FINALLY!!!! i was able to pick up everything i need from the same rig for the swap! 4wd oil pan already installed dipstick already in needed location brand new 3.4 OEM clutch BUT i got a question. The title of the truck said it had 266k on the motor. the dash said 163K on the motor. i dont know what to believe but supposedly its had a rebuild done already to it. either which way, do i fully rebuild it while its out and my 3L runs fine with new head gaskets and no top end or bottom end noise or do i just swap it out and hope it lasts for another 100k before it needs a rebuild? before we pulled the motor i heard it start and run. sounded great, idled great and throttle response was EXCELLENT! (cant wait to ditch the 3L) so what do you guys think? im not made of money so the motor would probably be sitting for about a year or possibly longer if i fully rebuild it. thoughts

 

If the compression is good I'm not sure I'd dig into it, other than timing belt tensioner and water pump etc.

 

The early T100 is an excellent candidate for 2nd gen. swap. Especially if you plan to do SAS also. The oil pan and dipstick is in the right place. The wiring harness is longer than 4runners, I believe. The body mounts fit right up. No need to grind down anything.

 

I'd run it as-is... but I'm super cheep

 

I wouldn't do anything. Just stab it in there.

 

the 85' solid axle is sitting right beside the motor in the shop thanks for your guys' input. anyone know the compression???? also i saw pics of the rebuild kit for the t100, does the t100 3.4 have a timing chain!??? a majority of all my friends i've asked to rebuild or run it they've said run it. i think im gonna run it!!!

 

The 3.4 use timing belt which has to be chage at 60-90K miles. I'd change it before you drop it in. It's easier to do it while it's sitting on the engine stand. If it's a stick shift, change clutch while you're at it. It's not that much more.

 

No, the 3.4L 5vz-fe has a timing belt.

OP, the speedo cluster probably died and was changed out thus the difference in mileages.

 

ya i bet the speed cluster was switched out. is the 3.4 an interference motor??? where can i find compression specs?

 

The 3.4 is not an interference motor. I think I remember seeing that 170psi is acceptable in terms of compression but I'm not completely certain.

 

Use the FSM link in my signature to find a FSM that will have everything you need spec wise.

The 3.4L 5vz-fe is a non-interference engine. Some timing belt companies incorrectly list it as an interference engine.

 

right on thanks for the useful info. stay tuned for the swap!!!

 

hey does anyone know if the heat shield on the crossover pipe be cut off? i was planning on powdercoating it after its all welded up

 

Just undo the fold with some pliers.

I dont know that I would powder coat it. Ceramic coating maybe but it should be fine with nothing.

 

well i'd like to add the extra protection to the welds and for better protection on the tranny and firewall.......i mean they put a shield on there for a reason. plus my buddy can powder coat it for free and i did end up taking off the shield and all my cuts are good and im ready to weld the cross over. just need to get some welding wire. dntsdad: rebuild or run it?

 

well i've decided to run the motor as is. just replace the timing belt, plugs, oil/filter, and possibly water pump and t-stat. welded cross over and made battery box! super easy to do the crossover. i put 3 passes over my first weld to ensure no leakage and solid structure. most guys would say thats overkill but i'd rather overkill then have a cracked or rusted out weld in such a tight space. had a couple of questions for you guys:
1. Should the exhaust gaskets be replaced coming out of the headers and where the down pipe connects?
2. I need help on wiring. I've read tons of threads including the "sticky" ones on wiring theory and 3.4 swap 101, both AMAZING write ups and super helpful. However i need clarification on where to terminate the starter wire on the starter. I know the information is out there but its hard finding the exact answers that i need answers to.
3. True or false, the only wiring thats involved with this sway is the starter-ECM, the C.O.R-ECM, Battery power wire from fuse box to battery, then i have to solder my 3.4L 22 pin to my 3.0L wires' dash harness that was plugged into my 3vz 22pin port? or something like that....

 

When you said you replace the timing belt, I hope you also changed the tensioner bearings and water pump too. They go hand in hand.
You should replace the gasket now. It's gonna be a PITA to do it after the motor goes in the truck.....
I'd wired the starter to the battery directly. That's how it's done stock.
The wire is from IE22 ....I think.

 

I was just planning on the timing belt and inspecting the tensioner bearings. i havent replaced the ones on my 3L in 100k, no noise and smooth. i figure if these ones are smooth when i take the old t belt off i'll just pass. water pump is probably a good idea though. when you say starter to battery isn't that whats already done? or do you mean run a 14ga from IE22 straight to the battery? thanks anthony1, read your write up, good job

 

Hmmm. All the Toyota mech. I talked to said to change the tensioner bearings while I'm at it. since I expect it to go atleast 70K-90K before taking it apart again. Are you betting that the po changed it at the last timing belt change? If not, you're talking about expecting the bearings to go 163K plus 70-90K more? Maybe you like cricket farm under the hood.....I donno......

I may have misread your post....if you're planning to wire from the starter to the Batt then that's the right way. I forgot where the 14ga from starter goes to....

 

First off, which "starter wire" are you talking about? The 2 gauge wire from the battery or the smaller 14-16 gauge wire from the ignition switch to the ECU to the starter solenoid (casually called the "starter trigger wire")?

Easiest first; the 2 gauge main power wire (ORS calls this the "battery harness") bolts to the starter and is wired directly to the battery with no fuse. If making a new one, use 5'-6' of 2 gauge (OEM) or larger (1ga, 0ga, 0/1ga, 0/2ga, etc) wire with a 3/8" terminal. The starter will pull 1.4KW, 1,400W and at 12V is about 120A when cranking, don't skimp here.

The starter trigger wire, on the other hand is a "signal" wire that provides just enough current to engage the starter solenoid, maybe an amp or two (complete guess regarding the actual current) and to provide a 12V signal to the ECU (guessing again, maybe as much as 100mA [0.1A]) letting it know that the engine is attempting to start.

On my '91 4Runner this was a B (black) wire that went from I14 pin 1 (ignition switch's ST1 pin) to the starter relay (M/T), from there it "turned into" a B-W (black-white) wire that went to the COR and to IH1 pin 22. From IH1 pin 22 I spliced it to the ECU's STA pin (E8(D) pin 11 for a 96 4Runner, 4x4, M/T ECU) and to a wire that would run directly to the starter solenoid to engage the starter. The starter itself has a 1 pin connector (which you should source a mating connector from either your donor's body wiring harness, a junk yard, or try to buy new from Toyota) that the 14-16 gauge starter trigger wire attaches. You may want to check to see if the 3.0's starter trigger wire's connector will mate with the 3.4's to save some headache.

This is all based off memory from about a month ago, and I don't have my swap running yet so I may completely wrong, but it makes sense to me.

Good luck and if I managed to further confuse you, post back and I'll try to explain it better.