On the trans topic, couldn't a person use a auto from a 96-01 jeep cherokee? They are called a AW4. They look exactly like the Lexus trans and already have both in & output speed sensors. The bellhousing removes and the lexus bellhousing bolt right inplace. I have already mocked a LS400 engine to a AW4 from a cherokee and it all bolts up perfect. Also it is a 4wd trans and t-case options are plenty.
I have not wired it up thou. The cherokee AW4 uses a seperate computer in the jeep, wander if the lexus computer would run it?

 

^ thats good info

 

The transmission would physically bolt up to the lexus bellhousing but I doubt the electronics would be the same. Even the 96-02 pickup/4runner version of the Aisin tranmission has different electronics than the Lexus one. You would be better off using the output from a Jeep version of the tranny and put it on the Lexus transmission. Then I'm not sure if the spline count on the output is the same. Another thing to consider is which side the drop is on the Jeep t-case. I don't know what it is but the 79-95 Toyota is right side and 96 and up Toy is left.

 

you could find out if the sensors send the same signals.. or function the same, ie resistance and such.. but they might have diff valve body's and shift patterns, i don't know of a jeep engine that rev's to 6k, but then again it may work perfect? just my two cents..
o update... i should have known this but it looks like i need a sc400 rear sump after doing the first test fit the oil pan hits the crossover bar before the engine is even close to being in place.. need to do more research....

 

well FINALY made some progress got the motor in and mounted, still need to do some finish work on the mounts but they are in place and bolted on

o and on the last post i am a jackass... disregard that post .....

okay on with pics:
test fitting...


mounted.. i cut out the core support to ease install removal, i will weld it back in when i am done, plus i prolly have to mod it for cooling reasons...


mounts, and clearance from firewall, i still need to do some clean up then paint but i ran out of daylight..
passenger side


driver side



trans will be a tight fit but will help ground clearance.


i bolted the bell housing the the engine to help with clearance and such, seemed to help get a better idea of things...
i may have to route the ebrake and speedo cable underneath the trans
to keep them from getting pinched..

 

lookin good dude.. if your going to run an electric fan/fans or coolant temp gauge i would suggest you drill and tap for them while the engien is all apart.. i forgot to and now i have rip everything apart to drill and tap into the coolant crossover pipe.. just an FYI

Good luck

 

it will be in this stage for some time... i am going to tackle the wiring and stuff once i finish the mounts.
i want to get the engine started and such before i bolt the trans on... kinda nice to be able to start it minus the trans
i might have the trans rebuilt wile its out just to ensure that it is in good working order pluss its cheap if you just take it in, drop it off and say here fix the this...

 

Are you making solid motor mounts?

 

looking good man.. looks like you have alot of room at the fire wall, i had to bang the hell out of my firewall , and the e brake bracket.

the mount on the drivers side looks like its 1/8 steel plate is it ? or is that just the camera angle..

Good luck with the wiring ,its a headache..

 

its 3/16. as is the tube... it will be plenty..
and yeah there solid.
so i may be sending my harness to phoenix tuning, thinking if i want the hassleof the wiring... hmmm

 

okay FINALLY made some progress..... got started on the wiring, its going good but i hit a bump, i am not getting spark. i have power to the coil's.. but after typing that i realized i didn't check for power at the igniter? hmm
and i decided to just wire up the fuel pump to a switch. make it easy for now till i get everything arranged..

any input on the no spark would be appreciated... thanks

good news, everything else is going smooth

back to research.

 

......hghsjdfhksahfkshdf!!!.....
we have spark!
yay!

okay well after double checking my work, and reviewing this diagram i made.
found i needed to switch a few wires, and add a few more. i haven't checked for
injector firing but if i have igniter signal, i should have injector signal.

once i know everything is working fine i will post up my diagram for the swap.
if its

and if your curious, i have not added any relays, just used the factory toy stuff..

 

progress??

 

yes!...
no fuel pump power figured out... hooked up the fuel lines..
started the engine and it ran on all 8 and reved past 3k..(i assumed it did?) so good signe there

After making sure the engine ran how it was supost to i took the whole harness back out to make it look pretty and remove a couple plugs to do with the egr stuff.. i will post the pics of the harness when i get home tonight, my computer at work doesn't have flash instlled so photobucket is way slow.

exhaust: well R side manifold cleared everyhting just fine.
L side i had to shorten to clear the stearing.

for the most part the engine is in, running well after i reinstall my anarexic?(sorry i can't spell) and face lifted harness.

Still need to tackle the cooling stuff, and bolt the trany up and wire it back in. i pulled all the wires for the trany and condensing them into a seperate harness, will post some pics of that when i am done.

 

UPDATE:.. my fresh new skinny harness installed, fit great!. got the right flare tool and installed fuel lines, no leaks!..

engine starts right up and idles good, will idle better when i get all my intake stuff hooked up and rout my iac hose to were its supposed to be.

and for the pics......



i started it without my maf plugged in.. oops.. well it started ?? lol anyway.

these are some progress pics..

before.

after.

all sorted and ready to go in.

hacksaw meets thumb... ouch..

left side manifold shortened to clear steering.

 

lookin awesome dude!! keep it up

 

well got my covers back on, looks much better now.


and my stock RAD cleares.. just have to modify the upper side a little so the hose doesn't hit the t-belt cover on the L side. so once again cool beans.

 

good work on the harness man .. so i was reading thru your thread again .. you dont have a body lift ? right .. i read where you were thinking you needed the sc pan and pick up .. but that wont work without alot of modification to the pan and pick up...also so you had to shorten the left manifold (driver side) it was hitting the steering ..

isnt the engine sitting high .. your gonna run a hood scoop .

and yea yota 3.0 suggested drilling and tapping for the sensor while you have things apart .. thats a good idea.. i ended up putting a housing inline with the hose .
good luck!! your almost there

 

hood clears just fine. and yes NO body lift.
I am using: LS front sump, and oil filter ped.
stock rad won't work(damn)
i am using the lexus temp sender for the gauge, should be that single pin plug on the front
right side of the intake man. yellow wire i believe.

 

cool thanks man .. not trying to be an ass or anything just curious .. these swaps can be done so many different ways.