When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What ECU are you running? Part number or vehicle application will be needed to help diagnose.
What is it actually doing? Does the starter engage and turn the engine over when you turn the key? Does the starter turn over but the engine just doesn't fire?
What ECU are you running? Part number or vehicle application will be needed to help diagnose.
What is it actually doing? Does the starter engage and turn the engine over when you turn the key? Does the starter turn over but the engine just doesn't fire?
Key turned and starter is triggered, I have fuel, and spark, power to injectors, etc. Wiring guru I've got helping me says it's the immobilizer, but he has no idea how to disable it or bypass. Donor is a 2000 4runner limited. I attached only photo I have of ecu on my phone. I'll get a better one later when I'm at truck.
Ok, I don't have any experience with the immobilizers myself, mine came from a 1997, but my understanding is that all of the Limiteds came with an immobilizer. I don't want to discourage you, but I don't recall reading anywhere where anyone was able to disable or bypass it, it seems most have bought a new ECU from a standard (non-Limited) SR5.
Ok, I don't have any experience with the immobilizers myself, mine came from a 1997, but my understanding is that all of the Limiteds came with an immobilizer. I don't want to discourage you, but I don't recall reading anywhere where anyone was able to disable or bypass it, it seems most have bought a new ECU from a standard (non-Limited) SR5.
Yeah that's what I'm finding. And it looks as though all the plugs are different for non limited (or at least the 97ish I looked at, at the local auto wreckers.) So if I get new ecu I'll have to re do all my work :/
Last edited by ClintonP929; 08-09-2016 at 10:12 AM.
When I bought my swap engine the donor was a 2000 4Runner Limited. And for that reason that you are dealing with is one of the main factors of why I put in a '98 ECU. I got the plugs from an earlier model Runner from the junkyard and just repinned them to fit into the '98 ECU. Its not that big a deal and the earlier ECU's are more abundant and far cheaper. Just search Car-part.com to get the one for your application.
When you get there, here's a good thread that I put together that covers the connector manufacturer's part numbers (so that you don't have to go through a Toyota dealer and pay their markup): https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...umbers-292321/
When I bought my swap engine the donor was a 2000 4Runner Limited. And for that reason that you are dealing with is one of the main factors of why I put in a '98 ECU. I got the plugs from an earlier model Runner from the junkyard and just repinned them to fit into the '98 ECU. Its not that big a deal and the earlier ECU's are more abundant and far cheaper. Just search Car-part.com to get the one for your application.
Bud
Ok so I'm getting really sick of seeing more truck sitting there with 3.4 and not going anywhere. Nothing is working out as far as tracking down original 4runner. So I'm going to grab the ECU and plugs from another one from junker. I believe the closest one is a 96, is re pinning easy? Because obviously motor harness and body needs repinning, hoping it's as simple as black with green tracer to black with green tracer for example. So I don't need to spend the 30 bucks to get access to TIS to get diagrams for another year.
Okay update time. Got computer from a 1998, plugs are different as suspected. Gotta re pin EVERYTHING. That's OK, I've compared the 2 and made a nice spread sheet (this took hours) so when I go to re pin I just need to look at my print-out to find what pin does what and goes to where. I'll share this file I made when I am done.
Okay update time. Got computer from a 1998, plugs are different as suspected. Gotta re pin EVERYTHING. That's OK, I've compared the 2 and made a nice spread sheet (this took hours) so when I go to re pin I just need to look at my print-out to find what pin does what and goes to where. I'll share this file I made when I am done.
Yes. Assuming you were comparing the EWDs for both to generate your list, and not just looking at the plugs and comparing them, you should be OK.
Having repinned my connectors far more than I'd like to admit to, remember that the connectors are numbered as if you are going to plug the connector into your eye (they're numbered from the front, not the cable side, meaning the cable side will be numbered backwards of the EWD diagram). I truly hope that you bought new connectors, because every time I had to repin mine, the connectors came out a little mangled after removing the wires and I wouldn't feel comfortable reusing them.
Yes. Assuming you were comparing the EWDs for both to generate your list, and not just looking at the plugs and comparing them, you should be OK.
Having repinned my connectors far more than I'd like to admit to, remember that the connectors are numbered as if you are going to plug the connector into your eye (they're numbered from the front, not the cable side, meaning the cable side will be numbered backwards of the EWD diagram). I truly hope that you bought new connectors, because every time I had to repin mine, the connectors came out a little mangled after removing the wires and I wouldn't feel comfortable reusing them.
Yeah I found someone who had access to EWD's to get me a copy of the 98 wiring diagram, and I made the list based off comparing the 2000 to the 98. And I know the pins are reversed, it was confusing the heck out of me at first trying to figure out why everything seemed off, but I figured out that it went from the plug side not wire.
I plan to actually repin tonight, if I don't like how it looks ill go buy new plugs, I hope its alright, getting tired of tracking down parts for the swap.
Also thanks for your help, your replies have been super handy!
Last edited by ClintonP929; 08-26-2016 at 10:50 AM.
In a perfect world new everything is in order. I have repinned several different vehicles and have yet to have found any boogered connectors. They will be fine. After all, how many times do you think the originals got R & R'ed anyway??
In a perfect world new everything is in order. I have repinned several different vehicles and have yet to have found any boogered connectors. They will be fine. After all, how many times do you think the originals got R & R'ed anyway??
Bud
Good news is I got the truck to start last night, so freaking happy. Bad news is it starts and runs for 2 seconds then shuts off. Still some random wires left that I couldn't find in my diagrams, hopefully they are in the files you send me, gonna check those out this morning.
Here is what it looks like plugged in and in its running state. Still lots to clean up but it runs!
And for my problem the other night when she wouldn't stay Alive, apparently the MAF was different from 98 to 2000, I had to re pin all the centre wires, then found both the ground and the switched power where not working, ran new wires for both and it runs great now without shutting off! Pics to follow, gotta clean it all up tonight
Well she starts! And runs really good from what I can tell, not choppy idle or anything. So I tried to go for a test drive, I put it in gear and it don't move! Move maybe a couple inches and stops, still running but won't move any further. Any ideas guys?
Won't move in forward or reverse? Will it move if you put it in 4WD? You did remember to fill up the transmission with fluid didn't you? I'm sure you did but just checking. It may be something to do with your shift linkage since it's not quite in the same location as it was before.
Won't move in forward or reverse? Will it move if you put it in 4WD? You did remember to fill up the transmission with fluid didn't you? I'm sure you did but just checking. It may be something to do with your shift linkage since it's not quite in the same location as it was before.
Yes the tranny fluid is full, wouldn't have started it otherwise. I adapted to gear drive transfer case that is missing shifter so I plated it off, in what I thought was 2 hi, but could be wrong, defiantly moved when out of truck. Gonna try hard to track down a shifter so I can test this. And I don't believe it's linkage I did use the 3.4 shifter, and you can feel when it changes gears, as I said it moved a couple inches in each gear.
Yes the tranny fluid is full, wouldn't have started it otherwise. I adapted to gear drive transfer case that is missing shifter so I plated it off, in what I thought was 2 hi, but could be wrong, defiantly moved when out of truck. Gonna try hard to track down a shifter so I can test this. And I don't believe it's linkage I did use the 3.4 shifter, and you can feel when it changes gears, as I said it moved a couple inches in each gear.
Ok, I'm a idiot. It was tranny fluid, I filled it before it ever started but now after running it I see the level dropped significantly. Topped her up and I was able to drive it around the block!
What did I learn? I need a 1 peice drive shaft, the truck wobbled baad, I figured I would after I noticed my steady bearing no longer lined up and I needed to re drill if further back as close to centre as I could figure. So to avoid the headache I'm just getting a 1 peice made.
Also! Back to the no move thing, I still don't have reverse? It don't reverse at all, all forward gears work good, but reverse feels like neutral even though it's not in neutral gear.
Ok, I'm a idiot. It was tranny fluid, I filled it before it ever started but now after running it I see the level dropped significantly. Topped her up and I was able to drive it around the block!
What did I learn? I need a 1 peice drive shaft, the truck wobbled baad, I figured I would after I noticed my steady bearing no longer lined up and I needed to re drill if further back as close to centre as I could figure. So to avoid the headache I'm just getting a 1 peice made.
Also! Back to the no move thing, I still don't have reverse? It don't reverse at all, all forward gears work good, but reverse feels like neutral even though it's not in neutral gear.
I'm really not sure there is a single answer to this question. Some manufacturers will claim they engineer a two piece drive shaft to eliminate vibrations and harmonics, but in reality, a one piece would have worked just fine. Personally, I believe that many manufacturers just use whichever shaft it can get the best deal on from their suppliers at that given time. Most european manufacturers use elaberate two piece drive shafts behind transmissions that have a rubber disk to absorb shock and no slip joint. These shafts are often not serviceable in the field at all. When center bearing or u joints wear out, the drive shaft must be completely remanufactured. While these methods may or may not provide a quiet and smooth ride, I personally believe they use them to increase the cost and complexity of the replacement part, therefore insuring future service business.
I would venture to say that just about any vehicle used for none offroad applications and with a slip joint front (transmission) yoke can be sucessfully converted to one piece, as long as the basic principles of laying out the shafts are followed and corners are not cut. There are plenty of websites that have all the information required to do it and its critical that every step is followed carefully.
As regarding cars and pickup trucks, I really don't believe that there is a magic number that becomes too long for a one piece drive shaft. As long as the shaft yokes have all been phased in properly, the shaft balanced correctly, and the proper shaft diameter and metal thinkness has been used to meet the application's critical speed formula, even a 70 plus inch shaft should perform well at or below highway speeds.
However, for most mass produced cars and light trucks, the parts required to replace high wear/mileage two piece drive shafts and the labor costs to install them are likely much less than the cost of a custom made or high performance one piece shalf, so the benefits of the one piece shaft may not justify the cost, especially for non high performance needs. Of course, this call it up to the individual.
I agree that if some shop it attempting to talk you out of the shaft you want, these are not the people you want doing the work on your shaft for you. Run, don't walk away from them. Do your homework on driveshafts so that you can make an informed choice as well as understand which shops are making sense when they are presenting you with options..or lack of opinions...and which can't or won't do the work you want.
Last edited by 69sixpackbee; 09-08-2016 at 08:29 AM.
I'm really not sure there is a single answer to this question. Some manufacturers will claim they engineer a two piece drive shaft to eliminate vibrations and harmonics, but in reality, a one piece would have worked just fine. Personally, I believe that many manufacturers just use whichever shaft it can get the best deal on from their suppliers at that given time. Most european manufacturers use elaberate two piece drive shafts behind transmissions that have a rubber disk to absorb shock and no slip joint. These shafts are often not serviceable in the field at all. When center bearing or u joints wear out, the drive shaft must be completely remanufactured. While these methods may or may not provide a quiet and smooth ride, I personally believe they use them to increase the cost and complexity of the replacement part, therefore insuring future service business.
I would venture to say that just about any vehicle used for none offroad applications and with a slip joint front (transmission) yoke can be sucessfully converted to one piece, as long as the basic principles of laying out the shafts are followed and corners are not cut. There are plenty of websites that have all the information required to do it and its critical that every step is followed carefully.
As regarding cars and pickup trucks, I really don't believe that there is a magic number that becomes too long for a one piece drive shaft. As long as the shaft yokes have all been phased in properly, the shaft balanced correctly, and the proper shaft diameter and metal thinkness has been used to meet the application's critical speed formula, even a 70 plus inch shaft should perform well at or below highway speeds.
However, for most mass produced cars and light trucks, the parts required to replace high wear/mileage two piece drive shafts and the labor costs to install them are likely much less than the cost of a custom made or high performance one piece shalf, so the benefits of the one piece shaft may not justify the cost, especially for non high performance needs. Of course, this call it up to the individual.
I agree that if some shop it attempting to talk you out of the shaft you want, these are not the people you want doing the work on your shaft for you. Run, don't walk away from them. Do your homework on driveshafts so that you can make an informed choice as well as understand which shops are making sense when they are presenting you with options..or lack of opinions...and which can't or won't do the work you want.
Thanks for the novel! For real, thank for that information. I haven't even talked to any shops yet, I came to the conclusion of converting to a 1 peice without even talking to any shops, just what I figured from my own research.
08-09-2016, 09:42 AM
