My bet is the PS pulley can be swapped (but I will just use the 3.4 PS) and the 3.4 and 3.0 alt'r look like they both use ribbed belts.
I also just swapped the pulley on the 3.0 A/C compressor (plus just now replaced the bearing. I bet the 3.4 was making racket when it ran.)

Full Disclosure: Motor not even dropped in yet, so I'm probably wrong..

 

My JDM came with both the PS pump and an alternator, so I never removed them off the 3.0.

 

Very clean build! Subscribed. Currently doing a 3.4 swap myself. That picture of the heater hose routing, did that setup end up working?

 

Thanks! Yes it ended up working perfectly. Been using it every day as the Colorado mornings get colder.

 

Perfect! I will mimic that on mine. Were you able to get the EVAP system to work without codes using that 3.0 canister? My 3.4 doner got hit hard in an accident so that Evap box was smoked!

 

I used the 3.0 canister with all the 3.4 VSV's. ORS sent me a diagram of how to run the vacuum lines, I can chase that down sometime today and post a pic for you. I am currently chasing a P0171 (bank 1 lean) code, but it is leaning toward injectors. The EVAP seems to be working fine.

 

Hell yeah that diagram would save me a lot of troubleshooting, much appreciated! I will figure out the wiring out once everything else is sorted.

For your P0171 code if you do not have the factory diagnostics procedure here it is! --> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zad...ew?usp=sharing

 

Ah very nice, thanks.

Here's the diagram I used and how it looks in the truck. I could have done a nicer job but I was at the end and I just wanted it done.

 

Looking pretty good there Moto809!

Thanks for posting up that image. I'm sort of like a farmers duck - I wake up in a new world everytime I blink my eyes.
Just noticed your fuel line:

You said: Got the fuel line hooked up today. Had Napa crimp on some JIC hydraulic fittings to the engine side and truck side instead of spending even more on a custom fuel line. Only cost $20. It looks like I need to figure out a return line still. The 3.0 did not have one.

Did you just bust loose the connection on the fuel rail, take it to NAPA for the ends, and then rotate around 90-some degress when reattaching? (Did you use new washers? They get crushed on a single use, right?) My fuel supply from the tank just has (only) the flared pipe end with the male fitting. If the 3.4 fuel line were longer, it would attach straight on. So pondering what to do.

The return I figure I'll just attach a sufficiently long hose (assuming I can find correct size) to driver side, and then loop it back around and attach to the solid fuel return pipe.

 

That's exactly what I did. I measured out how long the overall length needed to be and worked with the guy at NAPA to cut the hoses to the proper length for installing the JIC fittings.
You're "supposed" to use new crush washers, but I didn't have any on hand so the old ones got reused. So far no issues.
I did the same for my return, just a long fuel hose tied up along the firewall over to the return pipe.

 

Very nice!! This EVAP diagram and your pictures will save me hours. Clean looking solution. I also hacked up the factory heater coolant lines to match your picture and idled without a drip for an hour. If you swing by Vermont I owe you a beer.

 

Glad I could help! The only thing on the diagram I did differently was I ran the fuel pressure regulator to a vacuum source on the intake plenum. I'm not sure why they show it going to the intake pipe.
If I ever find myself in VT I'll take you up on that!

 

Yeah I found that strange as well but I hooked it up to the intake and she seems fine with it. I will probably route it to the plenum when I go through later and tackle the EVAP stuff.

 

Well I started thinking about it so I did some looking around and found this...




That box is the factory intake silencer, and before the throttle body. After reading a few other posts, it almost sounds like the FPR only uses metered air... not vacuum. I may try moving my FPR hose to the intake pipe and see what happens. I am beginning to wonder if this is where my bank 1 lean code is coming from.

 

That makes sense to me, I looked at some pictures online and I can confirm the 5vze using that intake silencer for the FPR. I just put the first 30 miles on the swap, but the only codes I am pulling are related to not having a rear 02 wired as well as various EVAP codes. Might be worth a shot.

 

I went ahead and swapped over the FPR to the intake. It still idles fine, I'll update if it drives any different or if my code goes away.

 

Fun with the new setup a couple weeks ago. No lockers yet so I had to take an alternate route.

 

Not bad! She sounds good! I am torn between a locker or Nitro Gear LSD for the rear --> https://www.nitro-gear.com/Toyota-8-...ors-tv6-30.htm

 

I have an ARB air locker sitting in a box, I just haven't made the time to install it yet. I did tons and tons of research, and reading other peoples experiences and opinions between LSDs and full blown lockers. The ability to completely unlock for highway driving is what sold me on the air locker. There weren't a lot of complaints about LSDs on the highway, but there some. There weren't ANY about air lockers. For the front I intend to install manual hubs and a lunchbox locker, so that won't be an issue for highway driving either.

 

Thanks! I do like how it ended up sounding, it was an unknown when I was building the exhaust.