Elvota

Well, it has begun. Even though my 3.0 has never failed me... it has let me down in terms of power and MPG. I did a lot to it, and plan to transfer what is compatible to the 3.4 accessory wise. I am looking forward to being able to complete some road trips with a little more authority in the passing lane.

Donor motor: 3.4 out of a 96 4Runner, 5spd.

There are some mighty good writeups already here on YT with plenty of detail. Mt. Goat (link) and Breknraj (link) are just a couple of shining examples that I plan to have guide me.

There will be a few things different with my swap however that may help others.

1. I have an SAS
2. I have dual cases courtesy of Marlin and their various adapters (23 spline throughout)
3. I plan to use headers
4. I plan to wire it myself (but have ORS bookmarked should I fail )
5. I plan to do a custom filter/ intake similar to what I built for my 3.0
6. No supercharger
7. No bodylift (hood, meet cut off wheel... cut off wheel, meet hood )

I'll keep this thread updated... but my progress will be slow. Just starting to tackle the wiring at this point. I will then do some maintainence on the 3.4 such as timing belt, water pump and anything else that's easier to do with the motor out of the 4Runner.

On with some pics. Current 3.0 that is now in the way



Donor motor:



Electrical spaghetti



I have dowloaded basically the entire manual for the 96 4Runner from TIS (link) and have already found the $10 a day charge more than worthwhile.

So... wish me luck...

I am also looking for suggestions on sparkplugs, wires, air filter (cone type, not stock), oil filter, additional mods or anything that I might be missing. By the way, I have no plans to tear down the motor and do internal upgrades at this time. I will run it stock for a year or so, and then think about getting some more performance if I feel the need.

I did already have one wiring question... but didn't want it to get buried here. (link)

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Steve: Looks like you have got your work cut out for you. Good luck with it. After seeing some similar threads it makes me wonder if it would be possible to swap a 3.4 in my '81..probably more work than I am ready for, maybe a 2.7.

How many miles on the Donor engine and were you able to get the ECU etc from donor vehicle? The Spaghetti looks colorful...

Elvota

I do not have an exact mileage on the motor... guessing over 100,00 though. But with 235,000 on the current 3.0, I can't complain. Funny, some non-Toyota people I meet don't know why I am so stoked to put a motor with 100,000 miles on it in my truck.

I did get the ECU and all the accessories with the motor. Majority of related components as well.

neoworm0

subscribing. Good Luck with the swap!

mt_goat

Subscribed and may the force be with you.

In answer your question about air filtering, I'd try to find one of these to fit your cone holder:
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx

I wonder if since you have an SAS if you couldn't just keep the 5VZFE oil pan and dip stick?

fillsrunner4

Looks good however was the harness cut? the pic of the 3.4 looks like you had to lable all the wires yourself. I know how that must have been if you did that. I used a AEM dryforce intake cone on mine. I also added a oil filter relocation kit so i could add a bit more oil just a thought.

MT goat i think i even with the sas it would be wise to add a 2wd t100 pan. the best place i have found for this was Sky Manufacturing. comes with pan, dipstick, and pickup tube. I can tell if i kept the stock pan it would hit.

Good luck and cant wait to see some more pics.

Elvota

It was cut. I had no luck finding a 3.4 in my area, I must be a bad detective. It really hasn't been that hard putting things back together... and I have learned a lot about automotive wiring in the process. Electrical has always been a mystery to me, so I am using this as a learning experience. This is of course assuming I did everything right. Guess I won't know that for sure until I turn the key.

I will most likely use the pan and related from my current 3.0 as that clears all the SAS stuff without issue... and is much cheaper than Sky.

My goal is to keep the entire project under $2000, and then reduce that a bit by selling the 3.0 after I am done. Guess we will see.

fillsrunner4

Have you found the plugs to match that ecu? this was my problem but theres a guy here who helped me track down the part number if you need some ill send you his info if you want.

Its alot of wires but its actualy pretty easy once you start diy.

Elvota

Even though the harness was cut, I made sure to grab all the related wires and plugs. So, I have everything... just need to get it all back together.

I think I have the harness about 95% reconstructed... so next step will be mechanical. I am hoping to start tearing things apart within the next few weeks.

fillsrunner4

sweet thats good you were able to get the plugs.

Keep us informed on your progress and good luck

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Under $2k...that will be much better than the 3.0

breknraj

Welcome aboard, Elvota!

It sounds as though you will have a seriously bada$$ set up, once you're done!

If your 3.0 oil pan fits well around your SAS, then you should be golden using that on the 3.4 - it will end up in exactly the same place. My donor had a K&N intake system on it, when I got it. I re-used the intake pipe and related hose hook ups, but I swapped the filter for a TrueFlow. It has been a great set up, for me (and getting about time to clean it - I've put about 10,000 miles on the beast, since the swap!)

Feel free to PM me, if there is anything that I might be able to help you with!

Elvota

Thanks for the votes of support.

It is my understanding that the 3.0 and 3.4 blocks are the same. Thus tranny, oil pan, accessory and engine mount compatibility.

What reasons (if any) would there be for my current 3.0 headers not to work/ fit on the new 3.4?

My hope is that they will, and save me some coin... but I know Downey and others list headers specifically for 3.0 and 3.4 applications. If just a difference in routing, my SAS may rescue me again with some additional clearances where the IFS wouldn't have them. Guess we will see.

fillsrunner4

they are completly different heads so the headers will not work

mt_goat

X2, not even close to fitting.

Elvota

Have you ever had one of those days where your brain just let's you down? Why oh why did I think the headers had anything to do with the blocks being the same.

Sure hope my gray matter starts firing on all cylinders soon or this swap is surely doomed.

fillsrunner4

you can do it. trust me we all see those days. the blocks are very similar but not exactly the same. Keep researching and gather as much info as you can. its not a hard swap to do and theres plenty of help on this forum and others.

RobD

I had a cross-over custom made for mine that comes right off the factory exhaust manifolds. They used 2 1/4" pipe (if memory serves) because anything larger, in their opinion, probably wouldn't make much difference on a V6. Except take up more space behind the block, that is. If you're getting one built, have them build it as tight to the back of the block as you can, following the curve of the bellhousing. They did this with mine and it came down darn near dead perfectly centered between the frame rail and the transmission. Looks almost stock.

I've got tons of power, too, with it. It turns 33's at highway speed with no problem. I can maintain speed on 8% grades. I can pick up speed if I downshift. Stuff that was only fantasy with the 3.0.

Another good site is www.andrewzook.com

Elvota

Okay... finally getting started on this project.

Since the kitchen ReDo was slowing me down, I figured I might as well post a few pics. Few small things left, but I just was itching to get this swap under way.

Before:


After:


Turned out well IMO, at least we are really happy with it. Now, back to the task YT is interested in...

Elvota

First on the list for the 3.4 was to replace the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, idler bearings and possibly the water pump.

Timing belt kit (TS26271) from Parts Dinosaur:


Sparkplugs and wires from Sparkplugs.com:


Has to make a ESS (Elvota Service Tool ) for the crank shaft pulley to get the bolt out and install later:


Basically two lengths of 1 by 1 square tube welded to a piece of pipe I had sitting around. Then two 3/8" bolts drilled and welded in the proper position to match the CS pulley. Worked really well. Got ton's of leverage for removal and install. Could really crank that bolt. The one on my 3.0 came loose before (my fault) so I was glad to have this additional torque provider

After struggling with the timing marks for a bit, I got the belt on. The water pump had no signs of leaking and span smoothly. I had bought one from Parts Dinosuar, but it wasn't Aisin (Rock Brand) and the one currently on the 3.4 was Aisin, so I left it alone for now. This may be something I regret down the line... but I guess time will tell.

I ended up replacing the center top idler bearing as well as the one on the tensioner. Both felt a little loose and came with the kit.

Getting closer:


Don't have many pictures from there, but feel I did get a lot accomplished today.

Pulled the 3.0 ECU and got the harness pulled into the engine bay.
Disconnected most of the wiring, etc. from the 3.0 so I can pull it tomorrow.
Removed exhaust from headers back.
Dropped the tranny (that's a monster with dual cases and the rear heater hoses)
Removed the 3.4 oil pan (will be using the pan and pickup from the 3.0)
Removed 3.4 exhaust manifolds (will be running headers)
Took the flywheel down to get turned.

As I tore into the 3.4, there were no surprises. Spark plugs all looked fine and no sludge evident in the oil pan. Seems like the previous owner took decent care of the motor before the vehicles demise.

The goal tomorrow will be to pull the 3.0 and tackle a few maintenance items I have been wanting to do once the engine bay is free and clear.

Question:
Does anyone know if the 3.0 and 3.4 alternators are compatible? I'd like to keep my upgraded 3.0 alternator for the 3.4. I have heard that you need to swap the IC regulator on the back of the alternators, but I am not clear on this. I don't want to overload the ECM or cause other problems.