Mine started as a 5 speed, and the 3.4 is out of an auto.

 

Got a lot done today, and in only 4 hours...

exhaust, unbolted
power steering, unbolted
driveshaft, removed
dipstick guide, painted, installed
timing belt cover, painted, installed
new/used electric fan picked up

Funny story about the fan, went to Pull-a-part to look, and wasn't hoping too much, most of the stuff that's left on a car has been trashed by somebody else. They let me in for free because I was wearing a fire dept. shirt (I'm an EMT), then I go to the first of 5 Villager/Quest on the lot looking for the fan. The first one, not only had the fan, but it was already unbolted and sitting on the top of the engine ready to be picked up. Someone had taken the radiator, and didn't trash the thing. Just made my day.

PICS

dipstick guide and belt cover painted and installed






I had also taken some time to sand and paint my headlight bezels and trim around the side markers...





Before I had parked it, I re-routed my antenna to the rear. I have one of those cheap black rubber one, and I hated the way it leans off of the fender. So I just bought an extension, and drilled a hole in the back to mount it. First time I have ever taken a drill to exterior sheet metal.





Now a few questions...

1. Can I still get the new crossover in after setting the engine in?

2. How did you get the old crossover out to get to the trns. bolts?

3. Are we having fun yet?

 

will my 3.0 clutch work in the 3.4? If so, they are practically brand new.

 

3.0 fly wheel, 3.0 clutch plate, pressure plate and throw out.
3.4 pilot

or

3.4 flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, pilot bearing
and 3.0 throw out bearing

 

3.4 is larger though and therefore more surface area. I think that its about 7/8" larger.

I would use the 3.4 if it was me but i understand having all the new 3.0 stuff and wanting to save the cash.

Match the starter though.

 

Sweet. That definately saves some cass

 

Almost forgot. If you use 3.0 fly wheel you need 3.0 starter.

If 3.4 flywheel then you need 3.4 starter.

 

That should work, my 3.0 starter is less than a year old too.

 

but I will be hanging on to the 3.4 starter for the next clutch replacement.

 

And the time is near. Tomorrow morning I will start the actual swap and put the 3.4 into the Runner. Been a long time getting to this point.

 

IT'S IN. A one day pick and drop. Didn't really get started on it till about 11:00, and only had one minor set back. (Note to self, do not over tighten clutch bolts, they will break!). Now I have 5 days of work before I can get back to it to start the punch list of little things. Pics would have happened, but I am too tire.

 

way to go

we are all rooting for ya. Rest up.

 

Gotta question, did any of you guys run into the problem of the adjustment arm for the alternator being so long it interfers with the steering shaft? If so, what did you do to fix it? Also, which power steering pump do you use?

 

Check out my 3.4 threat in my sig. Lots of info u may be able to use. Many a thread on the 3.4 swap and u got lots of questions so take some time to read on what others have had success and issues with. Never hurts to ask questions and read up on what others have done. Good luck you'll love it if you don't run into many electrical bug issues as I did. research even more into it and again you'll love it

 

I ended using a steering extension from a body lift and cutting the shaft up towards the column to make up the space taken up by the extension. This lifted the scarf joint away from the alternator and I have lots of adjustability now.

Detail and pics in my thread. Dont know what page. Link is in my signature.

Jason

 

Dntsdad, I was rereading through your swap, and came across your battery box. I am ordering mine in the morning. Then it's off to put in the starter and start on the wiring. Any suggestions before hand?

 

Well, my plans to work on it today have been washed away. May still try to do some wiring inside the cab.

Why do I need to swap the oil sending units?

 

Personally, I would run the large, heavy gauge wire (I used 4 ga) From the battery to the starter and then for the trigger, run my own into the kick panel. In the kick panel there will be a large black-white wire. Join those two together ALONG with the wire that is labeled STA from the ECM.
The 3.4 uses a oil switch, on/off, you need the pressure sender to run your factory gauge. Take the one from your 3.0, or get one, and replace the switch. Its down by the oil filter

 

Where did you get your replacement brake line, and how did you order it?

 

A local company Western Speed and Fuel in Fresno, ca.

I am not sure if they ship or not.

Some of the online Honda, Mitsu, etc. rice burner car places should have them. You need 10mm fittings for both the slave and master.