3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

Time for a regear suggestions please

Old 06-27-2011, 12:27 AM
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Time for a regear suggestions please

Hey figured I would just start my own thread. I just blew up the ring and pinion while being stupid in my 4runner. It has a rear elocker and I did a 3.4 swap and its a 5 speed. I am running 33" tires and mainly run on the street with a lot of trailer pulling and occasional wheeling. I just had 4.10's stock and I figured that this would be the perfect time to regear. The 4.10's are great for 20-22 mpg on the freeway if I am babyfooting it but pulling the work trailer I pretty much keep it in 4th on the freeway and full at a bit under 8000 pounds with the trailer tools and the 4runner It goes down to 10-14 mpg average. Gosh I love having a scangauge 2 that tells me all this corrected data. It would also be nice to have lower gears for off road but unfortunately most the driving I do is on the street. So who has experience with what gears, tire size, transmission, and of coarse 3.4 swap? I am thinking either 4.56 or 4.88. Calculators seam to say that 4.88 would put me back to about stock but I don't know if I believe them with how my old pickup was with 4.56's and 31's with a 5 speed and 3.0.
Oh and also I have a brand new 0 mile trd supercharger that I might throw on when I buy fuel upgrades but not completely sure on that yet.
Thanks for the help

Jordan

Here it is all broke with the suspension all compressed on the trailer.
Old 06-27-2011, 04:38 AM
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20-22 mpg with 4.10s and 33s? Why change!?

:wabbit2:
Old 06-27-2011, 05:11 AM
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Want to sell the TRD.
Old 06-27-2011, 05:46 AM
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maybe goto 4.30s or 4.56s at most...
Old 06-27-2011, 05:58 AM
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I think that I would at least try the 4.56 first and see if I liked them. Reason is, 4.56 is a stock gear configuration so you are likely to be able but a set of used 3rds from someone that has regeared and SAS'ed. This would save for setup kits, install etc.

I have seen matched sets in the classifieds occasionally.

Depending on your rush, I'll be selling the 4.56 set in my 92 when I SAS later this summer because I am replacing them with a set of Elockers.
Old 06-27-2011, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
20-22 mpg with 4.10s and 33s? Why change!?

:wabbit2:
I don't think it will get too much worse with 4.56's especially with how I drive. I've only done a few trips where I have been able to keep my foot out of it long enough to get 20 plus mpg. The engine really likes to cruise at 75 or so and with the 60 mph speed limits here I figure might as well reduce that down a bit. The 3.4 is just too fun. I hit 88 in third gear before I hit the rev limiter. And when towing the trailer it feels like the gears are spaced too wide. The 3.4 has a sweet spot where it makes really good power and to accelerate quickly with the trailer it falls a bit to low out of it.

Originally Posted by Trebor
Want to sell the TRD.
Nope. At least not yet. For now the plan is to regear it. I thought about changing out my axle to a non modified one so that i could use cheaper open 3rd members that I could just buy used but I figured I might as well do it right and pay the price. Anybody locally good at gear setups for a reasonable price? Preferably with knowledge with the elocker. I called up randy's ring and pinion and they tried to tell me that there were no aftermarket gears made for the elocker.

Originally Posted by dntsdad
I think that I would at least try the 4.56 first and see if I liked them. Reason is, 4.56 is a stock gear configuration so you are likely to be able but a set of used 3rds from someone that has regeared and SAS'ed. This would save for setup kits, install etc.

I have seen matched sets in the classifieds occasionally.

Depending on your rush, I'll be selling the 4.56 set in my 92 when I SAS later this summer because I am replacing them with a set of Elockers.
I thought about the 4.30 cause thats the closest I could get stock in an elocker but that just didn't seam far off enough and I don't really want to buy another elocker. I modified my axle to accept the elocker so I don't really want to try to throw a non elocked 3rd in it. I can't remember how much I cut away it might still seal but I did weld shut a few of the stud holes. I am going to throw my 33's onto my old pickup that I sold to a friend with 4.56 for a second to see how I like it. And one of the main reasons why I want to keep it 4.56 or 4.88 is that those are both stock gear configurations that came front and rear. I'm planning on keeping IFS at least for now and there is a 4.88 front for sale close to me and there are both for sale online too.

Last edited by baja_beetle; 06-27-2011 at 08:59 AM.
Old 06-27-2011, 12:35 PM
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4.56 came in an Elocker. the part number is - 4.56 ratio (#41110-3D010)

Pricey but an option. Probably impossible to find a used one.
Old 06-27-2011, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dntsdad
4.56 came in an Elocker. the part number is - 4.56 ratio (#41110-3D010)

Pricey but an option. Probably impossible to find a used one.
Wow never seen a used factory elocker 4.56. I think I saw some new ones for like $700-$1000 but that was a while ago. I think that it would probably cost less to regear my elocker than to try to find such a rare factory option diff.
Old 06-30-2011, 06:41 PM
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Well I took my 3rd out today. What do you guys think of the damage?




Old 07-01-2011, 08:04 AM
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When I got my e-locker it was the 4.56 model. It came off a 98 taco. So I know they are out there.
*Edit -I had gotten it from a local junkyard for 450 with the wiring pigtails and the diff lock switch from the cab.

Last edited by hamish_18; 07-01-2011 at 08:07 AM.
Old 07-01-2011, 12:16 PM
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Yeah there is one 4.56 e locker for sale on craigslist. Kinda far away and the guy didn't sound like he was going to ship but 500 for the drum to drum axle. I wish I could just buy a good 4.56 e-locker third. Seams like the going rate is cheaper than the cost of buying new gears master install kit and the install.
Old 07-01-2011, 03:01 PM
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so how did that happen anyways...
Old 07-01-2011, 03:18 PM
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I was messing around on the street haha. Guess it couldn't handle about 7000 pounds with the trailer truck and tools in low range 2wd dumping the clutch. Haha. 1st and second gears spun the tires before it hooked up but 3rd gear grabbed hard enough that my coworker said my front wheels came off the ground then bang grind clank. Well I found the limit of the stock 4.10's messing around way harder on the truck than I should have been. This was a stock from the factory 4.10 e-locker rear with 140,000 miles on it.
Heres what Zuk said he saw in my pictures though.
"If what I see is true and that's what looks like swirl marks on the case means that the pinion was way loose and that's what started the tooth breakage. If the pinion had been tight then the gears probably would have been just fine with the strains you put on them."
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