thanks, rob. you've been a great help to me. still got a couple of days before i can drive it, though. no power steering hose and my downpipe is at jim's shop waiting to be modifed. i did put it in gear and moved it back and forth a little to make sure there aren't any problems with the clutch. got to go, but thanks again, man.

 

I knew I'd trick someone else into doing this swap if I waited long enough.

 

Elvota,
I'm sure you're thread has gotten more than a few people to do this swap. Myself included. I was just going to rebuild the 3.0 for my son but after reading you thread (compounded by my inability to leave things unmodified) I decided to do the swap. I'm positive you have inspired many.

 

That's pretty funny.

My GF (and others) know me enough that I can claim if anything, and I mean anything, can be modified... I'll modify it.

Glad to hear I am not the only one with such an affliction.

 

thanks, buddy! guess i missed your post last night. congratulations on your's turning over as well! your son is going to love that truck. is he driving it yet?

 

Not yet. I'm having a real fun time chasin' down an electrical short. That's a whole other thread I may start. He's more than ready though. He's gotta fire it up every night and listen to his new Flowmaster. Keep us posted on yours.

 

Hey, I'm willing to let you put me up for a night or two if I'm ever on a road trip down your way!

 

lol. you got it man

 

Congrats on the success, Screamer!

I'm sure that you'll love the difference with this engine in your rig! Be sure to let us know what your driving impressions are!

 

thanks, breknraj! you've all been very helpful throughout this whole swap. there's no way i would have attempted it without seeing how many people had detailed accounts of their experiences.

i'll be sure to keep updating this post with pictures of the work i've done to this point, and the work that remains to be done.

the downpipe mod is coming along, but not as smoothly as it could if the truck, pipe, and welder were ever all in the same place at the same time.

i should have my ps hose tomorrow, so as soon as i can put the downpipe on, i should be able to take it for a test drive

 

Take it for a run with no exhaust and you'll live up to your alias!

 

here are some more pictures

this is where i had stopped and contemplated the ORS drill guide. i'm happy now that i went ahead without it, because i'm having a lot of problems getting my ps hose(partially UPS, mostly not). i probably should have just had one made locally using the 3.4 idle-up and the banjo fitting from the 3.0. or just not given away the one from my 3.0... but i guess i should be grateful that this has been my biggest problem so far. anyway, the picture.


i used a right-angle drill with a size-u bit. although i had intended to drill a pilot hole, i ended up just using a spring-activated center punch to center the hole and that worked out fine for me.


i was so happy to have that behind me! new union inserted. the fit wasn't as tight as i would have liked so i used fipg to insure that i didn't have any leaks. between that and the dipstick guide bolts, i'm not having or anticipating any problems.


and the old dipstick hole is now plugged. i used loctite on the bolt and filled in the surrounding area with fipg. again, i'm not having or expecting any problems here.


well, that's it for now. by the time i get to take my first drive, i'll probably be caught up with this

 

i'll be driving it to jim's shop with the downpipe that has been chopped right before the o2 bung( when i have a ps hose). having the two pipes reduced to one has muffled it a little, but it will still be quite loud!

 

I wonder if putting a nut and lock washer on your plug might be a good idea.

Would be a shame for that bolt to back out and end up in the pan.

 

i tapped it from the top. that bolt has a hex head; it's just threaded all the way up. i might replace it, but mostly because i don't like the way it looks. when i put it in, i put a whole lot of loctite and turned it in until it stopped. it would have to break the loctite and turn in all of those threads you see to fall in the pan. a nut wouldn't be a bad precaution though. thanks!

 

i know most of you were able to just bolt on your 3.0 motor mounts, but when i tried to, there was some kind of valve that the 3.4 mounts fit around and the 3.0 mounts didn't. by comparing the two sets of mounts and brackets i could see that the 3.4 brackets sit at a different angle and therefore could not be used. in these two pictures, you can see the area i'm talking about.

notice how the bolt hole won't line up


i couldn't recall ever having seen this particular issue in anyone else's thread, so the only option i could see was to let the angle grinder loose on it.


after dealing with that, i moved on to the ac bracket. the ac bracket shares a bolt hole with the motor mount bracket. the 3.4 motor mount brackets are thinner than the 3.0's, and the ac bracket sits on top of the motor mount bracket. when the 3.0 motor mount bracket is installed on the 3.4, the ac bracket won't fit in to it's place because that bolt hole is thicker than the rest to fill the gap to the motor mount bracket. if you were to install a bolt in that hole only, there would be a gap between the rest of the ac bracket holes and the block. unfortunately, i forgot to take a picture of this, but what i did was grind down the "extra" metal on that one bolt hole for the ac bracket. i compared it to the 3.0 ac bracket and tried to match the thickness of that. once that was done everything fit right into place.

more soon

 

okay, sorry for being dumb, but this wasnt mentioned. why reuse the 3.0 oil pan if the 3.4 has one? and with all the splicing/soldering, why not just swap the harness? thats the way i would do it... am i thinking totally wrong, or am i thinking the hard way? i dunno using the 3.0 oil pan on the 3.4 seems to be the hard way, and splicing the connections seems to me the hard way. why not just use the entire wiring harness from the 3.4?

 

the 3.0 oil pan is made to wrap around the steering linkage. it is a little more shallow in the front than the 3.4. this is also why the dipstick and oil pickup must be relocated. i guess to do it properly you have to switch the baffle plates, which i didn't do, which is why i had to cut a leg off my pickup. no big deal, but if i had switched baffle plates it would have been a straight swap. this is not as much work as it sounds like and neither is the wiring. there are about eight wires that plug into the ecu from the 3.0 body harness. these wires have the wrong ends on them and need to have the right ones spliced on. i unpinned my connectors, so most of the other wires just had to be plugged into the corresponding pin on the 3.4 harness. there is a wire from the starter that gets lost in the change, so that had to be spliced into the starter relay circuit, and a wire that powers various sensors and valves had to be spliced into the corresponding circuit in the 3.0 wiring. again, not as bad as it sounds. when i was finished, i was actually shocked at how relatively easy it had been. of course, it helped that i had everything uncut and from the same vehicle, but still really easy. i imagine alot easier than trying to dig out a body harness, but maybe not for a 22re swap. that i am clueless about.

 

only reason i ask is when i rolled my truck, and swapped cabs, i had to remove the wiring harness. wasnt too hard, seems to me would be easier than splicing stuff and tracing wires.

 

maybe it would be easier on a pickup. for the 4runner, i dunno. i would think that you would still end up splicing proper connectors onto the body harness for your comb. meter and such. my new engine harness plugs into three switches that were left over from the 3.0; the backup light switch,the 4wd indicator, and the add actuator. the backup and actuator switches plugged into the new harness just fine, but the indicator won't. maybe there would be less splicing, but maybe there would be more. again, i don't really know. i'm just happy it runs right now

p.s. if you were switching body harnesses, it would have to be p/u to p/u or 4runner to 4runner. my tailgate has the defroster, window motor, lock. then there's the rear speakers, rear wiper and washer, rear antenna. all of my new stuff came from a tacoma, so i think i actually would have ended up with more splices trying to do it that way.