Putting this here to get the thread started.

The Basics: 1995 4runner, 4wd SR5, 5spd manual 3vz V6.

The acquisition: I bought the vehicle at auction just like the first couple photos without knowing whether it would run or not. Grand total of $200 plus free towing a-la friend-with-a-trailer to its current spot. Chassis and (original) engine has(had) 256,000 miles on the odo and it was parked at a sea-side impound lot. Needless to say, we're dealing with some corrosion issues, but I think that not all is lost. Hooked up a battery (129 die hard gold) and swapped out the starter ($95 aisin remanufactured) and alternator ($136 carquest 80 amp remanufactured) (corrosion made me doubt the old alt). Truck started right up without a hiccup. Accessory belts squealed to high heaven, so I let them run a bit to knock off the rust, then swapped all three out. For roughly $575 I had a running 4wd that went into all 6 gears and engaged 4wd properly. Pretty dandy if you ask me, but the fun didn't stop there.

I got on here to do my research (naturally) and the 3.slow rumors started to get me worried I might have future head gasket problems. the 3.4 swap sounded appealing, but I've never done an engine swap before. Casually cruising FB Marketplace, I came across a (no !#$%) $100 complete 1997 3.4L 5VZ. 238,000 miles on its ODO. Included starter, alt,(supposedly) working a/c compressor, power steering pump, engine mounts, fan, engine harness and ECU (later found out were from a 2001 automatic 4wd. Major head ache for the swap. We'll get there.)

Bought the engine, naturally before I had a hoist or an engine stand for the rebuild.

Shocks top mount hardware was all rusted out, so bought replacement Bilstein 4600s. (wish I had gone with the beefier 5100s in hind sight.)

Picked up an air box, MAF sensor, emissions equipment, 02 sensors, and a manual ECU at a local 3rd gen part-out I found on FB Marketplace. totaled $60. These are not realistic costs normally, but I packaged them all for a steal.

Stainless BYO Exhaust kit (2.5"), DNJ Engine rebuild kit (wasn't going to just throw the 238k unknown history engine into it without tearing it apart first to know what I was working with. It was only $100 for pete's sake.), Magnaflow muffler, and Flowmaster cat for the good sounds and efficient flow.

Realized the crosstube was from a 2001 also (not the kind that's easy to convert to a driver side downpipe) so bought the toyonlyswap version for $300. Seems like it's in excellent shape so far. Am I insane for buying all these parts for a truck that only cost me $200 to begin with?





Slightly dented fender panel. Whole thing is covered in Berliner

 

Hell no you're not crazy. Awesome I say.

Sort of looks like Dropzones rolled on bedliner paint job special.

 

Ok so I have some dumb questions, hoping you all can help me out.

I didn’t get a chance to witness this engine (5vz) be pulled from its 97 host. From where does the brake booster draw vacuum?

On the back of the intake tube there’s a hole that seems like it might’ve housed a secondary vent line or something. Is that important? Can I plug it for the sake of having a smooth running vehicle?

On the 5vz battery harness, which is pos and which is neg? I have one side that is set to connect to the battery post and another that’s a flat copper connector.
EDIT: got this answer with a quick peek at another swap thread where the positive red cover hadn’t been removed yet. 😎

Guidance for an evap delete? Not as concerned about codes or emissions. The ECU is from across the world in Saudi Arabia and anyway, her home will be Florida soon.

Pics to follow the questions as soon as it’s light outside.

 

It’s a rainy day, so I took the opportunity to remove the tach for the tach mod. Anyone know if I did this right? Looks to me like the ones from the tach mod thread.

Also there’s a resistor on the reverse side of where this resistor is soldered in. I assume this mod reduces the resistance relative to the old one on the reverse side? I didn’t remove it. Should I have?

 

Here's two pics from a 99. The pic of the plenum; that's the brake vacuum on the 3rd runner between mount bracket and Diags connector.

Not sure which other tube you refer to, so second pic is most of stuff on backside.

 

You’re the best. Now having other issues. I read through the COR post in the 101 thread and still seem to be having problems. Based on the 101 thread, I swapped to a 3rd gen COR using his guidance. Turning the key on however I’m still not getting any sort of sound that would indicate a running fuel pump.

I’ll check wiring continuity first, but my second step is double checking wiring diagrams to make sure I have proper wiring harness setup. My ECU came out of a 99 Toyota Prado. Any idea if I can get that EWD from Toyota here in the states? Anyone have any experience with them?

 

Yes. Now I can't find the site.
But its like $20 for 24 hr access All-you-can-download. Its what I did. Then back it up to USB stick. So you don't loose it when your pc crashes.
Ask me how I know.

Want to stay TIS or something. Some smart folks will probably chime in here soon.

 

TIS, Tech Info System. Best $20 spent while doing my 1UZ swap!
techinfo.toyota.com

 

Second time spending the $20 searching for info on the Prado, with no luck. ECU is definitely from a 99 Prado but I can’t find the EWD for it so I can’t determine differences in pin out from the 99 4Runner. I suppose I’ll have to try the dealership to order one.

Just frustrated. I’m getting a start signal (it turns over) from ignition which I think means that pin from the ECU is correct right? Just no sound from the fuel pump (already verified wiring continuity, fuel pump function and that pin position is correct for 99 5vz m/t ECU) and I haven’t been able to tell if the signal to ignition is working because they’re both used parts. Is there an easy way to test signal to the coil packs?

With all these pieces coming off donors, I figured I’d run into snags but I never thought about how challenging troubleshooting is turning out to be.

 

I didn't catch that your ECU was not USDM, sorry.

Yea, piecing together a swap is always tough, and when you've got parts from other markets, it can be a nightmare.

Maybe some searching can find a forum and/or facebook group from a market where the Prado is offered. The information has to be out there.

 

Update: sourced an EWD for the 99 Prado ECU from Germany. Brand new, just very hard to get a hold of. Fingers crossed I didn’t fry this ECU with the wrong configuration. They’re pretty stout pieces of equipment right? Tackling the rewiring today. I’ll keep you all in the loop!