screamer76

my e5 is in the 2000 ewd and looks nothing like the e5 for 2001

RobD

Are your donor engine and ECU from two different years of Toyota?

screamer76

no, everything is from the same truck. so far, the connector is the only difference i can see from the 2000 ewd's. wierd, but i think i can otherwise follow the 2000 ewd's. however, time-consuming though it may be, i think i'll go ahead and download 1993-1995 4runner ewd's and 1999-2001 tacoma ewd's.

do you remember if ih1 and ih2(4runner dash plugs) were accessible just by removing the ps kick panel and unbolting the ecu? or are these connections somewhere behind the blower motor or glove compartment?

RobD

It's possible your engine is a production run change for that particular year. I'm wondering if anyone on here can shed light on that.

Anyhow, download everything you can, since it's only $10...just make sure they're exactly for your truck and you don't confuse them!

And on my 91, the body harness plugs are behind the passenger side kick panel. Undo the nut that holds it on and you should be able to find it right behind there. The two plugs should be under your ECU.

screamer76

yup, found them. it's going to be cramped working conditions, but i should be able to tag them all while still driving the truck thanks, robd.

hrdted

Screamer,
I'm in the middle of this same swap and have been beating my head on the wiring. Neither my 1990 runner or donor engine harnesses match the Toyota EWD's. What I've found in my research is that both seem to be a mix of production years as far as the actual wiring runs. I still have a few connector pins that don't match anything in the EWD's. I ended up tracing out every wire on both the Runner and engine harness to be sure. Its been a lot of work but I'm finally finishing up my harness as we speak. As far as the connectors, I have personally seen combinations that make no sense when compared to the Toyota FSM. I've been crawling around junkyards in search of th connectors I needed. I have found them but there has some inconsistencies compared to the Toyota information. I hope this helps. I guess my point is....don't take anything you read or hear for gospel. Its going to come down to you going through your set-up and making the call. Good Luck.

screamer76

any advice is helpful and appreciated at this point, hrdted. i hope it doesn't come down to me crawling around the junkyards, mostly because it seems like there aren't very many here that will actually have anything i can use. also, none of them are pull your own part places anymore. there's only one in town that i know of, and the last time i was out there they didn't have any toy trucks at all. the other places all seem overpriced, probably because they have to pay at least one extra employee. i'd probably be better off driving to phoenix, which is 90 miles from here. guess i'll try my luck with the dealership first, and take it from there. if i have to, i'll try to just repin my connectors, but i'd like to keep the 3.0 engine harness intact as it's in really good shape. i need to sell everything i can when this is over.

the discrepancies aren't much of a surprise to me, i guess. still dissappointing, though. sorry to hear about your troubles. good luck to you as well, and let me know how things turn out for you.

RobD

The long, narrow gray one plugs into the back of my 3.4 computer to provide power, ground, etc.

The larger white and gray plugs need to be cut off so they can be spliced onto your 3.4 harness.



This is my 3.4 computer. That long gray plug provides power to the fourth connector, on the right side. The other three plugs are on the 3.4 harness and they stayed untouched.

screamer76

our ecu connections are nothing alike. i'll take some pictures of my plugs and add them to my gallery. as soon as i get some actual FREE time, i'll figure out how to add them to the post. we have a two year old, and are working opposing schedules to keep him out of daycare. so probably 90% of the time that i'm not at work is spent alone with my son. he's an amazing kid, but he makes it impossible to get anything done. as i'm typing this, there are sounds of destruction and utter chaos emanating from the living room.

i think i do have to follow the 2001 overall ewd, at least as far as what connects to the ik2. so far my 4runner's ih1 and ih2 connections seem to match the ewd's, so hopefully that will be pretty straight forward.

screamer76

before removal from donor 2000 tacoma

screamer76

yea!! success. and it was alot easier to get the picture loaded than i thought. i just don't know how to remove the attachment... oh well. here's some more.

this was right after we got the engine to our shop. the electric forklift i was going to use to unload it had a dead battery
you can just barely tell that it had started drizzling during the cross-town trip. i started worrying about the marker i had used to tag the vacuum and electric, so i decided to throw a tarp over it while we waited for the forklift to charge...

which ended up being a good idea since this picture was taken almost as soon as i had walked back inside.

this picture and the next are from right before we unloaded

and this one was on the way home from what actually turned out to be the second to last trip to the donor truck, and not the final one like i thought when i took the picture

i'll have more later. i took pictures of my ecu connections and my ik2 last night, but they haven't been transferred to the pc yet

RobD

Looks mighty familiar.

I don't see it there, so I'm going to ask: did you grab the igniter off the front fender well?

screamer76

yeah, i got it i took some things home on my two prep visits; the igniter was one of them. let's see if i can remember...
1. engine
2. igniter
3. entire air delivery system including maf sensor
4. entire exhaust with both sensors
5. ac compressor
6. power steering pump
7. alternator
8. ecu
9. starter
10. clutch and flywheel
11. entire evap system
12. engine harness(uncut)
13. entire battery harness (also uncut)
14. newish duralast gold battery
15. cruise actuator with control unit and mounting bracket
16. radiator (something else to sell, i guess)
17. obd2 connector

there's a good chance if you see something missing that i remembered to grab it, but forgot to list it... like the fuel system. lol!

Elvota

Nice... now I am getting excited.

RobD

Just another reminder, but do NOT cut or remove your 3.0 charging circuit. I can almost guarantee that the 3.4 harness will be as useless to you as a hot, adult female is to Michael Jackson.

screamer76

haha, i will keep that in mind. when i took everything apart, there was a plugin at the fuse box that my 3.0 doesn't have. i'm guessing if i trace those wires, that the other end will be the alternator plug?
here are some pictures of my ik2 and e5 connections, along with my ecu connectors. by the way, robd, i didn't realize at first that those pictures were of your ih1 and ih2 and e5(if that's what they're called for your truck). well, i knew it was the e5, but your e5 is so different from mine that i assumed they were all ecu plugs. lol.

so this is the dash side of the ik2. the most noticeable difference between this plug and the one in the 2000 ewd are the four spaces for pins in the center. in the 00 ewd, the center is a divider with half of the pins on one side and half on the other. so far, every wire i've tried to trace to a pin from the 00 ewd leads me nowhere. and so far the 01 ewd has proven correct...


this is my ecu with the e5 connector sitting above it's location. you can see the difference is pretty clear.


so i think i have to follow the 2001 ewd for everything that goes through the
ik2, but i have to use the 2000 ewd for everything that goes through e5( that connection matches the 00 but not the 01).

RobD

Yeah, it sounds like they did a mid-year running change on you. If your trace shows you everything is lining up from your 01 EWD, then that's going to be your best bet as a resource.

As for the plug that you found at the fuse block, I honestly don't know what it's for, as I didn't have that.

screamer76

well, i did the timing belt and water pump yesterday. i haven't actually put the hydraulic tensioner back in because i didn't have a small enough hex wrench to set it. that's what i get for not reading far enough ahead in the fsm before getting to work. so, i have to put that back in and the covers, but it is otherwise finished.

today i bought the new spark plugs and thermostat, and that leads to the reason for my post; i bought the standard ngk twin electrode plugs, which i've never had to use before. do any of you know if i can use my round keychain spark plug gapper to set the gap on these? i was hoping they'd be pregapped, but each box says to set gap to manufacturer's specs before installation. is there a special gapper for this plug type?

how many of you would recommend pulling the engine and tranny as a unit like the 95 fsm suggests? i can see benefits to doing it that way, such as mating the engine and tranny back up to each other, and being able to make sure the exhaust has proper clearance from the frame without getting too close the tranny. i am, however, afraid of damaging the body and it seems like the removal and installation would be a much more delicate procedure doing it this way. between that and all of the extra crap that would have to disconnected, i'm thinking i'd rather just deal with the hassle of lining the engine and tranny up in the engine bay and torqueing(sp?) the engine to bellhousing bolts with the firewall in the way. what do you guys think?

RobD

Yeah, I didn't realize they used twin electrode plugs until after I'd installed the single electrode plugs. I didn't bother to pull them out and I've never had a problem with them. Anyone who tries to tell you you get twice the spark out dual electrodes is full of something that smells bad, or doesn't understand how electricity works. All they do is last a bit longer.

Anyhow, I'm one of those guys who did pull his entire engine+transmission+transfer case...so, it can be done. You'd need to pull the fan and radiator, plus remove the gear shift and transfer case lever (after pulling the trim). Then there's the carnage you'd create as you try and drag that much mass over your rad support, because odds are your engine hoist won't go quite high enough. It is definitely a two or three person job.

Would I do it this way again? Man, tough call. I was such a pain in the prostate doing it this way, but you can get to the bellhousing bolts easier. If I were to do another one, I'd probably try and see if I could pull the engine without the tranny.

screamer76

thanks. that's exactly what i was looking for, although with the forklift, clearance wouldn't be an issue. i talked it over with a friend here, and pretty much decided to try and do it without pulling the tranny. one problem with that is i already told the guy that agreed to weld the exhaust that he'd be able to see them put together outside of the vehicle. oh well, hopefully he'll still do it.

still not sure if it's safe to use the gapper i have for the dual electrode plugs. anybody?