Just tried to start it up for the first time. No warning lights triggered by the ECU (check engine etc.) No alternator warning light etc. All I get is the seatbelt warning, OT off and ECT power mode. No click on the starter even though the interior lights dim.

So what did I miss?

Also I still have not figured out how to connect my 340H to the 3.4 ecu. Iv'e got most of the wiring done but the solenoids do not match.

 

Ok, missed a ground to the alternator body. That lit up the battery and brake warning light along with the transmission temp warning light. Everything else still the same. I'm getting switched +12v to the ecu B+ pin. Cant check the BATT+ pin until tomorow when its lighter outside.

Does the ecu need to be screwed into the body to work? Is there a ground on the case that if disconnected stops the ecu from working?

 

Now, this is just a guess, since it's been two years since I did my swap, but I quickly went through my notes and couldn't find anything about a ground wire. From what I can see, you might not have the computer grounded through the case, but I'd have to pull my kickpanel to see what I did. I think I ran a ground wire, but I can't remember from where.

 

The BAT pin is not getting 12v. Traced back to IH1 pin 10 and no power there either. Looked for the EFI relay and it not there. As in theres no location, no connector no wires where it should be! So where could it be if its not in the relay and fuse tray under the hood? Hunt is on for the 15A EFI fuse too.

 

*BLUSH*

Ahem, IH1 and IH2 connect better if you push them all the way in.

So now I have a check engine light but it still will not start. When I turn the key to start the clock fades to nothing and the guages dim slightly. Neutral Start Switch maybe? Thats what I'm looking at now.

 

Hmm, these public shows of stupidity have to stop. The black wire from the NSS was disconnected yet I showed it as tested in my notes. Scary.

Anyway, she cranks over now but I dont have my exhausts fully fabbed so I wont start it with just the manifolds on.

 

It's Gremlins, dear.
Keep up the shows, it's always interesting to get to see someone's thought process-

without the language that often goes with.

 

Been there also--Try crossed spark plug wires----Good luck

 

Can someone edit the title of this thread to include "It was dead. Now It's alive" or something similar?

:gigantic smiley:

Actually I only let it fire for maybe a second just because there is no exhaust. Geez after 15 months, you'd think I'd be able to wait another day!

I havent done the tach mod yet. There is no responce on the tach at all, is that normal? I thought I'd read somewhere that theres came up to about 1500rpm and stayed there. Also, since reformatting this laptop I've lost the link to the How To with pics so if someone could direct me to that it would be apreciated.

Also, I'm planning on doing an excel spreadsheet with pictures of the actual connectors and their locations on the vehicle so someone can follow it as a guide later on. No guarentees on either finishing it or the accuracy yet though - I've got some driving to do!

Still begging for help with the transmission solenoids wiring. Someone has to have done this before. There are 4 solenoids on the 340H but the 3.4 ECU only shows 3 on the diagram. How are you controlling the trans?

 

I just got done doing my trans wiring. The 4th solinoid goes into the transfercase. Thefallman told me its a safety solinoid that makes it so you can't shift into 4x4 when going over 35mph. So you can just leave it disconnected but will have to remember not to shift into 4x4 over 35mph.
The other solinoids seemed straight forward.. #1, 2.. 3... etc...

 

Ok, so it starts and runs for 2 seconds then quits. I tied the green/yellow wire to the white/black terminal on the cor relay and disconnected the white/black wire. This should fix the fuel pump on when starting issue right?

Just checked, am only getting voltage when the key is in the start position.

 

Let me know how 4lo works out for you with the 340h. I used the 340h as well and cant get into 4lo with the truck running. I have to turn the truck off, put it in 4lo and then turn it on. 4hi is not a problem. just 4lo.


MAF????

 

MAF, could be, it was covered in oil.

 

It's not the maf.

 

Well, I jumpered the COR relay and got the fuel pump working but it still cuts out after 2 seconds.

Sooo close!

 

ok.. yah i'm a ways from getting it all hooked up. We are moving here in 3-4 weeks.. so i'm just trying to get enough done so the basics work and i can drive it to the new place. 4x4, A/C.. etc.. will have to be done later and we get settled at the new place.

Mine doesn't run yet either... so no one take what i posted as being for sure correct. I'm a complete newb at this and would normally never post about swapping info.. but since i just got done trying to figure out the exact same thing i thought i'd share. The Auto swap info isn't as plentiful as the manual info.

Wonder why.. you'd have to shut the truck off to get 4lo to work? thats weird.

 

While wearing out the search engine feature over the last 2 months here i ran across a post about your problem. That vehicle was doing the exact same thing. I wasn't needing any info out of that post.. so moved on.. i can't remember what the solution was.. but the guy found out what it was. Try searching... for the same problem.. i'll keep thinking of what it was....

 

https://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=6360265

There is 4 there. 3 of them specifically like yours. Read those.

Sounds like your fuel pump is shutting off after you let off the key. ?

 

I must stop jumping to conclusions! It may be the MAF afterall! I jumpered the COR and had the pump working and turned it on. This time for some reason it kept on spluttering for 20 seconds. Started again and played with the throttle ran better. Repeated several times and can keep it running all the time if I play with the throttle but it runs like crap.
Had the bright idea to disconnect the MAF and it runs so much better without it. CEL comes on as expected but it was not on when the MAF was conected.

So can the MAF be bad yet keep the check engine light off, and does this sound like the MAF to you guys?

 

Found that the plug I'd put in one of the holes in the intake pipe is missing. This is obviously a huge air leak. It also most likely means the plastic bung has been ingested by the engine. I cannot find it anywhere.