I need somebody to come by and kick me in the sweet and tenders.

I read, studied, reread and stared at pics and re-reread threads on this swap.

Now I need to get into here,


so that I can flip the fuel line. Yup, I'm a dumbarse. I completely forgot about it in the hype of getting to put the engine in that I didn't do it.

I have the end unbolted, now I just need to get to the strap that holds it to the block. ANY IDEAS HERE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED AND POSSIBLY REWARED.

On a light note, could that be, where is it, what happened to it.....


Why yes there it is....


The ABS actuator decided to go for a walk and never come back.... I had some trouble undoing the lines, and after the frustration of the fuel line, and a little , it decide to best vacate the frame rail.


And since I didn't do it a couple of weeks ago, here are the manditory empty bay pics...





Any ideas on how to unbolt that fuel line strap without removing the engine would be really helpful now.


On a parting note, I have discovered one great side effect to having had a 3.0, and that is there is soo much oil in the engine bay that the thing should never rust.

 

I think what I am going to do is jack the trans. up and try to tilt the motor forwards a bit to allow more room in there to work. Toyonlyswaps should receive my core crossover tomorrow, and a week later I should be getting my new one back. YEAH!! And I have ordered my battery box from Ballistic Fab. Some things are coming along.

 

Just FYI on the mounting of the battery box. If you look at mine I had to fab some spacers so it would sit flat. I used square tubing I think....I cant remember. Bolt through battery box, tubing, and then through the fender. 4 bolts total and its solid as a rock.

Just saying cause it will not sit flat on the wheel well.

If you are a week out EBAY may be a good source to find some UHMW block to use for spacers. That would be ideal IMO. If you order now, they should all arrive at the same time

 

I'm really gonna catch a break here, my father-in-law drives a '96 4Runner that he is gonna leave with me for a few days so that I can see just what hose goes where on mine. My 3.4 is out of a '96, so this should be very straight forward.

 

Yes, I removed the actuator as well. That thing was a mess. Makes the motor compartment much cleaner.

I replace the brake line to the rear from a non-abs truck as well and also removed the LPSV from the rear. I installed a proportioning valve from Summit and have it cranked all the way open. No ill effects.

That would have been nice to have a vehicle sitting there that you know is put together properly. I relied on internet pictures.

 

WOO HOO, got the fuel line flipped without pulling the engine! Again for anyone who might consider doing this swap, read the other write-ups from dntsdad, cadman, elvolta, and mt goat. My swap is a train wreck compared to theirs. This thread is just to keep me from losing my sanity (almost done) and so I can go back and see what I've done for myself.

Also done tonight, starter in, trans fully bolted up, t-stat in, alternator hanging on bracket (problems there), wiring tail and firewall gromet started on, and a couple of hoses removed that will be replaced by new ones, and dash unbolted.

All in about 4 hours. On a roll, now. But gotta work next three days, so no progress till Thursday.

 

LOL. Mine was a trainwreck at times too. I just didnt post all that stuff!!

 

Toyonlyswaps.com just contacted me this evening and I believe my crossover pipe is done and will be shipped either Wednesday or Thursday. This is a good thing. There will be pics of it before it goes in.

 

Started the wiring today. No problem pulling the wires out of one connecter and inserting it into another, just trying to make heads or tails of which one goes where. My 3.4 has a W/L wire the supplies power to various things, and the plug is a different size than where I "think" it goes...also it looks like this wire is to take the place of 3...

Also, my 3.4 is out of an auto, going to man. What did anybody do with the trans wires to be in "N"?

 

This is actually true. It is time consuming, but not too difficult..just gotta be patient and triple check my connections.

 

why was it easy for me? I guess its because I took my time reading all the write ups that i could taking notes of my own before i even started to look for a motor.

 

My electric fan install is gonna have to wait, the back of the fan is up against the fan belt pulleys. But I did get the starter wired in, the altenator in and plugged up, and a few more wires swapped over in to the proper plug (hopefully right plug). Running into a few minor issues with the wiring, like the b/w wire that goes to the starter. I have a connection point on the old wiring inside the cab, but the only connection point for the new wiring is our on top of the battery. Feel free to post any issues you guys had with your wiring and what you did to fix it.

 

I ran my own starter wire. In your kick panel in the 3.0 harness there will be a larger B/W wire. I joined that wire with my own wire that I ran to the starter b/w wire that goes to the STA pin on the ECM.

 

Update,

I do get to use my electric fan after all. Amazing how a little goes a long way. Now I just need to get it wired right. As far as the starter wire, I think since I removed my ABS, I will try to alter the relay plug on both ends so I don't have to undo all the work that's been done to secure the wiring harness to the firewall. Just takes time. Really only that and maybe 3-4 more connections under the dash and that's done. My cross over didn't come today , but it's not like that's the last piece I need. I still need a power steering pump and lines, as well either modify or replace the brake lines.

It's soo close, I'm afraid that I'm forgetting something......

 

Right here is the reason I thought my electric fan was gonna have to wait....



But a bit of and now





And look what came on Thursday...









I'd love to able to take the credit for it, but the guys at www.Toyonlyswaps.com did a beautiful job. I'm just ticked that I scratched the paint by installing it. It would have been so much easier to have just waited to put the cross over on before installing the engine, but I need to get it in to start on the wiring.

I am almost to the point of test starting it, but before I do, I want to triple check and test all connections that I've made. Any of you guys that went with the auto ECU into a manual truck, what did you do with the wiring for the trans.? I'm thinking that if I just leave it alone, it should think that it's in neutral the whole time. Ideas or put downs welcomed.

 

Just another step closer. Need to get a longer battery cable to the starter, or I would have tried to turn it over.

Got the relay in for the fan.



and ran the wiring for the switch. Then realized that I needed a panel for switches and came up with this...


peice of scrap metal from work


cut the back off the cubby that sits under the radio.


Unfortunately, I broke a part of it in the process, but this is it. Now just need some toggle switches and to drill some holes.

Now the list of things left to do:
Power steering and hoses
Brake line
wiring of H plug from ECU
dip stick
air filter
battery box
replace rear 3rd member seal
extend diff breathers
find a VSV EVAP sensor and a VSV Vapor pressure sensor (can these be shorted and not needed?)
put in toggle switches
starter cable
get my gear shifters back from where they are supposed to be getting stretched.


I maybe forgeting a few things right now...

Don't be afraid to tell me if I am.

 

I need to know which two contacts to solder the 1k ohm resistor across. Tried searching and can't find it again.

 

Dntsdad, the wires off your ECU that didn't go to anything, like ABS, what did you do with them?

 

IT LIVES . Started for the first time today. Tried uploading video, but youtube is being a pain. Now on to the punch list of little things to get done.

 

Check here about half way down.........and its not 1k ohm........its 10k.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...23/index8.html


I removed them from the plugs. At first I just capped them off but space is limited in the kick panel so the less wires in there the better.