Well, figured I'd start a thread here, since it's finally in the chassis. You guys have all helped me out a ton with your threads, figured I'd start my own since I'm sure I'll have more questions trying to get this thing running. But here she is!

My buggy/runner is a little different from everyone else's swap since because I don't need all the creature comforts to work. I'm hoping to have the engine running stand alone, all I need is for the tach/oil guage to work, and for it to start when I turn the key. (Noted for later wiring).

Originally a 1990 4runner, motor is from a 96' T100.

While on the stand, I did the HG, cleaned up the heads and a new timing belt.

Budget part comes from this so far I've made a bit money on this swap. Bought the motor for CHEAP, complete. I and was able to sell my longblock 3vz for more than what I paid for the new (to me) motor with everything. I'm not trying to do it on a budget, but so far it's worked that way.

On with the pics!

Here is what it's going into...


Today started out as:


Then we were able to get it bolted up!




New oil pan will now require a bend to the panhard bar. (3vz didn't)


The mess that gets to be cleaned up.


Hoping to have it together and running by the end of the month! Ready for another season.

 

Also, did they ever have v-belt pulleys on the 5vzs? My steering pump is a v-belt, and I can't find a serp pulley for it. Any input on that?

 

No v belts on 5vz that i'm aware of. I'm running everything from the 5vz as far as accesories. What oil pan are you using? 3vz pan swaps over with pick up or pick up a t-100 2wd pan

 

This might help: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...5vz-fe-216234/

 

that probly wont help him since he's changing the pulleys to keep his pump.

 

Hmmm, yeah, I'm wanting to change the main pulley to a v-belt on front. My old 3.0 was v-belt on the front. Does the main pulley interchange between the two motors? Unfortunately, my main pulley went with the 3.0 because I couldn't get the crank bolt off while it was hanging off the stand. DOH!

 

Hey CGuava, I think I met you briefly at this year's Colorado 4Runner Jamboree. You probably won't remember me since I didn't have my rig out there. As a matter of fact, that weekend I had an electrical fire on my way there, which is what started my swap! Anyway, I don't remember what part of CO you're from but let me know if you need any help along the way. It looks like you've got a pretty good handle on this stuff. But if you need a hand wrenching, or just want to see how somebody else did something, I can definitely help with that. I did a '96 T100 motor as well, but I put it into a 1980 pickup.

Anyway, looking good so far! I love the red valve covers!

 

3.0 pulley should swap since the 3vz and 5vz share a crank

 

No, they don't.

However, the pulley MIGHT swap.

 

Cool, well I guess I better find a new pulley somewhere. They look very similar, indexed/keyed the same way, however I need to make sure the timing marks would match, or at least remember if they aren't.

Quick Draw, I remember something about an electrical fire last year, I'm in Castle Rock, where is Bellvue, CO? I'd definitely like to take a look at your setup to figure out some stuff if you're close.

 

Dang, I missed this. How would I know if my T100 motor was a 2wd pan? It looks as if it'll fit. I actually kept my 3.0 pan to use for this, but read that the T100 pans work also and put it in. FWIW, the sump is in the rear of the T100 pan. Only thing causing issue is the front of the 3.0 pan had a slope upwards which I matched with my panhard bar, this one is straight across and I think it's close enough that it should hit.

 

Bellvue is about 20 minutes NW of Ft. Collins. My girl friend is from the Springs though, so we pass through Castle Rock somewhat regularly. Actually we might head down sometime next week since we will both be on Spring Break from CSU. I'll let you know about when, and maybe I can arrange to take my truck. I was kind of wanting to hit up Patriot pretty soon anyway. So that might work out.

Every body told me I would need a 2WD T100 pan too. But I was talking to ekj over on COTTORA who also had a T100 4x4 donor into his 3rd gen SAS pickup. He said his hysteer and everything cleared just fine with the original oil pan. Mine is tight, but it seems to clear also. I'm going to move my front axle forward like 1/2" just for a little more clearance too.

Although now that I look at your pictures, you have a whole different thing going on with your suspension. Is that pic at ride height? Or do you have the suspension stuffed? Your panhard bar is forward of where my drag link lands. So the above paragraph is probably invalid in your case. I would bet that you will just have to bend it or rework the suspension around it.

 

Oh, I read that wrong.

Not sure about the pulley. I used the pump that came with my 3.4. Made it a lot easier.

 

I wish I could use the stock pump. Unfortunately, I can't, and that is due to the fact that I have full hydraulic steering, the stock pump just can't keep up.

 

Take a pic of your pan. I could tell you if I see it.

 

So, I didn't realize I needed any plugs off the body harness. Can anyone tell me where the plugs are that I need? I guess I need to two plugs that plug in from the body harness to the engine harness.

I didn't pull this motor/harness, so I'm not entirely sure which plugs they are. Can anyone help me out?

Are the 3.4 body harness plugs that I need universal? Can't find any 1996 t100's to pull part the harness from around me. Will all 96-99 5vzs use the same 2 plugs? I'm getting ready to have a friend build the conversion harness for me.

 

You need IE1 and IE2. I personally had a hell of a time trying to find a plug that actually fit mine. Somehow mine were slightly different than the majority of Tacomas and 4Runners out there. And I never did find a T100 in a yard. So finally, I just gave up and spliced it without a plug. There are only a handful of wires that you will need to input from your body harness, so it's not like you really need it.. If you really want it to look "factory"...which is a stretch in your ride...go ahead and find those plugs. Otherwise, just forget about them.

The one thing you will need is the E4 plug into the ECU. While it plugs into the ECU, it is attached to the body harness. I also had trouble finding that one. The only place I could find one was at Jims, but he wouldn't sell me the plug unless it was attached to the $100 harness. Maybe you will have better luck convincing him... Supposedly, if he has a harness that is already damaged he will cut off plugs. Fortunately a member on this board had one laying around for me that worked perfectly for me.

The plugs change around a lot through the years I discovered. Even if they look extremely similar, they move around the pins, and sometimes won't even plug in.

You could have the harness built. But truthfully, if you go wire by wire and then wrap everything up later, it's pretty easy.

 

I was able to order connectors from dealer for a few of the swaps i've done. Take a pic of the ecu, plug side and i'll see if I can order one for you. You will most likely need the pig tails for it as well.

 

Alright, finally have time to post up the pics of the ECU and two plugs.

First is my ECU and side pin/out.





Two engine harness plugs from the 3.4 engine harness. I've got the 3.0 body harness (BH) and Engine harness (EH) and the 3.4 EH, so I just need the two plugs from the 3.4 BH.



Thanks for your help Vital. Let me know if you can source them, I'm going to try from my end and see if Yoda Jim's will let me pull them myself.

Also, I read somewhere a time back that the 1996 T100 had part of the VSV harness in the body harness, if so, I don't have that either. I did have a couple plugs that didn't have a home when I put the motor together this past weekend. Any input on that? I read it somewhere, but can't find it again, need to confirm.

 

Yes, this is true for the evap VSV. The other VSVs should all be there however. If you check your EWD, you will see that the evap VSV plugs into your body harness through either IE1 or IE2. So you will have to source that thing. I think it was only like $15 or $20 from Jim's and he was nice enough to mail it to me after a phone call to them.

The only plugs that didn't go somewhere on mine were 2 little tiny plugs; one on each side of the engine. I think they had a pink wire or something. I still have no idea what they are for.