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So after all the time and money to go with auto trans and getting it running and driving, I thought, why am I keeping it auto when I really want manual? I mean I've done so much so far why stop. A buddy with a parts 3.0 4runner said he will sell me everything I need for 60 bucks. Any tips? What's required? Pretty set on the idea now.
Funny! I was just reading back over your thread because I just bought my donor truck and was thinking about using the auto from the donor in place of my manual. I'm sure we have a lot of the same questions.
Oh and might as well give an update on the wiring. Picture from last night when I was working on it. About a dozen wires left to either figure out what they do and connect them or get rid of. Runs and drives good as it is, I still got to get my hands on a obd2 port to wire in. And clean it up, trust me this rats nest looks a little better in person.
Picked up the tranny last night. 60 bucks, he included pedals, booster, and the lines going to transmission, sorry for my lack of proper naming I'm not a mechanic.
So that's awesome. Today I got the transfer case pulled, and got 90 percent through getting tranny off then had to go to dinner.
Last edited by ClintonP929; 11-19-2016 at 01:54 PM.
3.4 transmission out. So I got a 3.4 flywheel, tor use with my 3.4 starter, if I buy a 3.0 clutch kit, everything should just bolt together right? Just want to make sure that combination will work.
3.4 transmission out. So I got a 3.4 flywheel, tor use with my 3.4 starter, if I buy a 3.0 clutch kit, everything should just bolt together right? Just want to make sure that combination will work.
I don't know about the 3.4 flywheel with 3.0 clutch kit combination; I would suggest spending the few extra dollars and buy a 3.4 clutch kit, but make sure you get a 3.0 throwout bearing (this must match the input shaft/transmission).
I don't know about the 3.4 flywheel with 3.0 clutch kit combination; I would suggest spending the few extra dollars and buy a 3.4 clutch kit, but make sure you get a 3.0 throwout bearing (this must match the input shaft/transmission).
Thanks for input. I will buy the 3.4 kit then, Id rather do it all right and with better parts the first time! Got a 3.0 throwout with tranny, but pretty sure shes shot, gonna get a new one anyways.
Made some progress today, man pedal installed, and clutch master cylinder and hard line ran.
Clutch kit should be in Thursday, and then I can finally wrap up my swap hopefully! Only took about 3 months
Today I got the truck running with the 5 speed transmission mated. Pretty stoked on the progress. Had a couple problems here and there but getting through, had to order new transmission mount for crossmember because local auto wrecker doesent have any. Should be here Tuesday! Anyone know if my driveshafts will work? Or do I need to find a set originally from a 5 speed? I don't have any of my original trannys so I can't measure and see what was longer. Also put a brand new starter in while I was at it, and I ran the line down to slave, used old brake lines I had laying around.
I went with all 3.0, flywheel, clutch, throw out, and pinion bearings. It was just cheaper and I'm kinda on a bit of a budget, lots of money sinked into the swap at this point.
At this point I got in and pretended to be driving her. I was stoked and I am finally seeing light at the end of this long tunnel.
Best part is as soon as I had this all hooked up I jumped in cab, turned the key and she came to life instantly. And she purrs. Running a 98 automatic ecu, I made sure that it would run without the transmission with auto was still in, but still nice to put it all together and it just works.
Hey congrats on getting all the major hurdles tackled. Seems like an extra big job making the switch from auto to manual, with all the extra bits that you must think about in terms of interior placement and adding on all the hydraulics. How has your overall experience with the wiring been? Do you have any loose ends to tie up?
That is a funny sticker on your starter, "do not strike with hammer", well if they wouldn't stop working and that being a quick get you home fix.. I wouldn't have to!
Ok, I'm going grey over this damn swap. One issue after another. got everything connected, but now I've noticed my clutch isn't working at all. I've bled the line probably 56 times and I'm certain all air is out of system. you can clearly see the slave push the fork, and looks like the right amount, comparing to other people's trucks. Ah! I even pulled the tranny and took it all appart, making sure it was all done right a tourqued to spec. Any ideas?
To be clear 3.0 flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pinion bearing, and starter.
Can you push the fork by hand and make it work? Did you backbleed the system or just fill it at the master and bleed it at the slave?
Defiantly can not be engaged by pushing with hand. How does one back bleed? I just did 2 man bleed and used a 1 man bleed kit that was able to get more air out.
Good news! Decided to try making a longer push rod. One in middle the one I made, left came with new slave cylinder and the right is one that came with slave attached to transmission.
The push rod I made and posted above worked great! Buttoned her up and got insurance last night. Been driving around today (put about 25kms on it) and everything seems to be working fine. Seems to like to sputter, and defiantly is not very powerfully, could this be caused by rear o2 not being connected?
Last edited by ClintonP929; 11-01-2016 at 04:51 PM.
500km update. Truck is running and driving ok still. I even went for first trail run.
I say it's running ok because it still doesent quite run optimal, if I step on it the power just cuts off and if I drive it before she's 100% warmed up she likes to sputter. I went out and picked up a obd2 to wire in and find the codes I'm throwing.
Looks like maf sensors is shot. Or is different from 98 - 2000.
I did notice the maf is wired different between ecu year and motor year. and I did re wire it to work. and that made the truck run much healthier but still doesent have the power it should. But here is what the obd2 is telling me.
I documented the installation of the obd2 and put it on YouTube here for anyone interested. https://youtu.be/C9rddAYr9nQ
Last edited by ClintonP929; 11-15-2016 at 09:07 AM.
Turns out there is a bug difference between the MAF from 2000 and the 98. Since I'm running the 98 cpu on my 2000 motor I swapped out the MAF for the 98 and she's running amazing! Like holy cow the difference is great, put a huge smile on my face to just turn the key and she roars to life without needing to give her gas, and the power is awesome too! Fells just like our 96 4runner with the the 3.4, so like she should! Makes me so happy to drive and not have any issues!
98 MAF on the left and 2000 on the right, huge difference.
See? No more MAF codes, I'm going to have to live with tranny codes because I'm using a auto computer. O2 codes because the rear isn't even connected (don't have the parts), idle one I'm not sure of and going to have to look into it! But for now at least she runs right!
Hey congrats on getting all the major hurdles tackled. Seems like an extra big job making the switch from auto to manual, with all the extra bits that you must think about in terms of interior placement and adding on all the hydraulics. How has your overall experience with the wiring been? Do you have any loose ends to tie up?
That is a funny sticker on your starter, "do not strike with hammer", well if they wouldn't stop working and that being a quick get you home fix.. I wouldn't have to!
Hey! So sorry didn't notice your response till I read over my thread. The manual swap part of it was actually pretty easy, the pedal bracket to mount the clutch pedal is the same as the auto, you can actually look at it with auto stuff installed and see where to drill the holes, and thats what I did, drilled it out while auto pedals still installed, and after that everything was bolt up. Had to take my dremel and cut out floor a bit for the shifter to work in all gears, and had to plate a huge gap on left where the auto linkage was, but nothing to difficult, then had to find a center piece to cover it all, my color doesn't match, but ill address this after winter.
Wiring was not bad at all, even with all my issues, if you take your time and study the diagrams they will make sense.
09-27-2016, 08:24 PM
