Ranscat3

I'm starting this thread so the two of us can follow the build, keep track of $, make sure we get all the parts we need ordered, and so ya'll can follow along. They're different every time!

Some background. I saw a friend's post on Facebook about his truck only running on 5 cylinders and how it was gonna cost something like 3k to fix it or 6k for a reman and him talking about trading the truck in. I have a 3.4 sitting in my back yard not being properly appreciated, and I mentioned we could swap it in there. He thought on it one night, did some reading on YT, and called to say lets swap it the next day.

So this is a speedy budget build (Aren't they always?) of a DD that sees occasional wheeling. The replacement engine is high miles, I'd never planned on running it, but it'll work.

Here's a sort of to buy/do list

*Block to be bored at Gosney's in Auburn, WA $25 a hole, $150 for the entire block, and $50 for cleaning, plus tax. -$200
*Head's resurfaced, $84.50 +tax for the pair. They estimate a week to get it all done.
*LCEngineering Master Rebuild Kit - $774.95
*Head bolts from LCE - $31.95
*ECM and Harness from a 2002 4x2 MT Tundra $200
*Clutch is new, reusing ALL 3.0 parts.
*Reusing 3.0 A/C
*3.4 P/S Pump $55.00
*Reusing 3.0 alternator (as of right now we are, we'll need a 3.4 alt plug to pin into the 3.0 alt harness if we use the 3.4)
*Air box $40
*MAF $?60
*OBD2 reader plug from junkyard
*Crossover fabrication (just had mine re-done by Stan's headers in Auburn for $425) We'll trailer it to the shop, and drive it away if we're lucky!
* 4 wire oxygen sensors $90/$120
*2" body lift. Not cutting hood$?150
*Plug wires (BLUE NGK) $?45
*Denso Plugs $?30
*Coil Packs $30
*Body wiring harness/plug (have somewhere)
*Fab battery bracket
*Tac Mod (I have resistors from when I did mine)
*EWD's from TIS $15
*TPS/IAT/VSV/VPS/Igniter $FREE
*Set of Injectors $FREE
*Airaid JR Kit - $163

Estimated total Cost: $2,514.40

I think that should get us started. I'll be scrambling to finally finish my axle tonight so J's Yota can take its spot in the driveway on Tuesday. Hopefully we can get the motor stripped tonight and parts into the machine shop tomorrow. We'll try to pull the 3.0 and start the body lift tomorrow while we work on sourcing parts.

We'll just be working evenings during the week and hit it hard on the weekend(s). If anyone wants to come to Auburn any days 5-8ish this next week or this weekend and lend a hand or even donate parts from your piles of spares, it would be really helpful!

All constructive thoughts, suggestions and ideas are welcome.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

why the 3.4 motor mounts?? I've only used the 3.0 brakets and pads. I'm working on one into a 4 cyl runner right now.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you'll need 3.4 PS pump, and I dunno why you need the 3.4 mounts either. You've got a pretty cool rig yourself. Sub'd

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

The 3.0 alternator has different pulley on it. You gonna have to swap it to the 3.4 kind. Toyota plug wires are the ones to go with.
I hope your master rebuilt it comes with timing belts, tensioner and the two bearings...and water pump too.

ultimase

I didn't find that I needed to swap the pulley on the 3.0 alternator? Swap was into a 1991 4runner from a 98 T100.

And you might not need to rewire the alternator. See: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...ppable-251374/

Although at least one member here is having some charging problems going this route. I will try to confirm if I see charging voltage at the battery.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

hmmm my 3.0 was a v-belt. You're saying yours was a serpentine setup?

ultimase

I'm not 100% sure but I do know I did not have to swap any pulleys for the alternator. Might be a T100 thing though...

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I take it all back, my 3.0 was a serpentine too. I was thinking about the A/C compressor pulleys I reckon.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

The 3.0 alts should all be serpentine belt. It was the magnetic clutch assembly that you'd swap over from the 3.4 to run the serpentine belt. There were some 3.4 alternators that had the round plug... or was it some later 3.0 alts had the oval plug... hrmm.. don't recal for sure.

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

my bad. I think I was thinking of the 4 clyn. ones. My 96 T00 swap used the same plugs as my 95.

Ranscat3

Right on the 3.0 mounts, not 3.4. I don't know why I was stressing over it. I did my swap a couple years ago. I'm a little foggy, but it's coming back fast that's for sure! So we're all good on mounts. We started tearing apart the 3.4 day-before-yesterday. I was happy to see a milkshake in the bottom of the oil pan, rather than a spun bearing or thrown rod.

Jeremy dropped off his truck yesterday. We both worked late so all I accomplished was getting the block further stripped down, the truck hasn’t been touched yet. It’s leaking coolant from the front also. I haven’t looked at it yet but he says it’s from the water pump area and it’s been getting hot. I also forgot I’ll have to fab up a crank bolt/pulley removal tool. I’ll try to do that tonight at least.

Ranscat3

I stripped down the motor last night, so today the heads and block can get to the machine shop.


Genuine Toyota crank pulley removal tool. Made from a scrap piece of 4 link and some extra IM bolts.


Nasty passenger side. HG failed just above the manifold on #5.


Mallet and 12mm deep socket for removing the keepers.




A bed full of motor.

Have been looking for a COMPLETE rebuild kit. It looks like LCEngineering has the best one. Any others I found didn't include a water pump. LCE's is $774.95. They said the kit does include injector o-rings, but no head bolts. They have a set for $31.95 more.

Tonight I'll make a point to disconnect at least one hose from the 3.0 bay so I can say it's begun.

Ranscat3

We got some stuff done yesterday. I dropped off the block and heads at Gosney's. I derouted the wiring harness from the cab and transmission and prepped for the COR wiring while Jeremy started taking stuff out of the engine bay. Drained fluids then started pulling vacuum hoses.



A few more things to go and we can pull the motor. Airaid JR kit was ordered, so we'll just need the airbox and MAF. I might have to finally get one too before this project is over!

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

This is a huge job. I got lucky when I found the 96T100 engine with only 67K on it.

Ranscat3

Well, we had a very productive Saturday at I-5 Auto & Truck in Chehalis, WA. It was a 90 minute drive. We got there at about 11 and left at 330. We pilfered 3 4Runners for sensors and components, and scored a MT 4x2 (it'll work in a 4x4) ECM and complete harness out of a 2002 Tundra.



What we got and paid for it:
Harness and ECM - $200
IAT - N/C
TPS - N/C
Set of Injectors - N/C
Set of Coil Packs - $25
Air box and MAF - $40
Igniter - N/C
Broken off cam gear (for the pin), we found it like that! - N/C
3.4 Alt Plug - N/C
All 3 VSV/VPS sensors - N/C
Cruise Control - $25
Dash Clock - N/C
ADD switches - NC
And for my project, Rear sway bar and eLocker harness - N/C

Out the door after tax it was $318.31. I felt like we robbed the place but we didn't steal anything! It was one of those lets hurry and get to the car before they change their mind sort of things.

I realized we grabbed the wrong MAF for the type of air box we had, but oh well, I can use it as a spare. Jeremy ordered a new and correct one one along with the oxygen sensors, now that we know what computer to match them to.

We thought we'd call it a day, but decided to finish pulling the motor instead. On Friday we disconnected the rear drive shaft, exhaust at the downpipe, 2nd cross member, motor mounts on the frame side, and the rest of the junk from the bay. It was loose and could be wiggled when lifted up. But the darn stubborn to separate transmission was still attached.


Jeremy Right, me (Tom) Left


Training to be the best assistant ever.


Can't get em apart...easily


Separated

I think I had the best luck separating them when I laid on my back and wiggled it off onto the center cross member when doing a clutch a few years ago. Trying to pry the two pieces, with all that weight torquing on the input shaft like crazy and flywheel binding on the bell housing, it just isn't pretty. We did enough wiggling and dual crow baring where it finally slipped off.

My ole' Harbor Freight lift just couldn't get it to clear so we took off the wheels and lowered it down to get it out of the bay. Victory poses commenced.


Lowered to just above the lift legs with the wheel off.



On Sunday it was raining and the wife worked late, so watching my 2yr old and wrenching in the rain was slow going. However, we managed to get the 2" BL installed under the cab. The bed was going to happen today, but it's still raining pretty good so we'll take a break and work on it tomorrow.




Half installed

I was mostly impressed with the 2" B/L kit from JC Whitney by "Performance Accessories." I used a 4Crawler 2" B/L. 4C came with bushings and hardware only, and it all fit. The JC one came with bushings and hardware, but so far the longer studs used on the cab were too long and we had to add washers. The kit also included a steering extension. It's not necessary only going 2", but we put it in and it probably makes for a stronger shaft rather than just extending the slip joints out to make the difference. It also came with 2" shift lever extension chunks, and a firewall plate to reflect the shaft's downward movement. The 4C kit didn't come with any of that stuff. It worked fine for me, all I added were shift lever extensions later, but if you're figuring price don't forget to include the extensions.


Admiring the new ride height.


There's not many things left to do, besides reassembling the motor and adjusting the valves.
-We'll have to wait for the proper shims to be ordered from Toyota.
-The machine shop is supposed to call today so we can order the proper sized pistons in the rebuild kit.
-We'll use Mt Goat's photo for the Tach Mod.
-Finish the B/L
-Source a P/S pump (found 2 locally, just have to go get them)
-Some wiring (TIS)
-Hook up cruise control. I'm thinking I'll go to the local motorcycle salvage yard and get a throttle cable that's longer and re-use all 3.0 stuff. My bad on saying we needed the 3.4 cruise stuff.
-Reusing the 3.0 canister with the help of the ORS instructions
-Battery tray and extend power wires to fuse box
-Exhaust Fab (Towed to Stan's Headers)

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Determined man working in the rain... Good progress

dntsdad

Good score at the junkyard.

I would look into getting some better looking guys working on the truck however.

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

Lookin' good. You plan to lift the bed too right?....or take it off and flat bed it?.
You can really what Toyota did with the exhaust on the 3.0. Too much saki......

Ranscat3

Complete power steering pump acquired. I finally found the other resistors from when I did my swap so I can get the tach mod done tonight. We'll be raising the bed, but I had dinner plans that night and we didn't get around to finishing. Should be hearing from the machine shop today. The guy said the heads were straight, but we'll get them resurfaced anyway. He's not sure he can save the block!!! Doh! He said the rust pitting from the coolant sitting in the cylinders is pretty deep. He's gonna try to bore .020 over, but think's it'll have to be .030. It's been raining pretty heavy here lately so we've not worked on it much these past few nights. Ya that exhaust is a nightmare. I showed Jeremy my Y setup and I think just the pleased grunts I made about it were enough to convince him he wanted one too.

wildtree94toy

good luck with the build man, i'm six weeks into mine now. had a couple snags, and never have time to work on it. i'm just down the road in oregon, c'mon down and help me out when you're done!!