RobD

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1458763

Took a while through the whole Google curse...er, search engine. This is the best I could find.

You'll have to read through the personal attacks and BS to find the right answer, but it's in there somewhere.

screamer76

thanks, robd. the page is on my favorites now. i tried google before posting on here last weekend, but i lost my patience after the first few links didn't pan out. gotta work on that

RobD

Yeah, that's where my frustration came in, too. Took a few different attempts. I'm probably just going to run the single electrodes again. I haven't had any problems for the last 40000 kms. Time for new ones, though, I'd imagine.

screamer76

maybe i'll go with the single electrode plugs next time. since i already have the others, i'm just going to put them in.

well, last week started frustratingly slow as far as progress on the project, then just a bunch of stuff happened all at once. i haven't had a chance to upload new photos yet, so for now just the details.

i went back last sunday night and installed the hydraulic tensioner and then loosely installed the timing covers to keep dust out of the case. i need to replace the seal because part of it came off of the fan bracket. does anyone know if this also a fipg?

thursday i clocked out at lunch time and went to take a closer look at the fuel supply and return lines, which turned into me "flipping over" the supply line and grinding off one of the bolt holes on the return bracket, buffing the sharp edge off, and bending the other bolt hole tab so that when i installed it on the back of the plenum it tucks itself underneath. nice and out of the way while still being accessible if the lines need to be changed later on. with a little bending in the right places, it even points in the right directions!

saturday, i went to the shop with no real clear idea of what i was going to do. my earlier plan for the day was to drill the new dipstick hole, but i had begun to feel a little insecure and was considering the ors guide. i'm over that now, but that day i ended up sitting down with the engine, my notes for the 3.4 wiring, and my multimeter. i tested for continuity from the ik2 connection to the various components that i had the wires labled for. turns out i was right about all the stuff i had mapped out, and i solved the few remaining mystery wires. so, i'm feeling a lot more confident with that part of the conversion now. i also had made arrangements to meet up with the guy who i had talked to about welding my exhaust, so that he could tell me for sure if he was going to do it and discuss details. wednesday after work i'm going to meet up with him so he can weld it up for me. him agreeing to do it was a big weight off my shoulders since i had no real backup plan if he couldn't. so saturday was a good, productive day imo.

YESTERDAY THE TUMOR WAS SUCCESSFULLY REMOVED FROM MY 4RUNNER! that's right, my baby's cancer free! i discovered once the 3.0 was out that i had a small rear main leak. the bottom of my bellhousing had a layer of sludge that i guess must have been soaking up the oil and keepin it from showing externally. i've been wondering where my oil was going i knew i wasn't burning it. i had to take off pretty much as soon as the engine was out, but i went back today and pulled my release bearing, pressure plate and clutch. the bearing was close to being the worst bearing i have ever come across. it rolled for a second and then just totally bound up(hence the squealing for the first few minutes whenever i cold-started it). when i pulled the pressure plate and clutch disc one of the springs from the disc just fell out, and the disc itself was so worn that the holes where the rivet heads are were gone. the whole surface was flush with the rivets. i think i actually might have stretched that out to it's last working day!

today i clocked out at lunch time and cut the flanges off of the crossover jason4x4 style. so the double flange is still attached to the short pipe, the crossover to manifold flanges were completely removed, and the pipe that does the actual crossing over the back of the engine is now flangeless. jim asked me to wait on cutting that pipe until he could take a good look at it and make sure of where he wanted it cut.

i have to go eat dinner with the family now. maybe i'll get some pictures on tomorrow.

RobD

Well done. It's amazing when you see that you're actually making progress and not just banging your head against an unforgiving brick wall.

Too bad I don't have any time off, otherwise I'd love to escape the bizarre snowfall we're in the middle of to come help you in sunny Tucson.

hrdted

Screamer, I've been watching your thread. Good to see that your making progress. It sounds as though you're going through the same process I have. Its never fast enough! I just wanted to share what I did as far as building my adapter harness. I used a big poster board and mapped out all my pinouts on the engine side and the body harness side. It really helped me when I went to actually build the thing. Hope this helps you along.

RobD

Now that's a hell of an idea. I had a spreadsheet for mine. But your visual works very, very well.

hrdted

Thanks Rob. Its nice to talk to people who can appreciate the process. I'm 80% planning and 20% doing.

screamer76

lol. it would be great to have someone who's done this for company, but then there would be two of us waiting for something to happen...

hrdted, seeing those pictures was like walking out of a cave and into full daylight. i've been trying to do this with notebook paper and it was working out okay, but tomorrow i'm going to get some posterboard. i'd post some pictures of my attempt to keep this in perspective, but i am actually embarrassed and after redoing everything i'm going to burn the evidence. in other words, thanks. that was very helpful.

i dropped off my flywheel to get ground today, and resumed drilling the dipstick hole. i didn't have enough time to finish, but i think i'm about halfway. i'm still going to try and post some pics tonight, but it may have to wait.

screamer76

on my way to toyota right now to pick up the last of the parts i need to be able to put in the 3.4. then i'm off to the shop where i'm going to try and drill out the rest of the dipstick hole, tap the old one, switch the pans(and pickups), and get the 3.0 motor mounts put on the 3.4. i'm dropping it in tomorrow, and towing it home sometime before monday.

i'd like to leave the 3.0 ac system intact. i'm guessing it will fairly obvious what needs to be modified on the bracket to make it work, but i'd like to hear from anyone who has done it this way. is it even necessary to switch to the 3.0 bracket?

gotta run

screamer76

alright, i've been pretty busy the last few days and haven't been able to add photos. i'm going to do this in segments, starting with the removal of the 3.0 last weekend.

oh yeah, the 3.4 is in!

here's a picture of a 500lb.( guess?) tumor about to be removed from the patient


and post-operation


the "engine", if you that's what you'd call it.


one of the ways i justified this swap was the impending failure of my clutch. if you've ever mic'd a disc to see how much life it has, then you know that you measure the depth of the rivet holes. well, here you can see that there weren't any holes left at all. when i removed the pressure plate, my pilot bearing just fell out, along with one of the clutch disc springs. the throwout bearing was almost completely seized.


yesterday, i accepted a deposit on my 3.0. the new owner should be picking it up tomorrow. i got rid of it for $600. i know i probably could have gotten more, especially since i've had five responses to my ad in three days, but i really just wanted it gone and done with. so that means that this swap has so far only cost me $500! i'm guessing i'll spend somewhere around another $200 before i'm ready to start it. plus i still have the 3.0 ecu, air flow meter, alternator, ignitor and coil, vsv's, etc. to sell along with the 3.4 cruise actuator/ecu, and radiator.

i'll try to post some more pictures of the engine mods and crossover tomorrow.

RobD

Well done. Well done, indeed.

Hope you got the oil pan and mounts off it before you sold it!

screamer76

lol! thanks, rob. and yes, i did grab the pan and mounts, as well as the oil pickup. i had to cut off one of the legs on the pickup just like you said. thanks for the heads up on that because i would have been alot more hesitant to do that otherwise. i couldn't see any other way of fitting it on there, so i don't know how other guys are just straight swapping them.

also, if you look closely, you can see that i did indeed leave the 3.0 alternator wiring harness alone. thanks for the heads up on that as well.

well, the 3.0 is gone, the money is in my pocket, the 3.4 is in and my 4runner is back at home! still have to order the power steering hose from ors( which is the only ors item i'm using) and still have alot to do. we basically put in the bellhousing to engine bolts, the motor mount bolts, and connected the fuel supply line so i wouldn't be leaking gas the whole way home. however, i feel like the hardest parts of this swap are now over, since i at least don't have to worry about drafting in other people. now i just have to figure out what i want to do next!

nothing today, that's for sure!

screamer76

here are the pictures of my fuel line modifications. the first shows both lines routed to the passenger side of the engine


in the second picture you can see more clearly how the return line now tucks under the intake plenum. i bent the tab that is showing to accomplish that, and then cut off the remaining tab and buffed off the sharp edge. some gentle bending pointed the tube in the right direction.

RobD

I used my stock 3.0 power steering hose. Why do you need a new one?

screamer76

i didn't think i could so it went with the other engine

RobD

Ooooooh...yeah, I see where that might be a problem.

Not to rub it in, but... http://www.andrewzook.com/content/view/22/48/1/10/

I did the same...hit mine up with the grinder and voila. Just make sure you use the right power steering fluid. If memory serves, it calls for ATF. I used PS fluid and evidently the steering box seals don't like it.

screamer76

oh well. the ors hose isn't that much, and then i won't have to worry for a while. and i've got plenty to do while i wait for it

RobD

Yep. You still need to relocate your battery to the driver side. Did you do the tach mod yet?

screamer76

i'm thinking about trying to find a replacement dash pad first, so i may just leave it with no tach. that won't mess with the ignition circuit will it?