Thanks. Well, I was convinced it didn't... I certainly looked! But I'll check again when I get back to the shop on Wednesday

 

Easy way to tell is to look at the driver side of the gas tank. There should be two lines coming out that run together to the front. One is the vent that goes to the charcoal canister and the other is the return.

 

I don't recall disconnecting one when I pulled the engine. Unfortunately I had to push the truck out of the shop a couple weeks ago due to the shop getting busier. I'm still waiting on my ORS harness (6 WEEKS NOW) so the project has been sidelined until that comes in. I'll update once it's back in progress.

 

Well it's been a long time, but life gets crazy sometimes! Over the past several weeks I finally managed to get back to the project, and as of now I have put about 200 miles on the swap so far! A few things to iron out, but overall very happy with the result. Here are some pics of the rest of the build.

The ORS harness came nicely packed, and they found the exact ECU I needed which was great, because I was having trouble finding one myself.

 

By the way, yes it does have a return. It is on the passenger side and blended in with all the evap and vacuum stuff I unplugged. I had to search around the old engine to find where it dumped out.

 

So I began to lay it out and try to understand how ORS had intended it to be routed.



It plugged right into my truck harness as promised.

 

The ECU is much bigger, so It took a little trial and error to get it mounted. I was only able to use 2 mounts, the right (rear) from the 5VZ, and the bottom left (front) from the 3VZ, but with a little tweaking both lined up with the original mounting holes.

 

I got everything more or less where it had to go. At this point I was still waiting on the igniter and several vacuum valves, so I didn't really know where to route a few of the wires yet.

 

Brake booster and heater core/valve routing.

 

Then back to fabrication to finish the exhaust. After 2 1/2 months of this project I really started slacking on the camera work, but here's an idea of the job.



I bought a set of mandrel bent tubing off Amazon. It was pretty inexpensive for what I got. You could literally clamp together an exhaust system with these, but I prefer them welded.



Downpipe tacked on.



I love these flex sections. They go in every exhaust I build now!



The catalytic converter flanges I was able to salvage from the old exhaust. Cleaned up and fitted to the new hardware.



Forward section complete with O2 bung welded inn




This was the last exhaust picture I took. The back half tacked together. This day turned into a very late night. I had already had the truck running at this point and it was my ride home, so documentation fell by the way side.

 

I wound up changing my mind about swapping the battery to the driver side, so I had to extend a few wires around the front of the radiator from the ORS harness, and just installed a short intake pipe with a cone filter. So far this setup is working perfectly.




And of course, the resistor on the back of the tach. I was a bit nervous about this but it went pretty well. The tach does indeed work after this mod.

 

And here it is! I have yet to do the hood cutout, but it rides fine in the safety latch for now. Also, I ditched the old rotted out bumper. In search of a new one at this point.



I couldn't be happier with the end result! The power difference over the old worn out 3.0 is astounding, she keeps up with my 2003 Suburban now.
Many more mods to come in the future, I can see this will be a never ending endeavor, but the excitement I had when I bought this in my early 20's has returned!

 

Nicely done.
Lemme ask: the heater hoses, are those the 3.0's all, or are some pieces from the 3.4? Did you buy new?

And how did you fasten down your fuse box? I can't seem to figure that one out. Hopefully later today I am going to test-fit the mostly assembled motor down onto the motor mounts to see how things are going, but helping my daughter do yard work down in Centennial. I had totally redone my harness, and its not 100% 'factory replacement' looking like ORS'es. So while the motor is there, I need to note where I need to make tweeks in fitment. And thinking I want to make a test lead to check pin one on each injector back to the "B" plug. I had failed to do a real flex/continuity check.

 

Only the hose direct from the valve to the heater core is original. For the rest I bought a bunch of hose sections from napa that looked like they had the right bends, then cut them down to fit.
I never touched the fuse box, it's original from the factory. That was a nice perk of using the ORS harness.

 

Oh yeah. I see that! I always assumed those were 'zactly like the 94-5 4runners. Fusebox mount bracket search underway!
/aside I see your cruise unit looks to be a vacuum type! Interdasting. /endaside

Thanks a bunch.

 

Got around to cutting out the hood today. Now the search for a scoop begins...

 

I got my cowl induction scoop here:
http://www.racecomposites.com/scoops.htm

And, of course, the toyotafiberglass option, http://toyotafiberglass.com/Truck.htm

 

Thanks Numbchux I'll give them a look.

 

Yes it's vacuum/electric. I haven't got around to hooking it back up yet, but I did just install a throttle body that can accommodate it.

 

Awesome work.

do you know if the power steering pump and pulley AND the alternator from the 3.0 can be used on the 3.4?