Ranscat3

Block was bored .020 over. They still have it resurfacing the heads. The rebuild kit was ordered yesterday. I dowlnoaded the EWD's finally, and dove into the wiring yesterday. Just prepped for the starter and STA as well as FC, I decided to reuse the 3.0 COR.

We finished the body lift, modded and reinstalled the TAC, and fabbed up a battery bracket. Pictures to come.


Looks like a future battery tray to me! I used a wall locker shelf form the scrap pile at work. Traced the battery tray, added some sides: cut, hammer, weld and install to frame. Careful not to catch the fender plastic on fire. I did that on my truck a few years ago...


That'll do

Here's some photos of the tach mod


Carefully release the tabs holding the clear plastic cover on


Remove the 3 screws holding the tach on


Tach lifts out


Use those resistors


Solder like so, and walah!

bend

iTrader: (1)

How do you plan on accommodating for the 2002's throttle by wire?

Ranscat3

Uh.... I didn't think about that at all... any ideas? At all possible to get around with the motor we plan on using? I really don't want to re-pin it to one of my extra/older computers! Just by looking at the wiring, because that's all I have left from the donor, what wires do I need to look for to determine this truck was drive by wire? I've been reading some have it and some don't or that some that do work fine without all that stuff. I thought the throttle body looked identical to mine and that I remember disconnecting a standard looking throttle cable when we took off the intake to get the wires.

I did run the wires for the rear 02 through the cab tonight however, and start on the new, probably soon to be really changed, wiring diagram.

bend

iTrader: (1)

Do you know what year and model your engine came out of? There are some signs that would tell you. Whether or not the dipstick hole is plugged or not would be one.
I found the following. Sounds like you should just be able to look at it and tell. Ill keep looking.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51528995

SacRunner

Stupid question, 100K or 10K resistors? Everything I've read said to use a 10K (at least as far as I remember), but you're clearly using 100K.

bend

iTrader: (1)

another good read https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51670154

Ranscat3

I'll double check my resistor, and swap out that photo if I goofed up on that. No biggey, a quick fix. I've been running my swap for almost 3 years with one of those resistors in there and it appears to be reading correctly. However...

I would really like to get a live feed OBD2 scanner, but don't know which one to get. I'd like to keep it under a grand. I'm a Macintosh user to interfacing with a laptop is a little difficult. Any suggestions?

Anyway, I spent some time on TIS, and compared my 02 Tundra EWD's to a 02 4Runner. There is no drive by wire on what we have. The VSC wires aren't on the computer, in my harness, or in my wiring diagrams. So I feel much better about that! We got lucky I guess. I've almost completed the wiring diagram and can say for sure none of the VSC wires are present.

Ranscat3

I'll pick up some 10k ohm resistors on my way home today... red band, not orange!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

just fyi, you can use the 10k 1/2 watt or 10k 1/4 watt

bend

iTrader: (1)

Granted I dont know much about OBDII scanners but I got one that hooks up to my computer for 30 bucks. It has live feed. The data is kind of limited but I'm sure you can find decent software for a reasonable price. Again, I really have no idea what I'm talking about when it comes to OBDII scanners so if I just said some common knowledge, forgive me.

Ranscat3

I got two 10k 1/2 watt resistors on my way home yesterday. I got lucky when I stopped at the CB shop for some gear and the guy had a bunch of them with his repair stuff. Sweet, one less stop to make on my way home. I got 2 because I'm going to put the proper one in my 4Runner too. I'll probably do mine and see how it changes things and if it happens to not noticeably change the tach readings then we'll (plan, unless ya'll say otherwise for good reason) leave Jeremy's alone with the 100k.

I stared at diagrams and wires for a couple hours and finally started making progress on moving things over from 3.0 body plugs to 3.4. I felt like I just had to stare long enough until it made sense again. My diagram didn't really help me out much. I found it best for me if I looked them up on the laptop sitting in the truck one by one and then just documented my changes on the spreadsheet. The spreadsheet confused me, I thought it would help but I guess I don't work that way. I prefer writing two lists and drawing lines to connect the functions/colors.

ultimase

You know I actually found the same thing true as well. I think I made 3 or 4 spreadsheets, but I started making some real progress when I just sat down and went through one wire at a time.

Ranscat3

I've been working on the wiring. By next Thursday I will have worked 11 days straight, then have a 3 day weekend off to hopefully finish the swap with. Needless to say, finding more than a couple hours a day has been tough. Needs of the Corps. S/F

I should have the engine and dash harness finished tonight. About 10 wires to go! Things left to do that I can remember right now:

-Wire Harness
-Transfer over 4x4 wires from extra harness
-Run wires for evap stuff to engine bay and place sensors
-Extend power wire to fuse box
-Hook up cruise control on passenger side, get/make extended cable if necessary
-Re-pin rear 02 sensor
-Remove 3.0 oil pressure sender and reinstall in 3.4
-Tach mod
-Extend shifters
-Receive pistons and get them to machine shop for final honing.
-Assemble motor (don't forget to include harness), measure valves, order bucket shims if needed
-Drop in motor, plug in harness, hook up evap lines, intake and throttle cable, put on belts install radiator and add fluids, then start it up.
-Transport to shop and get exhaust done.

When I put it down like that, there's not much left to do! Piece-o-cake. It probably doesn't seem bad because I'm not the one funding it.

Ranscat3

I scored a servo style cruise control cable at the junk yard yesterday, so that'll save time relocating, wiring, and fabbing the cruise control business. All wires are mapped out and mostly connected.

One question I'm having trouble answering even with Google's help. Where does MREL go? I'm thinking de-pin and leave empty?

Ranscat3

We're getting so close! The motor is going back together. We got the heads back happy to try to get it to the exhaust shop last weekend and discovered one of the cams had spun and the head was no good. Man... we sure goofed up there. The machine shop too I'd say. It was dirty and dark out when we disassembled and took it in but I think they should of called us to make sure we wanted to resurface a unserviceable head. Anyway, we pulled another drivers side head at a local yard for $100 and took it in Saturday so it could be resurfaced Monday. It's ready to be picked up now. I just have to have them fit the new gudgeon pins to the new needle sleeve bearings and it's zoom zoom time!

I got the shift levers extended, power wire added, accessory wires moved, wiring done in the cab, well... except for the OBDII port, I'll do that tonight, and oxygen sensor plug situation taken care of. I have evap, 4x4 and starter to hook up in the bay, cruise to finish modifying (this'll be sweet if it works!), a motor to assemble and install and exhaust to have done.

Goal is to have it on the road, without codes, this weekend. I'm off early Thursday and have Fri, Sat, Sun off again.

wildtree94toy

any way you could post a link to your spreadsheet? im just getting set to start in on the wiring for mine, downloaded everything i could from the TIS website, and still can't find the pinouts for the body harness plugs from the 3.4 or 3.0, so i feel like i wasted my time. any help would be appreciated! pm me if its easier for ya!

Ranscat3

I can try to assemble what ended up being a few pieces of scrap paper notes into a wiring chart this weekend, or at least type out my notes and post them up here. The motor should be going in tomrrow. I'll be lapping valves tonight! After that it's just putting hoses and accessories on and hooking up some stray EVAP wires.

We are reusing ALL of the 3.0 clutch components (Input shaft bearing, clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing). A note I wanted to mention on removing the input shaft bearing. I remembered seeing this on YouTube a while back, but it's to wet a couple paper towels and pack them behind the bearing. Then, I used a bolt, hammer paper towels into the hole until the bearing is raised out. It worked perfectly.

Some progress shots from earlier in the week.


Bringing the rear O2 sensor wires up through the floor. I'm not using a shielded signal wire (because I don't have one)


Wiring in the cab. That's one of my extra harnesses, the nice one we're using is hanging over the back seat.


Test fitting the longer cruise cable


The bottom one is the original. The middle used to connect to the motor end on the servo style, and the ball connected to the throttle. The 5vz style that connects to the throttle is like the middle end. What I did was to cut the old cable to get the sleeve, then cut off the ball end of the long cable and flipped the direction it went in the rubber tube so my TB hook up is now in the end with the adjustment nuts. To re-attach the flange I put it on the cable and folded over the bare wires. The flange keeps the wires bent in half which prevents it from pulling out of the flange and enables me to hook it to the vac style cruise module. It only took a few minutes to actually do it after I figured out how I wanted to do it.


Installing the shift extensions. I recommend using a dremel or something to mark lines BEFORE cutting them in half. Make a line down the center of the extension and then line up the marks so they retain the factory angels as much as possible. The 4x4 lever adhesive will probably melt and catch fire as you're welding. Just blow it out and re-glue it with gorilla glue or something when it's all back together.




After cleaning with the wire wheel next to a dirty one.


Genius idea right there...


Room #2 for head assembly. My wife is ready to have this stuff out of the house. I said I could have done it outside but then she'd of complained about me spending too much time outside... seems legit


Broke one ring compressor from Oreilly's that was new on the 5th piston, the Harbor Freight replacement is much better. One day turnaround on the rods and cylinder head.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

SORRY but that wiring looks like a complete mess under the hood. Was the factory engine harness toast or something?

bend

iTrader: (1)

Isnt the input shaft bearing supposed to be from a 3.4 not a 3.0?

Ranscat3

That wiring mess is in my truck. Jeremy's will be pretty. It was a auto to manual different years harness nightmare to start with. I have 2 harnesses in there on top of each other right now while I chase a gremlin.

The ISB isn't installed yet. I read so much back and forth info when I did mine about which parts to use from what I ended up using all 3.0 parts and it's been working fine for thousands of miles. Nothing is stopping me from going to Toyota tomorrow and getting a 3.4 variant however. I may be remembering incorrectly on my own.