dntsdad

When I say "forward to back" I mean that since there is nothing stopping movement (transmission) it will rock, or tilt, back and forth.

I never took the ac bracket off the 3.4 so i know that its the 3.4 motor bracket, the 3.0 hose never came apart from my firewall so I know that is the 3.0 hose and its about 2-3 inches too short. I may trying swapping the bracket but I think just getting a longer hose would be so much easier.

I am going to wait till the trans is in and then go from there.

thefallman

try useing the 3.4 a/c hose from firewall to pump. thats what i did on mine worked great.

RobD

The hoses that came with my 3.4 compressor have different fittings than the evaporator, so I couldn't use them.

dntsdad

Thanks Fallman, I will check that out tomorrow. I was thinking about that earlier but didn't feel like walking out to the backyard to find the hose. Now I am to the point where I really want to button up that side of the motor so I need to get on it.

The transmission not being installed has really been slowing me down as of lately as without it installed I have ne reference point as the motor will rock back and forth and I need the transmission in there and mounted (at least close to where it will be mounted) so that I can install the alternator, airbox, radiator and shroud, etc.

We decided to get that in before we do anything else. I have been dreading this step, even so much as to putting it off, much like the wiring but it had to be done. I called around and nobody I knew had a tranny jack and renting one was ridiculous and buying one even more so. Hello Redneck engineering.

I was thinking of UKRunner and all the issues he has been having getting his installed and such and was just hoping that I wouldn't have the same.

First, my son cut the heads of some spare bolts and cut a slot for a standards screwdriver so we could get them out. These will act like guide as we mate the motor and transmission together. Nothing shocking here but maybe someone hasn't done this before as they read this.




We then cut a piece of wood for the trans to sit on. Our first try was some 3.4" melamine that I had laying around and that snapped like a wooded match I cranked on the strap. I found a piece of alder from a prior project and that proved plenty strong. Notice the strap around the jack base. It was actually very secure on there.




After that I was under the truck and I had a buddy over and my son. My son in the rear working the jack, and my buddy and me on either side. I ended up having to cut about 8" off that board in the pic because it was catching on the stabilizer so it ended up about 3" longer than the front of the pan.

A minor amount of raising, lowering, sliding the jack left to right and it slid in. I got very fortunate I guess. From the time my back hit the concrete floor it was bolted in within 15 minutes.

Now I need to figure out a mount. Since this transfer case will come out after I smog it to change to a gear driven case, I will just weld a bracket together to make it drivable, but not offroad.



With that done I could move to the alternator. I have been looking at this closely and not seeing how it was going to fit even rocking the motor forward and backwards on the mounts. With the transmission in it doesn't appear too bad but I cut the bracket where the tensioner ear is and now I'll have to order another one. Cadman was nice enough to supply the part number as I could not find them on my EPC that I downloaded.
Very, very useful program by the way.
This is it in action. I didn't buy it from this guy. I found it on a torrent site. If you don't know what a torrent is, those are one way people download movies, music, and almost anything that is digital. Never me though

I don't really care as to what alternator I use as they are both stock units and I honestly do not know that output of either. I would assume that the 3.4 unit is higher as its a newer model and therefore more electrical demands and it came off this motor so decided to use that one. As was installing it, I notice this.




Obviously the pulley didn't survive that crash that this was in so onto the 3.0 unit. After 10 minutes of trying to get the thing on the upper mount I about threw it through the window. It would not slide into the upper bracket so I measured to see what what going on since I have read countless threads of people using the 3.0 alternator.

The 3.4:




The 3.0:




Not a major difference but apparently enough to cause it not to go on. I started to get the grinder but then noticed this.





I am not sure of the proper name of that but I'll call it a bushing. Anyway, that was causing the 3.0 not to go into the bracket so I moved it a tad.





The socket is larger than the bushing so tightening the clamp pulls the bushing back and out of the mouth of the bracket.

I forgot to take pictures but I wasn't really excited about the way the 3.0 unit fit so and I thought about buying a new pulley for the 3.4 when I noticed that the two alternators have the same pulley. Hit the nuts with the impact and swapped them really quick. Luckily, I didn't need a puller to remove the pulleys because I don't have one.

Now I could install the 3.4 unit like I wanted to. This still doesnt fit all that well however. I rubs on the steering shaft and that is not even with a properly tightened belt. I loosed the bolts on the steering box and slid it off the frame about 1/8 inch, which of course, moves the steering shaft over as well. I have read about lots of guys gusseting their frames and I know most do it on the inside but I have seen many do the outside as well with 1/4" plate so my move shouldn't effect anything negatively I wouldn't think. Anyone disagree?




Now I have plenty of room.




Before I started on the airbox, I wanted address the wiring of the fuse panel. I don't know how much of a believer I am in needing 4ga. into the fuse panel under the hood. Looking at the circuits that are in there, I doubted it even more. I made my own relay bypass for the headlight awhile back so I contemplated taking the time to run 4ga. into there. I really thing 8ga. would have been more than sufficient even with the placement further away from the battery, its only about 6 feet with wire routing.

However, when I was looking through my box of wires I found some 4ga. from a prior stereo install of mine and said what the hell. In hindsight 8ga. would have been so much easier!!

First I opened up the bottom of the fuse panel to see what what was in there and how I would get the 4ga in and where it needed to go.




After seeing this I thought again about the 8ga. and how much easier it would be but no guts, no glory.

I drilled out the stock hole to accept and plastic, push in grommet and noticed that this was going to be a real bitch to get in. In the picture, the white wire is completely in the way.




I unplugged its match on the top of the panel and removed the wires from the plugs. Luckily there was an empty hole next to it so i moved them both so the 4ga would pass into the panel. I must have forgotten to take a shot but you can see the white wire in this shot moved to the next spot over.




Now how to attach 4ga. to the relatively small block on the fuse panel feed. Further digging in my box of wiring stuff and I found this. I thought that it would perfectly.




I took the large white wire off the block, moved both red wires to one lug that they now share, and attached the 4ga.





It all slid into the track pretty well.




Now could I get the bottom back on was what I was thinking?

It was a very tight fit but after careful routing of the 4ga to give it a path that made it tuck into the fusepanel the bottom snapped back in fairly easily. I did give it a pretty tight squeeze, but I was relieved when it didn't squeeze back and stayed shut. Then I realized I forgot to install the grommet and had to start all over

All done, the second time.




I left it sitting there as I am not sure where its final location will be until I start on the airbox. All told I spent a good few hours on this and probably very much overkill......but that's better than under I guess. I also considered attaching that white wire as well and running a small aux panel next to this one as there was a blank for another large fuse next to the alt. fuse for small accessories but decided not to temp fate as everything went fairly smooth and I was worried about overloading those bolts on the main lug with too many connectors and if it stripped the threads I would be screwed and shopping for a new fuse panel in the classifieds.

Onto the airbox.

I really like the snorkel under the fender and working on this pickup convinced me even more. Comparing the amount of dirt, oil, and overall nasty crap in the motor compartment to that of the area behind the fender only reaffirmed the snorkel. I figure nobody has ever washed behind the fender and it was 10 times cleaner than the inner fender well under the hood so that just means cleaner air hitting the filter is my thought.

The stock airbox was covered in grime and dirt so I cleaned that up with a rough sponge, a toothbrush, and lots dish soap in the driveway. Then ran it through the dishwasher. SSSShhhhhhhh. It was already very clean before hand but I ran a cycle afterwards empty to clean it out afterwards.




The airbox is bit tricky because the fender overlaps the inner fender a tad so with the fender off it looks like you have more room for the lid to open than you actually do.

Fender removed:




Fender in place:




Found this in the fender when I removed it. I'll leave it, since this is actually a pretty good idea, and tap into it when we install and alarm later.




There are three bracket that hold the box in place from the factory. I ended up cutting off two of them and used that one that is on the bottom left, near the passenger headlight. I placed the box where I thought that it should be with the fender in place and then marked through the mounting hole onto the metal where the battery once was and drilled a hole and put a nut on top. I ran a bolt up through the bottom to hold it tight and then tacked the bolt to the body.



This will mount that one factory ear to the truck. The tube from the throttle body is very rigid so that will provide enough support I think for the rear so i just needed to control lateral movement.

I did basically the same thing for the other side except I used a longer bolt through the box since its before the air filter, and drilled a hole and tacked a nut underneath the metal.






I scavenged some rubber mounts and stacked two of them together.




Uncompressed, it sits high towards the driver's side, but as you tighten the bolt it begins the level and sits perfectly level (I had the level on it) without squishing the rubber mount too badly. All in all its very solid but still will allow minor flexing.

Some shots installed.






Now to get the snorkel installed.

I used the hole in the box and ran a Sharpie around the inside of the hole and then cut the metal with my airbody saw mentioned earlier in this thread. I couldnt find my holesaw but the bodysaw worked perfectly anyway. really not much to take pictures of but a hole but here is an installed picture. I found some bent brackets and drilled holes for nuts and bolts and with the arc in the brackets, they provide a good amount of tension to hold the 90 in place well. I also had some aluminum angle so i cut a small piece to support the end. Didn't get a pic of it but it wasn't anything really worth taking a picture of.

It is very solid in there. Grabbing it and shaking it moves the whole truck.






Also, the new radiator came as well.




Can't anything be made in the USA anymore?




Is this the thermostat everyone used? I assume so since its the stock 3.4 one. 82C translates to 180 on the internet converter that I used. Also, that little valve on the the top right. Is is true that needs to be at the top when installing?

cadman

The jiggle valve should be at the bottom.

thefallman

Dude Slide the Plastic Cover on the Steering shaft UP. This will get it out of your way. Should have enough room by 1/3 inch or something like that. I Cut the cover completely off of my steering shaft. The Cover tends to slide down if left.

dntsdad

I have slid it into every postion I could. A few clicks up, all the way up as far as it would go and everywhere in between. I thought about taking it off as well. Nothing gives me enough room. I'll reevaluate when the new bracket comes in when I can crank on the belt. I ordered it this morning so hopefully a few days.

yodathespian87

Build looks like its going well. My steering sleeve has about a 1/4-1/2 of an inch in between it and the altenator. I'm running all 3.4 accessories, in a 93 4Runner. I haven't been working on mine due to extremely cold weather, but I can take pics of anything that you need.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I have always installed the jiggle valve on top. Up top to help burping. I've always been told it goes up.

cadman

I think everyone is looking at the FSM upside down

dntsdad

Got the power steering lines all ran yesterday. I used half the 3.4 line form the pump and half the line from the 3.0 from the steering box and then welded them together using a piece of round stock as a coupler like a giant electrical butt connector. Burned through a few tries before I got it right. As I have said, I am not a welder

Installed the starter and started to attach the starter harness.




Currently the starter wire runs through the harness over to the starter relay which was on the driver inner fender in the Runner. However, its on the passenger fender now so I took all this apart and removed the starter wire from the harness and dumped it out the side before it entered the plastic for easy routing up to the starter relay.




Sealed everything up with fusing tape. By the way, I purchased my fusing tape from Lowes, but then saw a larger roll at Home Depot the other day for only a few bucks more. This stuff works awesome! Because of the season, I usually hang it in front of my propane garage heater to help it stretch and get sticky. Same thing with any electrical tape. I prefer 3M products to anything and I have used 1000's of rolls of electrical tape and have yet to use any better than 3m.






I got the ac lines on but the one from the firewall is really tight so I will have the address that later. Installed the fuse panel back the firewall. I was able to use its stock location and bunch of other little things like connecting all the transmission electrical harness, installing the starter, routing some wires, etc.

I am not sure what to do with all this mess though.




I cant remember how all this hooks up. I know the bottom harness is the alternator but the top in the circle is what I am unclear on.

Should I:
a) not use any of it
b) ground all these
C) cut off that gray plug and just ground that wire

Any help on this would be great. thanks

dntsdad

My Battery box arrived and it is pretty slick. Skulls aside this thing is very well designed and fabricated. The tabs on the side are suppose to be receptacles for the Optima 34/78 battery rather than just have it sit in there. That should provide even more support and stability for the battery when installed. I plan to pick up a battery today so we'll see how it goes. Purchased here from Ballistic Fabrication. For $40 you cant beat it.





Since I remove the rear load positioning sensor and the ABS, I needed a proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I purchased this Wilwood unit from Summit and installed it yesterday. I wanted it in the motor compartment so I wouldn't have to worry about damaging it or it hitting something on a trail. I had to just bend a piece of 2' metal to make a quick bracket. Bending the piece from the master to the valve was a real pain, but it all worked out well I think.






I decided to move the coolant overflow bottle as well to allow a bit more room for the battery install. The box is large and since the battery "slides" onto those tabs I do not want to have to install the battery and box as a unit. Much like the door on the airbox the clearance of the fender for vertical movement cause some issues so moving the coolant tank allows me to have a bit more room so the battery will drop in rather than have to drop in and then slide over.

First I drilled a new hole in the core support and remove the bracket from the bottle and welded a nut on the back. You could use a simple nut and bolt configuration but it would be difficult to hold the nut on the bottom so I elected to tack it on since I have my buddy's welder sitting here. Also needed to add about 4-5 washers so it would clear the slight lip on the core support and so it would sit flat.





All done.




The stock hose out of the tank is only the small pigtail about 3" long. this allows coolant to just flow everywhere and we noticed a lot of rust buildup and the body bolt that we removed was severely rusted under the tank. Since I now have a ton of hard lines laying around, because I have been robbing them from the Runner, I bent a new line to run down and out the bottom of the vehicle so that the coolant will not come in contact with the vehicle anymore. I slid some rubber hose over it just to help with rattle and protection.

I also had to make a bracket on the bottom to support the tank and not allow it just to shake around. I didn't have the right hole saw size, nor a drill bit nearly large enough so a scraped a piece of metal from the Runners core support that was the exact right size. I didn't take a picture but its a simple L bracket with a large hole on top for rubber bushing on the bottom tab of the tank to slide into.

The relays are for the headlight harness I made a while back. I relocated those from the other side as well to keep them as close to the battery as possible, not that its necessary but keeping everything in the same area is what I was looking for.








Also, I finally attempted to slide the downpipe in tonight to see what kind of issues I am going to have and I was stunned when it simply slid right in place!! Bolting it together is going to be an issue as there is no way to get a socket on one of the bolts. When I was under it, I remembered someone (Cadman i think) saying to drill out the threads on the the crossover and use nuts and bolts. I forgot to drill out those threads and there is no way to get a drill in there now so i will just use some smaller diameter bolts to pull it together.

I need to start the wiring but i am getting pretty close to seeing if this thing is going to start.

Anyone have a thought on my last post as to what to do with those wires on the alternator harness?? I have been searching but I have not seen anything. Maybe I missed it somewhere.

agusgus3

I figured this out the hard way. I got my motor from an auto, used my 3.0 R150F 5speed, flywheel, clutch and Throw out bearing. I did use the 3.4 pilot bearing for the crank. This should be all you need, everything bolts up from my experience, but be sure to not shear a bolt when your putting the clutch in or you will do this

dntsdad

LOL. Things have changed since that post. I am now going to run the auto fora variety of reasons. California smog laws mostly but some others as well.

Thanks for the reply though and welcome!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

for the alt harness you're talking about, the black chip box looking dealy i bolted to the fender. And the round connector i grounded to the intake manifold on the engine.

dntsdad

Thanks Vital!!!!

dntsdad

For those of you that have the auto from your newer donor, what ATF are you using?

I prefer Mobil1 products but I have read that Mobil1 in the Toyota transmissions is not good.

cadman

I'm using Pennzoil ATF. I'll also be watching what everyone else uses too.

dntsdad

Did you guys hear that? Yup...... that was my 3.4 starting up!!!!

Went out and wired all the critical wires and decided to turn the key and see what happened and it started in about 2 seconds and seemed to run perfectly....just hummed! I shut it down after a few seconds since there is no coolant, alternator belt just is hangin there, etc. Had my son fill it up with Mobil1 and a Mobil1 filter just today. Good thing he did!!!

Sounded pretty dang good with just the cat on there actually. Right now there is no muffler at on it. We cut the pipe about 15" after the last O2 sensor when taking it out of the runner and installed it back the same way.

Cadman you know if the ref will require a muffler at all? that would sure save me some headache installing a muffler!

I forgot that I didnt have any trans cooler lines hooked up so that pumped some fluid on the ground which sucked but I am still pretty damn happy. Waiting for orings from Toyota of Dallas to get the trans lines all hooked up. Also waiting for the alt bracket so the belt is just hanging there until then.

Tomorrow night I will get the gauge area wired as i am trying to use the 3.4 information into the 3.0 dash such as the AT Temp light, ECT switch indicator, have the 4x4 light work, etc. Since this is a 5speed truck, it had none of that but the dash has the blanks for it. Still need to get the shift lock circuit wired but hopefully all that will be straight-forward.

Damn I am HAPPY!!

dntsdad

Vital

Can you explain or point me to something to wire the AC so it will work while I am in there?

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!