Will do!

 

We went out and unbolted the motor mount today and tried to figure out what was wrong. The only thing that I could think of was that the mounts themselves were bad or compressed to the point that it was sitting to low in the motor compartment. That's impossible I would think for that rubber to compress that much so I figured something had to be positioned wrong.

We unbolted the two small bolts and nuts and lifted it up a few inches and tried dropping it back on. Knowing that the AC compressor was an issue we were mindful of it this time and after some serious cussing, pushing, pulling, etc. I think that we have it in place correctly. Everything looks pretty good but it is still close but clearance should not be an issue.




It was getting dark so we finished up a few small things. I started looking at how to run the harness in the firewall and took the grommet off the 3.0 harness and cut the metal flange off the 3.4 harness. I may see if the fuel hose off the Runner may work to fill the void. Reused the stock harness bracket to support and secure the harness as well. Drilled a hole because even though there are dozens of holes everywhere on the inner fenders of the truck, nothing that would work. I welded a nut on the bottiom side and got it secure under the AC lines.




Since the motor was in wrong the first time that meant that my grind job and the flange of the crossover was also wrong so I had to touch that up as well.




Feeling pretty good about getting that in there. I have been nervous as hell and racking my brain trying to figure the cause. Frustrating that it was over Christmas and could not get out there to try to figure it out. Anyway, onto other things now!

 

guess i'm a little late to help but... looks like you're getting most of the stuff figured out yourself. As for cruise and abs... they run on seperate cpu's just unplug them and you shouldn't have any problems. As for your wiring...
i seperated the tranny wires from the rest of the 3.0 harness and repined the 3.4 wires to the 3.0 plugs. So you're not messing with the wires in the truck just on the engine end.

 

thanks vital.....on a side note. I am still thinking of the AC in the back on my mind. I wonder how hard it would be to retro all the 3.4 electronics into the 92?? The ac box, blower housing are very similar in size just looking at them with the 92 stuff still in place but I wonder if they would swap with eachother with some minor mods.

Am I right that have the AC figured out though already?

 

I used 3.4 pump replaced the reciever/dryer with a new one. cleaned out the system. Added the proper amount of oil, and vacumed the system to make sure its sound. Replaced the 3.0 amp with the 3.4 amp and charged the system. Worked for me. So everying else besides the amp and pump are from my 92 truck.

 

In an effort to save precious space in the kick panel, I was thinking of just pulling all the abs/cruise wires/terminals from the ecm plugs so I dont have to "cap" them off. This is the way to do it then I assume since they are going to nowhere anyway? Off the top of my head, I figure I can take 10-12 wires out saving a substantial amount of space.

 

Going through and hooking up the little hoses and I must have lost some tape that were my identifiers.

In this picture, I think that:
A: goes to the fuel tank vent line
B: Goes to the air cleaner
C: I have no idea




Is this correct? and if so can you post a shot of the routing of C and where is ends up. If I read it correctly in the FSM it is a vent but again, not sure where its proper place is.

thanks

 

c) just dumps down and away from everying. Like behind the fender, Its just a vent.

 

Started working on some of the hose and routing of everything today. Decided to tackle the heater hoses, fuel lines, EVAP lines, replace the throttle cable, etc.

First the heater hoses. All the hoses on the 3.4 had just been replaced so I felt fine about reusing them. Some of the hoses on my 3.0 had been changed recently but not all of them. I didnt note what combination I used because honestly i just threw them all in a pile and started looking at curves and what was going to work where. I think that i came up with a good combination after many unsuccessful attempts. Luckily for me the 4Runner had rear heat so i robben the nipples on the lines to install with the T fittings. As has been mentioned in many other threads, these will be good to "burp" the system of air.






I just hit the insides with a few tacks from the welder to seal them shut.







Getting the heater hoses off was a real pain in the butt. I think someone installed superglue or something to seal them. Anyway, this valve did not survive the uninstall process. From the looks of it, it was ready to fail anyway so its good that we changed it out.



Luckily I had the one off the Runner to replace it with and it looked brand new inside and out. I just had to change the arm that controls the valve inside as it is a different height.


Hoping to avoid having to cut the hoses off in the future like I did many of these, I used some lube that I had from replacing some large Orings on my swimming pools DE filter valve. This is suppose to be a super lubricant that stands up to water, even in heating elements in heated pools. I had it laying around so i reamed the inside of every hose with a liberal coating. Hopefully it works in the future.




I needed to run a line from the EVAP box to the fuel return line on the other side of the motor compartment as well. I didnt want to run a runner line along the top as I wanted everything to look as factory as possible. I had removed the clutch line to the slave and I thought about reinstalling that but it was smaller than the stock EVAP line. While I do not think that this makes any difference, I might to the ref I thought (although probably not) and better safe than sorry. I ended up using the clutch line as a guide to bend a fuel return line from the Runner that I cut out. The larger one on the bottom is the fuel return that I made.





Strange that the rust on the booster is barely noticeable with the naked eye even in the sunlight and in the picture it looks like its been in the ocean for 10 years.






That done I was onto the harness. I started fiddling with the harness grommet and protective rubber and it felt strange so I started to unwrap the gray tape that was holding it in the center. Luckily, what I expected to find was indeed the case. The rubber is much longer inside than it appears. It just needs to be pulled apart a bit and stretched. I didn't get a lot of pictures of this because while pulling the harness up and down the wires I was also spraying heavily with WD-40 so everything would move. Without the lubricant the rubber would barely move. This caused my hands to be very nasty so no touchie the camera.




I then took the piece of the harness that is towards the plugs and pushed (lots of WD-40) it through the stock 3.0 grommet.




Then I stretched the two harnesses together in the center to make sure they would cover each other. There is about 2-3 inches of overlap so that will work. I zip ties them in place and will seal it with some fusing tape when it arrives.



All in place, I took the stock mounting tab and relocated it on the fender I think i showed in a prior picture. If not, here it is again.









Installed the booster hose with the 92 check valve. Not the prettiest install but it should work.




Tried to install the ac lines but the one from the firewall is now about 2-3 inches too short. I changed the top plate on the compressor but I guess the compressor bracket changes that physical location of the compressor maybe. I'll have to research that and figure something out.




I could not get the 3.0 throttle cable to adjust the way I thought was correct so i finally got tired of fooling with it and robbed the cable from the 3.4 and it went on perfect with zero mods.




I also ran a new fuel line from the filter to the motor and rerouted it so that it would be a bit further away from the crossover. It now run on top of the frame and up into the fenderwell by the brake lines. I think that it is much less likely to explode now so that's good.

Anyone see anything wrong in any of this, please let me know.

 

Use the 3.0 compressor and swap the 3.4 pulley onto it.

 

I dont have a 3.0 compressor. Mine had been frozen for a while. Long before the motor spun a bearing. i was hoping to keep this 3.4 compressor on there, even if i have to get a small extension or even a new hose as thats cheaper than the compressor. Also, that would allow me to change to r134 which is MUCH cheaper here and widely available here in California.

Outside of the hose issue, are there any other reasons to change back to the 3.0 compressor?

 

My understanding is you can use your 3.4 compressor, you just need to swap your 3.0 plate with the hoses onto it.

I haven't done this part yet, since my truck never came with A/C, anyhow, but I've gotten most of the parts together for it.

 

Hi Rob

Ya I did swap the top plate but it still doesn't reach. I wonder if swapping the old 3.0 bracket and using the 3.4 pump would save a new hose from being purchased. I'll look into this today maybe.

 

Having some issues getting the alternator in. The 3.0 alt just seems like I am never going to get it over enough for a properly tight belt to be installed but I know some(if not most) of you guys have used the 3.0.

The 3.4 fits better but the stock belts will never get tight as I run out of room hitting the steering rag joint. I would think that I can find the same belt in a 1" shorter version but that may take a lot of looking and I know that average Autozone kid is going to tire of that.

I still think that the motor may be a tad too far to the driver side. I need to get the trans on ASAP.

Can you guys post what alt you used and the belt brand and part number if you have it handy.

 

3.4 alternator, stock 3.4 belt and unmodified 3.4 alternator adjustment bracket. Had to slide the plastic guard up about an inch, but other than that there are no clearance issues. Initially I cut the end of the adjustment bracket off as recommended by ORS and lost the stock belt tensioning capability. Adjusting the belt tension was a bitch and there was no way to get it to recommended tension without a gorilla with a crowbar helping (I actually use a belt tension gauge). It looked like there was some room for an unmodified bracket so I bought another one and sure enough it fits, close but it fits.

 

Damn it. I have something wrong then cause there is no way in hell mine stock tension bracket is going on there. I cut the end off yesterday and now it fits better. Ya, using the vein popping on the forehead method of adjusting the belt doesnt appeal to me either. I gotta figure something out here.

Thanks much for the reply

 

I used the stock 3.4 bracket, alternator, and belt. My adjustment screw under the alternator was seized solid, so I ended up removing it and doing the prybar/vein popping method. By myself, no less, and have had zero issues with it in 93 000 kms.

 

I used the 3.0 alt and modified the 3.4 lower bracket.Iam running the same belt as the ps had to remove the plastic guard on steering.Works just fine got about 200 miles on swap just working out all the bugs.

 

Thanks guys. I think that I am just pissing in the wind until I have the transmission in place since moving the motor forward and backward makes a difference on how much clearance I have.

Also, I started to mount up the airbox and all the same issues. Depending on where the motor sits determines where the airbox will sit since there is little to no play in the runner boot.

I think that I have a line on an auto tranny crossmember that hopefully I will pick up tomorrow and manhandle that tranny/transfer in there with NO tranny jack.

Cant even express how much I appreciate the advice/help/suggestions!!

 

Ummmm if ur using the 3.0 motor mounts the engine shouldnt be moving forward and back it should have only one place it can sit it might tilt slightly with out the transmission but not move forward or back. and the 3.0 POST 92 Alternator works on the 3.4 brackets. the PRE 92 alternator does not work. As far as the A/C. You have to remember that the ONLY difference in the Bottom/Block's of these 2 engines (3.0 vs 3.4) is Bore. that is THE ONLY differnce. other then that the blocks are identical and as far as i know the a/c brackets are identical as well. i cant remember at this point which bracket i used i believe it was the 3.4 bracket. but i do know that i used the 3.4 compressor with the 3.0 plate. i cant say for sure that i was the first to do it but i certainly hadn't seen or heard of anyone else doing it prior to mine. so i gambled and it worked beautifully. if its not working on yours u may have the wrong hoses. I did use one 3.4 hose the one from the compressor to the firewall is 3.4 hose. but the other 3.4 hose wouldn't fit on the 3.0 plate and route to the condenser