizzle...

 

JD, this idea is brilliant! I'll use it in my next two engine pulls... should be in a few months here....

 

OK, back at it tonight. Although only for about 45minutes. I had a big project that chewed up ALL of my time for the last week. The good news... my wife and kids are off to DC for the weekend, so I'll hopefully get alot done this weekend. I need to make a trip to the Lexus dealer for some gaskets and starter contacts though - hope they stock some of that stuff...

Tonight I tore more of the engine apart to get to the starter so I can replace the contact. As seen in previous picks, it would one big mo fo to do with the engine in the vehicle.

Lower intake plenum


Lower plenum out


Starter




Pull the cover and it looks just like the 3VZE starter I replaced the contacts on last November...


Plunger out..


The contacts weren't in bad shape, but I'm replacing them anyway. I noticed they have alot more surface area than the 3VZE starter contacts did.

I'm welding up a cradle to insert in my floor jack so I can pull the trans/t-case easily . I was looking online at tranny jacks and they are just glorified floor jacks with a cradle.

I did NOT take a crack at the driveshaft bolts tonight though. Probably tomorrow...

 

Mike,
I was up at Davis Toyota today checking on the progress of my header removal and misc. other repairs. I asked about the secret to removing the driveshaft bolts and they said no secret, put a box wrench on each side and then slide a cheater bar or piece if pipe over the open end of the box wrench.
In other news...I got the header welded back together today by the shop that installed my stainlees steel exhaust, my dented driveshaft ruined the pinion seal in my rear diff so Toyota is going to fix that, install a used driveshaft I picked up in Zeilenople today, re-install the header, replace my air conditioning idler pulley, replace my broken parking brake cable, remove the bolt out of my front shock adsorber that is rusted solid inside the eye of the shock, replace the bushings and hardware on the front anti-sway bar which loosed up during the Paragon trip, oh and one my cross drilled rotors has hairline cracks in it, my front calipers are sticking.

Sheez, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!

 

I have had diffculty removing driveline bolts in the past. 14mm. I did this just last night.

If it's tough, I put a box end wrench on the nut toward the differential/t-case side. I use another box end wrench on the bolt side, and a 2.5lb hammer. eventually the differential/t-case side wrench will come up against the flange, and stop moving. Then it's easy to get the other wrench moving. If things are VERY diffucult, I grab the flange wrench... six sided, effectively closed. Yes, the hammer is abusive on a nice tool like that, but what else are ya gonna do?

Although, This was probably in your list of "tried everything".... it's easy to think to use hammers. If so, hit me up for the "Caption Obvious" award!

Good luck with the bolts.

-Dan

 

OK so this is why Toyota claims it takes a whole hour to change the driveshaft. I thought that was rediculous. Maybe its actually a deal

As always Mike, let me know if you need a hand.

 

Thanks Bill - I got your message the other day - I was comng off of a 30+ hour stint of putting a bid package together, so I was catching up on some sleep. My wife and kids are out this weekend - I'd like to get the motor/trans out if possible...

 

Have you seen this? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f78/twisty_toy94s-profile-v8-2nd-gen-4runner-63001/

 

Yep. I saw his rig a long time ago over on Lextreme actually.

That rig is part of the reason I even attempted this swap!

 

I've also read his thread over at lextreme. Awesome mod, pretty installation. There were some big differences between what Twisty did and what Cebby is doing. Primarily, Twisty used a manual transmission, and had a shop do the work for him.

There are two (maybe more?) shops in AUS that make bellhousing adapters for the 1UZFE:
Dellow Automotive
Castlemaine Rod Shop

IIRC, from Castelmain it's about $600AU for the bellhousing, and about $1500AU for an entire kit (clutch, fork, bearings, etc). Also, Twisty had his installed for him at the shop, so not much personal wrenching involved. His installation thread on lextreme has some good pictures. My favorite are the pictures of the engine mounts - very well done. Another nice set of mounts are from a FJ80/2UZFE swap. Closeups of the 1UZ and 2UZ blocks show they are very similar, so mounting holes should be in the same location.

 

Cebby, this post goes back a couple of pages. The lines coming off of the spoked pulley in the middle of the engine are for the Hydraulic Cooling Fan, It works kind of like a p/s pump and then a solenoid duty cycles the fluid to change fan speed. The water pump is actually driven by the timing belt. Your donor motor must be out of a SC400 because the LS never had a hydraulic fan. Not sure but you might need a LS pulley instead of the one on it? My 2 cents on your project. Can't wait to see it finished.

 

Any updates? Get any work done this weekend? Awesome swap and thread.

 

Nothing new currently. I got caught up in some other things this past weekend unfortunately. I think I get more chances to work on it during the week.

Thanks for the info LexusBen. My motor is from a JDM vehicle, so the hydro fan must have been available on whatever this motor came out of. As far as I know, the SC400 (aka Soarer elsewhere) was mid or rear sump - my motor is front sump.

 

That's not a bad Idea at all...but Toy guy's will automaticly poo poo it cause it's not toy running gear...Funny how guy's will put Chevy junker engines in things, but not Jeep parts.


I'm a big fan of my Toy... don't get me wrong, but as far as gas motors go, I'll take a 4.0L mated to an NP242 over nearly anything else...aside from the Original FJ inline 6, there has never been a sweeter engine sold in a 4x4...4.oL's are flat out BALSY... add a supercharger and they'll smoke built v-8's... I love my 22RE to death cause it motors around very nicely, and it get's great milage, but my Cherokee has the motor that dreams are made of...not to mention the NP242 being one of the best all around T-cases made in the last 10 years......

So to clarify...Toyota = Awsome, Jeep = Awsome just less reliable

That said, my Runner will some day sport the mother of all 4x4 motors, the 4.2L Turbo Diesel...kinda like an unholy union of the two

 

I have a Jeep GC also with the 4.0 I6. It is a nice motor, but only slightly less thirsty than the 3.0 in the 2G 4Runner. (Granted my JGC has crappy gearing though).

The AW4 and A340X are both made by Aisin. I don't have a problem with the AW4 being in a Jeep. I'm trying to avoid dismantling the entire trans if at all possible. Swapping outputs requires this. Plus, I already have the Toy cases and they are plenty capable of taking abuse.

My IFS will be the weak link in this rig once the swap is done. Especially now that I picked up the Tundra TC.