96' T100 3.4L motor question
May 27, 2012 | 11:45 AM
#21
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From: Washington
First off, which "starter wire" are you talking about? The 2 gauge wire from the battery or the smaller 14-16 gauge wire from the ignition switch to the ECU to the starter solenoid (casually called the "starter trigger wire")?
Easiest first; the 2 gauge main power wire (ORS calls this the "battery harness") bolts to the starter and is wired directly to the battery with no fuse. If making a new one, use 5'-6' of 2 gauge (OEM) or larger (1ga, 0ga, 0/1ga, 0/2ga, etc) wire with a 3/8" terminal. The starter will pull 1.4KW, 1,400W and at 12V is about 120A when cranking, don't skimp here.
The starter trigger wire, on the other hand is a "signal" wire that provides just enough current to engage the starter solenoid, maybe an amp or two (complete guess regarding the actual current) and to provide a 12V signal to the ECU (guessing again, maybe as much as 100mA [0.1A]) letting it know that the engine is attempting to start.
On my '91 4Runner this was a B (black) wire that went from I14 pin 1 (ignition switch's ST1 pin) to the starter relay (M/T), from there it "turned into" a B-W (black-white) wire that went to the COR and to IH1 pin 22. From IH1 pin 22 I spliced it to the ECU's STA pin (E8(D) pin 11 for a 96 4Runner, 4x4, M/T ECU) and to a wire that would run directly to the starter solenoid to engage the starter. The starter itself has a 1 pin connector (which you should source a mating connector from either your donor's body wiring harness, a junk yard, or try to buy new from Toyota) that the 14-16 gauge starter trigger wire attaches. You may want to check to see if the 3.0's starter trigger wire's connector will mate with the 3.4's to save some headache.
This is all based off memory from about a month ago, and I don't have my swap running yet so I may completely wrong, but it makes sense to me.
Good luck and if I managed to further confuse you, post back and I'll try to explain it better.
Easiest first; the 2 gauge main power wire (ORS calls this the "battery harness") bolts to the starter and is wired directly to the battery with no fuse. If making a new one, use 5'-6' of 2 gauge (OEM) or larger (1ga, 0ga, 0/1ga, 0/2ga, etc) wire with a 3/8" terminal. The starter will pull 1.4KW, 1,400W and at 12V is about 120A when cranking, don't skimp here.
The starter trigger wire, on the other hand is a "signal" wire that provides just enough current to engage the starter solenoid, maybe an amp or two (complete guess regarding the actual current) and to provide a 12V signal to the ECU (guessing again, maybe as much as 100mA [0.1A]) letting it know that the engine is attempting to start.
On my '91 4Runner this was a B (black) wire that went from I14 pin 1 (ignition switch's ST1 pin) to the starter relay (M/T), from there it "turned into" a B-W (black-white) wire that went to the COR and to IH1 pin 22. From IH1 pin 22 I spliced it to the ECU's STA pin (E8(D) pin 11 for a 96 4Runner, 4x4, M/T ECU) and to a wire that would run directly to the starter solenoid to engage the starter. The starter itself has a 1 pin connector (which you should source a mating connector from either your donor's body wiring harness, a junk yard, or try to buy new from Toyota) that the 14-16 gauge starter trigger wire attaches. You may want to check to see if the 3.0's starter trigger wire's connector will mate with the 3.4's to save some headache.
This is all based off memory from about a month ago, and I don't have my swap running yet so I may completely wrong, but it makes sense to me.
Good luck and if I managed to further confuse you, post back and I'll try to explain it better.
we'll see. pictures of the "connector" would be great. also, isnt all that wiring between the ignition, the starter relay and the COR already done?
Last edited by Austin Marr; May 27, 2012 at 08:16 PM. Reason: wanted to add to my message
May 28, 2012 | 08:37 PM
#22
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 736
Likes: 1
From: Auburn/Sacramento, CA
Great info. yes i am talking about the trigger wire. sounds like i need some wiring diagrams :/ anyone know if the "chiltons" manual wiring diagrams work just fine? i've just read that you dont go off of someone elses "pin" number or whatever cause it wont be the same.....maybe i can..i dont know. and no i dont want a cricket farm we'll see. pictures of the "connector" would be great. also, isnt all that wiring between the ignition, the starter relay and the COR already done?
we'll see. pictures of the "connector" would be great. also, isnt all that wiring between the ignition, the starter relay and the COR already done?Correct, don't assume that someone else's pin numbers are the same as yours...unless you find someone who has the EXACT same donor motor as you, year, model, body style (single vs ext cab), 4x4 vs 4x2, and M/T vs A/T.
My advice, spend the $15 for a 48 hour subscription to TIS (https://techinfo.toyota.com) and then spend a couple hours for a couple nights downloading everything you can from your donor and your recipient truck: EWD (Electronic Wiring Diagram), Repair Manual, and any of the extras they offer that could be fun. Other's have suggested downloading the adjacent years also, which could be useful but I was lucky and was able to do everything with just the two sets.
Watch the tutorial videos before you sign up, the site can be a bit confusing to navigate, but the tutorials really did help.
With all the money you have spent (or will spend) on this swap, that $15 will be one of the cheapest things you can buy from Toyota, yet will be the most useful. And as been said before, you can't study those wiring diagrams enough.
May 29, 2012 | 05:05 PM
#23
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Washington
I can't help you with any useful information about the chilton's guides, but my gut feeling is that they wouldn't be able to provide the detailed info that you would need.
Correct, don't assume that someone else's pin numbers are the same as yours...unless you find someone who has the EXACT same donor motor as you, year, model, body style (single vs ext cab), 4x4 vs 4x2, and M/T vs A/T.
My advice, spend the $15 for a 48 hour subscription to TIS (https://techinfo.toyota.com) and then spend a couple hours for a couple nights downloading everything you can from your donor and your recipient truck: EWD (Electronic Wiring Diagram), Repair Manual, and any of the extras they offer that could be fun. Other's have suggested downloading the adjacent years also, which could be useful but I was lucky and was able to do everything with just the two sets.
Watch the tutorial videos before you sign up, the site can be a bit confusing to navigate, but the tutorials really did help.
With all the money you have spent (or will spend) on this swap, that $15 will be one of the cheapest things you can buy from Toyota, yet will be the most useful. And as been said before, you can't study those wiring diagrams enough.
Correct, don't assume that someone else's pin numbers are the same as yours...unless you find someone who has the EXACT same donor motor as you, year, model, body style (single vs ext cab), 4x4 vs 4x2, and M/T vs A/T.
My advice, spend the $15 for a 48 hour subscription to TIS (https://techinfo.toyota.com) and then spend a couple hours for a couple nights downloading everything you can from your donor and your recipient truck: EWD (Electronic Wiring Diagram), Repair Manual, and any of the extras they offer that could be fun. Other's have suggested downloading the adjacent years also, which could be useful but I was lucky and was able to do everything with just the two sets.
Watch the tutorial videos before you sign up, the site can be a bit confusing to navigate, but the tutorials really did help.
With all the money you have spent (or will spend) on this swap, that $15 will be one of the cheapest things you can buy from Toyota, yet will be the most useful. And as been said before, you can't study those wiring diagrams enough.
BA. stay tuned! guranteed more questions to come. thanks for your help guys!
Jun 3, 2012 | 08:44 PM
#26
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Washington
Ok so the dufus that cut the exhaust off for me while i was working on pulling the motor from the donor hacked right into the O2 sensor 
. so am im able to use the single O2 sensor thats on my 3L right now? then just use the one good one of the two O2 sensors off of my 3.4? also, on the exhaust on the 3.4 t100 there was a sensor in the front and rear of the cat......do i now have to run one on the rear side of the cat and leave the one from my 3L in place? help would be greatly appreciated guys! thanks so much!
. so am im able to use the single O2 sensor thats on my 3L right now? then just use the one good one of the two O2 sensors off of my 3.4? also, on the exhaust on the 3.4 t100 there was a sensor in the front and rear of the cat......do i now have to run one on the rear side of the cat and leave the one from my 3L in place? help would be greatly appreciated guys! thanks so much!
Jun 4, 2012 | 09:35 AM
#27
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Idon't think you can actually. Check oreily's etc and see if the same o2 sensor is compatiable between the models years. I believe they are different though.
The o2 sensor in the rear of the cat measures cat performance and will throw a code if it's not there for rear o2 sensor heater circuit. I have that o2 sensor plumbed into the exhaust stream but it's before the cat and I haven't gotten a code in a few weeks for it, and it got rid of the o2 sensor heater circuit code.
The o2 sensor in the rear of the cat measures cat performance and will throw a code if it's not there for rear o2 sensor heater circuit. I have that o2 sensor plumbed into the exhaust stream but it's before the cat and I haven't gotten a code in a few weeks for it, and it got rid of the o2 sensor heater circuit code.
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