Its most likely something really simple pimple. If the rig was running before, what changed? Are all the fuses good? Ecu sends out switched ground independantly to all the injectors. Chances of the ecu failing are really really slim. There has to be something else going on around the ecu thats not allowing it to "run"

 

I soldered 1 wire, which was the power to the park neutral safety switch. This gives power to the starter relay and STA.

Thanks for helping out Vital I appreciate it.

Navy

 

this sounds really similar to my issue, I had pressure at the rail, and fluctuating voltage at the injectors but still no fuel. It wound up being the IGSW pin on the ECU needed to see 12v. I ran an add a circuit on a 7.5a to provide it, from the ignition fuse under the drivers kick (89 runner). I saw your post saying that you wired this and already have tested it at 12v. I also had to connect the AFM power, have you tested for that? it's the pin1 i believe on the harness, the pin closest to the firewall, should have 12v with ignition on. FC on the ecu also needed to be wired up to the COR for me, and I did it through one of the body harness connectors rather than directly splicing into the COR itself. there was a wire color change at that connector as well, which confused me for a minute until i put a meter to it to check continuity. These are the tricky parts that took me a few long days to figure out..

 

I think I have all that in order, but I'll check again.

I just swapped ecm's and still nothing. The only thing these injectors share is a ground. I might make my own ground through EO1 and see if this works.

 

I got my new DVOM and ohmed out the crankshaft, camshaft, and engine coolant temperature sensor.

The ECT sensor was 1.6 k ohms which is low. On the temperature scale in the haynes repair manual 1.6 k ohms would be at 100f degress. I unplugged the connector to see if it would start with out it, but it didn't. Going to have to wait till monday to go to toyota and pick up a new one.

Now another question. Does the igniter send an input to the ecm for the injectors. If so what wire?

Thank you,

Navy

 

If you had a bad sensor or circuit that would cause a no start, I would think the ecu would throw a code for it.

At this point I would go back and check all of your power sources to the ecu and injectors. Do you have working obd2?

 

The ECT could be the cause because its not giving to much or to little resistance therefore there would be no code. If the ect is saying its to hot less fuel is put into the injectors but thats all in theory.

Ob2 is working with no codes.

I will redo all my test over with the new dvom.

Thank you,

Navy

 

WOW, you're RIGHT THERE! Just checking in, SC, .... amazing the stuff some swaps provide for in regards to 'fishing expo's'..... Good to see you doing a proper P.O.E. Vitale is one of the 'GURU's pertaining to this swap/this motor now.... Along with your digging for the gremlin and all the other 3.4'NAUTS, ... you'll have it in no time! WOOT!

Can't wait to see a Drive by Video with an RV doing a lil burn out! hehehe... Jk, but you know what I mean... Best wishes, man!

 

I'm going to check it all over again on monday with the new DVOM. The ECT was actually in an operating range. My Tacoma has a 5vz and the ECT had a resistance of 1.5k.

P.O.E.?

Thank you for the wishes. I can't give up when I had it running once. Going to do one wire at a time until I find the problem.

 

I have a dumb suggestion...checked all your wires at the ECU. Make sure none of the pins walk out. Some pins may walk out when you connect it to the ECU. It may be just enough to not make the connection.

 

Not a dumb suggestion because it gave me an idea. I'll remove all the terminals (1 connector at a time) and plug them in with out the connector. I'll try to start the truck each time.

Thank you,

Navy

 

Hey man,..... sorry........... P.O.E. ; Process Of Elimination ..... you're on it... and you'll find that NASTY lil Electrical-Gremlin in no time!

Trying to remember where I heard something about a 3.4 with Trailer kit that got all corroded/plugged up with mud that ended up shorting out something and shutting off the injectors/and they STAYED shut for some reason... "Fuel Cut" can do that? Anyway, just mention that cuz it seems SO MANY things are involved... but as you head down a good P.O.E. list.. you'll find it that much faster.

 

I don't think you need to do that....just tug at the end of each wire at the connector. If it moves out, you've found it. There might be more than one though.....

 

Ic Thank you.

I'm going to try to find out whats wrong today. If not I got to get this thing over to toyota. I work at toyota right now so maybe they'll give me a discount or something.

 

She is running again . Now I can move forward and start doing the evap stuff.

The problem was a ground wire that was missed pinned. I didn't even remember removing when soldiering the starter wire. The ground wire was EOM E14 pin 10.

I found this because I was going to finally hard wire my OB2 and see if I get any other readings. OB2 takes pin 13 and 14 in the E14 connector. The EOM wire was in pin 13. I removed and plugged in the right spot and she fired right up!

Its a humbling experience, but I wouldn't have done it without yotatech.

Stay tuned for gas tank welding and evap nonsense.

Thank you for all helping!

Navy

 

Just finished soildering everything up today. The tank has evap stuff on it now. I didn't have a camera on me during the extravaganza, but I'll snap some of the aftermath tomorrow.

I can't wait to finish this project and never have another one.

Haha

Navy

 

Way to go!

 

Hey spinyard,

Did you change your gas cap? Do you get a check engine light?

Thank you,

Navy

 

Most of the things I did on this swap was a first time for me. I didn't get the exhaust done because I just didn't have the skills or tools to do so. Same was done with the tank.

I had a buddy help me with it because he knew what he was doing.

We first attached a piece of wood to the bottom of what we were going to drill out with the hole saw. (pictures are of the aftermath)





Clean the paint off of the tank and new piece you just cut out. Use a hammer to get the smallest gap possible. Apply flux and heat up with a propane torch. Feed the soldier as soon as it melts on the metal.







I still need to do some stuff for the pressure sensor part, but I'll have before and after pictures of that at least.

 

I cut the weird shape hole for the pressure sensor. It may not be perfect, but its a tight fit.



If you look at how the pressure sensor it is mounted to the 5vz fuel pump. You have to take the pump out to get to it. I didn't use the 5vz pump, but kept the old pump. So I had to have bolts come out to the tank so I can secure the pressure sensor.





I sealed the tank around where we soldiered.



Prime:



Then paint:



I'll throw one more coat today and rinse the tank out tomorrow and mount her up.